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Inconsistent curb idle and low power at RPMs

Tiny
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SORTA REVERSE ORDER

THE PARTS STORE USETA HAVE THESE AS RENTALS OR FOR USE IN THE PARKING LOT

Lug-Nut-Remover-Wheel-Lock-Removal-Kit-3pc-CTA
IT'S SORTA A OUTSIDE "EZ-OUT"---LOOKS LIKE YOU CAN GET IT AND SHIPPED FOR ABOUT $30. RENT IT OUT YOURSELF, TO RECOUP YOUR MONEY!

. OR SELL IT TO THE PARTS STORE, SO THEY WILL HAVE A SET!

---WHEN THEY ARE OFF, SLING 'EM INTO THE WOODS AND NEVER PUT ANY BACK ON!

MAGNET IS DOING IT'S JOB---NORMAL SHAVINGS ON IT---I'D SAY YOU ARE GOOD!

OK. LASTLY.I CAN TELL YOU WANNA BE A CHEATER!

IF "I" WANTED TO BE A CHEATER, AND I "HOPED" MY PINION BEARINGS ARE STILL USABLE. THIS IS WHAT I'D DO

REAR ON JACK STANDS---WHEELS OFF----BRAKE DRUMS OFF---DRIVESHAFT OFF AT DIFF END.I'M GETTING RID OFF AS MUCH FRICTION/ WEIGHT AS POSSIBLE

LETS USE AN INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH AND JUST SEE WHAT IT TAKES TO TURN THE "BARE BONES" YOKE--CARRIER---MOST LIKELY ONLY ONE AXLE WILL TURN

(THE PINION BEARINGS ARE SO LOOSE RIGHT NOW, THEY MAY NOT BE COUNTED NOW AS PRE-LOAD IN THIS "TEST PULL"). WRITE DOWN YOUR PULLING NUMBERS AT THIS POINT! IN OTHER WORDS YOU ARE MEASURING THE "EXTRA STUFF" YOU FAILED TO REMOVE. AND THE BEARINGS ARE NOT PRE-LOADED, THEY ARE FLOPPY!

JUST FOR A QUICK FIELD EXPEDIENT BEARING TEST---PULL HARD AND FORWARD ON THE DIFF YOKE (SEATING THE INTERNAL BEARING IN THE RACE) NOW ROTATE IT WHILE PULLING HARD. IS IT SMOOTH OR DOES IT FEEL LIKE IT'S JUMPING LITTLE BUMPS OR RIDGES?

NOW REMOVE THE YOKE--CAN YOU PUSH THE FRONT BEARING REARWARD WITH YOUR FINGERS. HARD! AND ROTATE! HOW DOES IT FEEL?

IF ALL IS/SEEMS GOOD---INSTALL A NEW CRUSH SLEEVE--LUBE THE RUBBER LIP OF YOUR NEW SEAL AND INSTALL IT----INSTALL THE YOKE AND WASHER AND NUT

THIS IS WHERE YOUR MATH COMES IN!

TAKE THE FACTORY TORQUE SPECS FOR THE PINION "TURN-AGE" (LIKE MY NEW WORDS)---PLUS ADD IN---THE VALUE OF TURNING THE AXLE AND CARRIER (YOU WROTE IT DOWN PARAGRAPHS ABOVE!)

(A) FACTORY SPECS WERE TO CRUSH THE SLEEVE TILL YOU GET "X" IN. LBS.

(B) MY IMPROVISED FIELD EXPEDIENT WAY NOW IS TO CRUSH THE SLEEVE TILL YOU REACH "X+Y" IN. LBS.

IT WILL REQUIRE A 3/4 PULL BAR/ A BACK-HOLDING TOOL AND SOME UMPFF!

THIS IS BY NO MEANS SCIENTIFIC. BUT IT'S BETTER THAN GOING IN BLIND!

SOUND PLAUSIBLE?

LET ME KNOW IF YOU WANT TO TALK THIS OVER

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 4th, 2012 AT 2:22 AM
Tiny
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OK got it. Found this.

