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Inconsistent curb idle and low power at RPMs

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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OK--STILL WAITING TO HEAR FROM COMPANY ABOUT YOUR AXLE INSTRUCTIONS

I MADE SOME PICS ON WHAT YOU ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH

I TOO WAS IGNORANT ABOUT STUFF TOO, I ADMIRE YOUR WILLINGNESS TO TAKE ON THIS BIG TASK AND WANTING TO DO IT TEXTBOOK PERFECT!

HOW AM I DOING TEACHER-WISE?

LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU THINK ABUT THESE PICS---I'LL BE UP TILL ABOUT MIDNIGHT. WORKY AT 07:30 IN THE MORN

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 18th, 2012 AT 1:34 AM
Tiny
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That outer ring just turned out to be the pinion oil seal. I thought I had already removed it but turns out I just pried the rubber inside of the seal out. Axle disassembly is finished. I'm waiting on my shims, bearings, crush sleeve, pinion nut, and marking compound to come in the mail. In the mean time I'll clean up the axle housing and repaint it. My plan is to only replace the bearings on the pinion. The carrier bearings look fine and that's one less thing I have to buy or press. I'll shave off the inside of the old bearings so they slip on and off real easy. That should make it a lot easier as I move the shims around while setting up the gears.

Got any ideas how to get the bearing off of the pinion? Or how to get the races out of the housing? See pic below. I can probably find access to a press if I need one.

Here's a great site I found on how to set up gears. They have lots of other stuff on there too. Very detailed and informative.
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Wednesday, July 18th, 2012 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
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Found the bearings for my one piece axles: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52401_100.htm

The tech online said that both bearing race openings should face towards the differential. That means that not only did Joe-shmoe forget to preload the pinion, but he also installed one of the wheel bearings backwards. Also, it's stupid of me not to replace the carrier bearings so I went ahead and ordered all new bearings for everything back there.

I found a good group of guys who love to help people restore things here in Raleigh They also are willing to do some pressing for me. So we're good to go! It might take me a while to make sure everything is matched up correctly, but we're going to do this rebuild right. And yes, you're doing a great job teaching, Medic. I really appreciate it.
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Wednesday, July 18th, 2012 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
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YOUR FORWARD BEARING SHOULD SLIP OFF AND ON

YOUR REAR ONE WILL PRESS ON AND REMAIN THERE

THERE ARE SHIMS UNDER THE REAR RACE---THESE ARE FOR THE DEPTH ADJUSTMENT

YOU SAID "SHAVE THE OLD BEARING"---I DON'T SEE THE NEED, THE OLD BEARING IS WORN....YOU NEED TO DO ALL OF YOUR "SETTING UP" WITH THE NEW BEARINGS, THEY WILL BE WHAT STAYS INSIDE WHEN YOU ARE DONE

HOW'S THIS?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Up5vZzuq8CM

HERE'S THE COLLAR----THE CHICKEN FOOT PIECE CAN BE A STEERING WHEEL PULLER OR A HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER

"HARBOR FREIGHT" WILL HAVE A CHEAP CHINESE VERSION OF BOTH TOOLS

I SHOULD BE UP AGAIN THIS EVENING TILL MIDNIGHT IF YOU WANNA CATCH UP

I DID THE EXACT SAME THING WITH "WILLY", I KEPT SAYING, "I'M IN THIS FAR, HE DESERVES THIS NEW ITEM".....I SAID THIS OVER AND OVER FOR TWO YEARS.....UNTIL HE WAS AT THE TOP OF LIST IN MY "INVESTMENT PORTFOLIO"!

I AM SENDING YOU MORE ALBUMS--IN A FEW MINUTES---SOME OR ALL MY WIND UP IN YOUR SPAM, SO BE ON THE LOOK OUT!

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, July 18th, 2012 AT 6:41 PM
Tiny
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THIS IS SORTA WHAT I WAS TALKING ABOUT. AT ADVANCE AUTO

THIS ONE JUST HAS ONE "RIB" ON THE END (WHICH IS FINE!)

