Won't Start

Seems the idle control system is not working correctly. During startup, the IAC is supposed to increase the idling speed before settling down and this is not happening. Clean the throttle body and IAC and retest.

If the cold start is working correctly the rpm would be higher than idling speed and that is normal. If the problem is intermittent and not on every occsion that you start up, I would still suggest checking/cleaning the idle controls.

Creaks can be from bushings, especially if they are worn. Other possible causes are ball joints of suspension armas or steering linkages.

If problem was not there prior to struts replacement, recheck the work done. Something could be out of place or not correctly torqued.

Clicking? Or nothing at all? If you hear a click, then either the battery is weak, or the starter, possibly bad battery cable connections, check and clean both ends of BOTH cables! Dissconnect negative(-) first, and put it on last! If no click the starter relay is no good!

Ok so you have the car or does the tow guy have it? If you have it and a have a test light or digital multi meter we can check to see if the starter is getting power if it is then I would say pull it and take it to the parts store and have them test it and buy on if it tests bad. Let me know what you want to do.

The battery cables are now 10 years old, try jump starting the car, if it works, one or both cables are internally corroded, and has too much resistance to allow it to start.

Ok so did or is the engine light on? If not then at this point there is nothing we can check as the problem needs to either be present or the engine light on to tell us what happened. Get back to me and we will take it from there.

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.

Pick your symptom:

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.

No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.