THE BARBED ONE HAS MULTIPLE RIBS IN THE N. IPPLE

THIS IS A TAPERED (PLUMBING THREAD)

I BELIEVE YOU SAID THE N. IPPLE ON THE "LIQUID CHECK VALVE WAS BROKE OFF

IF YOU WILL CUT IT OFF FLUSH (A HACKSAW BLADE WILL WORK)

THEN SELECT A DRILL BIT ABOUT THE SAME SIZE AS THE "TIP" OF THIS FUEL FITTING (REMEMBER IT'S TAPERED, THE TIP OF THE THREADS IS THE SMALLEST PART)

JUST BARELY DRILL INTO THE PLASTIC AS NOT TO DRILL INTO THE GUTS OF THE CHECK

IF YOU WILL HEAT THE BRASS FITTING (JUST ENOUGH TO BEGIN MELTING THE PLASTIC---TEST WITH THE PIECE YOU CHOPPED OFF), YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO MAKE YOUR OWN THREADS ON THE PLASTIC, SCREWING THE FITTING IN. YOU NEED ONLY JUST "THREAD" JUST INTO THE BODY

LET IT COOL IN THE PLASTIC---SPRAYING IT WITH WATER WILL COOL IT IT FASTER

GO TO THE KNOWLEDGE BASE.I THINK THERE IS A CT AWAY VIEW SO YOU WILL KNOW WHAT THE INNARDS LOOK LIKE

THIS DOES NOT REALLY HAVE PRESSURE ON IT---YOU JUST DON'T WANT SLOSHING FUEL TO GET OUT

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 22nd, 2012 AT 4:24 AM
Tiny
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Sorry I've been MIA for a while. It's because I've been working on this sucker, and am making some decent headway. I had no idea how hard it was to pull/push bearings and races. The amount of force I've had to put on this axle. Well. Let's just say I might owe someone a new floor.

I'm finally starting the gear setup. This is going to take a lot of time since it's the most involved part of the rebuild and also the most fine tuned. Tried twice today, and both times the markings on the gears (see photo) weren't centered on the gear tooth. I'm getting there though. First time the marks were too high, coast side towards the toe and drive side towards the heal. Second time, exactly oposite but not so bad. Third time's the charm I think. I'll keep you posted.
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Wednesday, July 25th, 2012 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
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I AM SO. PROUD. RATHER EXCITED THAT YOU AND grizzly93 TAKE THIS STUFF TO HEART AND STRIVE FOR PERFECTION!

MOST DIYers WANT TO JUST WANNA "GET BY". MAKE IT GO JUST A LITTLE LONGER.

---"WE"--- WANNA PASS 'EM ON DOWN TO THE GREAT-GRAND-YOUNGINS IN SERVICEABLE CONDITION!

ONCE YOU FINISH THIS OPERATION. YOU WILL BE THE MAN. AS YOUR REPUTATION EXPANDS PEOPLE WILL WANT YOU TO DO EVERYTHING FROM A SEAL TO INSTALLING LOCKERS. YOU WILL STILL HAVE TO "LEARN" THE DIFFERENT AXLES YOU WORK ON.

THE LOCAL AUTO SHOPS WITH "MECHANICS", .I MEAN 90% 0R MORE OF THEM DO NOT GO TO THE TROUBLE THAT YOU ARE. "GET BY".30,000 MILES IS WHAT THEY SHOOT FOR. TAKE THE MONEY AND RUN!

MORE SPECIALIZED SHOPS AND THE OTHER 10% WILL DO IT THE RIGHT WAY. THESE ARE JUST MY OPINIONS, I AM PRETTY GOOD AT JUDGING PEOPLE.I MEAN SCRUTINIZING PEOPLE

I WANT YOU TO PLEASE TAKE MANY MANY MANY PICS OF WHAT YOU ARE DOING, EVEN AS YOU ARE INSTALLING SHIMS, LUBING STUFF, PAINTING, ETC.

IT'S BEEN A WHILE SINCE I BROKE INTO ONE AND "I" HAVE NO INNER DIFFERENTIAL PICS.I NEVER THOUGHT ABOUT TAKING ANY BEFORE I STARTED HERE. WITH YOUR PERMISSION I'D LIKE TO COPY AND USE SOME OF YOURS IN FUTURE POSTS TO AID OTHERS OTHERS.

AFTER YOUR DISSEMBLANCE MIX UP OF THE SHIMS, HOW LONG DID IT TAKE YOU TO GET YOUR SIDE SHIMS BACK IN PLACE IN ORDER TO GET YOUR GEAR MESH RIGHT AGAIN?

FUNERAL FOR WIFEY'S GRANDMA IS TOMORROW MORNING, MAYBE I CAN 2CAR MORE SOON AFTER. AND FIX THE RUST ON MR. JEEP THAT I HAVE BEEN PUTTING OFF SO LONG

AT WORK TODAY.I HAD CUSTOMER WHO JUST COULD NOT UNDERSTAND THAT HIS DEFECTIVE "LIFETIME WARRANTY STARTER" COULD NOT BE HONORED

HE SEEMED REALLY SAD AS HE HUNG HIS HEAD. HE WOULDN'T EVEN LOOK UP

I THINK OUR COMPETITOR CHARGED HIM AN "ARM AND A LEG" FOR SOMETHING ELSE. THEY LET HIM KEEP THE "LEG" AS A "DISCOUNT"

I REALLY FELT SORRY FOR HIM WHEN HE SORTA LOST HIS HEAD BEFORE HE AND HIS DRIVER LEFT

(I REALLY TOOK THESE PICS TODAY AT WORK)

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 26th, 2012 AT 3:58 AM
Tiny
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Haha, what? Poor guy, has to ride around with a creepy headless passenger all day.

It wasn't too hard to figure out which shims to use on the carrier. I just split them 50-50 at first. Measuring backlash isn't that hard to do. I did end up having to reduce the number of overall shims from the carrier stack. Everytime I would put the carrier in place, it would warp at least two or three of the shims because it was such a tight fit. Removed maybe 0.008'' of shims and it fit in there great. No warps but still plenty of preload. The new bearings I installed might be a little bit larger than the old ones I guess.

One thing to note, everytime you change your pinion depth, the backlash changes too. I forgot about this the second time I set the gear up, and there was so little backlash that the gears wouldn't even turn. If someone is ever doing this setup, I also recommend having plenty of crush sleeves. I've already burned through half of the sleeves I bought and am hoping I don't have to buy more.

Also a super import factors is that, when you're checking the gear marking compound like in the previous photo, you HAVE to load the gears. I installed one of the axle shafts and locked up the case gears with a towel and got my roommate to hold onto the hub while I turned the pinion. Should take around 40-50 ftlbs to turn the pinion to get an accurate reading. The first time I checked the gear markings I forgot to load the gears. The second time I did load the gears and it really did make a huge difference.

I'll also be sure to take more pictures.
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Thursday, July 26th, 2012 AT 2:30 PM
Tiny
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ON YOUR END---DO YOU HAVE EVERYONE UP TO SPEED ON WHAT YOU ARE DOING?

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 26th, 2012 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
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Yeah I'll give an overall update. The problem was that my rear axle would whine whenever I would decelerate. I figured it was an issue with the pinion positioning, but I wasn't sure. After trying to cheat, I decided to just yank the whole axle out and do a full rebuild. When I pulled the axle shafts, I was pleasantly surprised to find that someone had replaced them already with one piece axle shafts. That saved me $300. However, one of the wheel bearings was installed backwards.

The whining was because there was ZERO load on the pinion. Once the ring and carrier were removed, the pinion and yoke flopped around with no resistance at all. Now that could have been because Joe-Shmoe didn't do his research and never crushed the sleeve that sits in between the bearings in the pinion. Also, the pinion nut could have simply rattled loose after 80,000 miles.

Either way, I am now replacing ALL of the bearings, repainting the axle housing, cover, and break backing plates, cleaning everything, and reassembling it correctly. I've already done two setups with the differential and am very close to getting the right number of shims. Before I do the last two setups (I only have 4 crush sleeves), I am going to replace all of the bearings. I was using set up bearings so it was real easy to slide them on and off. I plan on having it rebuilt and lubed up by Friday! We'll see if that actually happens.
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Monday, July 30th, 2012 AT 6:19 PM
Tiny
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WELL I SORTA MEANT....DO YOUR HARDCORE...HANG WITH YOU...THRU THICK AND THIN BUDDIES UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE DOING?

YOU KNOW, YOU COULDA HAD A REALLY AWFUL PROBLEM AS THIS FELLER DID

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1979-jeep-cj5-clutch-problems

NOW DON'T THAT MAKE YOU FEEL BETTER???!!!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 30th, 2012 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
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Actually, most of my roommates hate the fact I've trashed their ping pong room and made the house smell like gear oil. One or two of them help out from time to time, but no. Most of them don't understand. A couple of them listen while I explain, but most just glaze over.
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Monday, July 30th, 2012 AT 7:15 PM
Tiny
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LIKE GRANPA USED TO SAY, "JEALOUSY WILL GET YOU NOTHIN'!"

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 30th, 2012 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
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Well crap! As I was smashing down crush sleeve number three (I'm getting good, got the torque at exactly 20 in-lbs), I sheered off one of the bolts that goes into the yoke. Looks like it's time to upgrade from my strap and bolt yoke to a u-bolt style yoke.

http://www.jeeptech.com/axle/aub.html

The ting about working on these older cars is you always end up breaking more stuff than you fix. At least at first...
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 12:54 AM
Tiny
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EXACTLY WHY YOU SHOULD HAVE 'EM MAKE YOU A HOLDING TOOL AT THE HIGH SCHOOL MACHINE SHOP OR TECH SCHOOL MACHINE SHOP

DOWN AT THE WELDING SHOP--A PLASMA WIZARD MIGHT WHIP YOU ONE OUT WITH THE PLASMA CUTTER IN A FEW SECONDS---I DO SUGGEST YOU MAKE THE HANDLE AT LEAST 4 FEET LONG. MINE IS TOO SHORT AND I HAVE BEEN CONTEMPLATING A "2 BOLT-ON" EXTENSION

WHAT DO YOU MEAN "UPGRADE"?

I RECKON 1940 TO ABOUT 1981. WE ALL HAVE "U-BOLTS" ON OURS. THOSE STUPID STRAPS AND BOLTS WERE SUPPOSED TO BE THE UPGRADE FROM LIKE '82 ON UP.I RECKON THIS SOMEHOW GOT AN ENGINEER A NICE RETIREMENT ALONG WITH THE CRAPPY COMPUTER SYSTEM HE CAME UP WITH

THE BEST IMPROVEMENT THEY EVER DID (STARTED IN 1979)WAS UPGRADING THE PRESTOLITE IGNITION SYSTEM TO THE MOTORCRAFT

DOIN' GOOD, KEEP THE PICS COMING!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
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The 300 transfer case was a huge upgrade for later models too. And the fact they didn't offer V8s. Other than that, you're right. Lot's of the "upgrades" turned out to be terrible ideas.

Here's a little photo update. Show's the cleaning and painting of the axle housing. The Por-15 rust preventative system works great. The cleaner is water soluble which means you can dilute it. That stuff burns though, so gloves are a must. The prep and ready will etch the rust, so you don't need a sand blaster. Takes a few days for the paint to harden, but once it does, it's rock solid. Looks pretty sleek too. Finally got around to buying a new CJ-7 emblem plate. Can finally show off her name.

The latest round of gear set up shows the drive side close to the root and close to the toe. Coast side is close to root and close to heel, which means I need less pinion shims and a couple more crush sleeves. At least two more, one for the final set up and one more to check the pattern. I'll probably buy four.

Pics showing where the bolt sheered off too. The bolt that sheered was a replacement Johnny-preowner installed. It's smaller than the other three so no wonder it broke off. That yoke holder works real well though. It's got slots for a 3/4'' and 1/2'' drives, so either my 2 ft or 4 ft breaker bar will fit. That 4 ft bar is a must for crushing sleeves. Takes all of my body weight on it to get it to turn a couple of degrees.
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 5:30 PM
Tiny
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Always make sure you brush your teeth? Get it?
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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BET THE BOYS DON'T WANNA PIC-NIC ANYTIME SOON!

YOUR BROKEN BOLT MAY NOT HAVE ANY THREAD PRESSURE ON IT----A DREMEL TOOL AND A CUTOFF DISC MAY POSSIBLY CUT YOU A SCREWDRIVER SLOT IN IT SO YOU CAN SCREW IT OUTIN REALLY TIGHT SPOTS, I HAVE CHEWED THE CUTOFF DISC DOWN REALLY SMALL, BY GRINDING ON SOMETHING ELSE 1ST---THEN CUT THE SLOT

I LIKE YOUR QUEST TOWARD PERFECTION

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 31st, 2012 AT 9:41 PM
Tiny
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Well one more hitch it seems. Once again. It's almost like the axle knows it's close to being fix but it just doesn't want the fun to be over so it breaks something else. Bent and torqued through the yoke holder. Guess that's what I get for only paying $20. I'll be more careful with the next one.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2012 AT 2:04 AM
Tiny
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Actually wait.I can just pick up a 1/2'' to 3/4'' drive conversion. Duh.
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Wednesday, August 1st, 2012 AT 2:07 AM

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