Differential-Pinion-Yoke-Holding-Tool-

We'll have to guess what the torque will be without the carrier and without the axel in place. Maybe an inch-lb or two. Fortunately we have a window of 5 inch-lb or two. But yeah that makes pretty good sense. I'll yank on the bearings and let you know what I find out.
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Wednesday, July 4th, 2012 AT 3:24 AM
Tiny
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WHY GUESS? PROPER "SPIN-AGE IN. LB. TORQUE" ("X") IS IN MY FACTORY MANUAL---I'LL LOOK IT UP WHEN I GET OFF WORK TODAY

ALL YOU'LL NEED TO GET IS WHAT "Y" 'SPIN-AGE' IS NOW, WITHOUT D-SHAFT/WHEELS/BRAKE DRUMS

I HOPE YOU ARE UNDERSTANDING ALL OF MY SLANG!

I'LL POST THIS AFTERNOON

THE MEDIC
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Wednesday, July 4th, 2012 AT 10:48 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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ALL-RIGHTY THEN

"X" IS 17 TO 25 "INCH-POUNDS" (WITHOUT ADDING IN THE OTHER STUFF)

THAT IS, WITH AN IN. LBS. TORQUE WRENCH (NEEDLE TYPE) TURNING THE NUT/YOKE

THE NEEDLE READING IS TAKEN WHILE THE NUT/PINION IS MOVING---NOT FROM A STANDSTILL START

WHEN YOU TIGHTEN THE NUT TO CRUSH THE COLLAPSIBLE SPACER TO CREATE "PRE-LOAD"---DO IT A TEENY BIT AT A TIME!

YOU MAY WANT TO GET AN EXTRA CRUSH SLEEVE. JUST IN CASE! IF YOU OVER TIGHTEN, BACKING OFF IS NOT AN OPTION, GOTTA INSTALL A NEW SLEEVE AND START OVER

CALL YOUR LOCAL PARTS STORES, YOU MAY BE ABLE TO RENT SOME OF YOUR TOOLS

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 5th, 2012 AT 12:57 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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IF YOUR YOKE HOLDER IS CLOSE TO A 1/4 INCH THICK, IT MAY BE STRONG ENOUGH. MINE IS A 1/2 INCH THICK

YOU REALLY GOTTA PULL HARD WITH A LONG BREAKER BAR TO CRUSH THE SLEEVE. THIS ALSO MEANS THE TOOL ON THE YOKE TOOL WILL HAVE TO BE A LONG LEVER (MOST LIKELY A HEAVY DUTY 1/2 DRIVE BREAKER BAR, OR A 3/4

WHEN I REPLACED MY INNARDS, THE AXLE WAS ON THE JEEP, JEEP WAS ON JACK STANDS---I STACKED CONCRETE BLOCKS UNDER MY YOKE HOLDER SO IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE THAT IT COULD MOVE, WHILE I GOT DOWN ON THE BREAKER BAR. THE STANDS PROVIDED ME ROOM TO PULL FROM UP HIGH UNDER THE JEEP AND NOT BE IN A STRAIN IF I WERE CLOSER TO THE GROUND

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, July 5th, 2012 AT 1:11 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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WHERE'D YOU RUN OFF TO?

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, July 8th, 2012 AT 1:56 AM
Tiny
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4th of July vacation. I'm hopefully going to put the back end on jack stands this afternoon and rip those rusty lug nuts off, take of the drive shaft, and see what I can find out about the pinion bearings by yanking on the yoke.
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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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BE CAREFUL UNDER THERE!

CJs DON'T LIKE BEING SICK AND UP ON STANDS

DID YOU GET A TOOL TO REMOVE THE NUTS?

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
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Not yet. I'm going to soak them in pb blaster and go at em' with vice grips before I buy more tools. If that won't work, I think advance has a set of decent reverse thread bolt removers.
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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 3:33 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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JUST SO YOU KNOW (OTHERS WILL SUGGEST THIS) A BIG HAMMER AND CHISEL USUALLY DOES MORE DAMAGE THAN GOOD!

THE MEDIC
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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
GRIZZLY93
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Hey buddy. I see your having a similar problem that I did with your lug nuts. Medic has assisted me for awhile now, I see he even referenced our work thread. Are your lug nuts round? When I bought my cj it had the lock nuts on them, but no key. What I did was take my 4 way lug wrench and found one that was just slightly smaller and gave it a few whacks on the other end so it fit SNUG around the lug and gave it a quick jerk to break it loose. Once that was done you could work the 4 way so it backed off the lug. Worked good for me.

I havent been on here in awhile, but I can try to help out also. Ive dealt with your carburetor before. I also have a 88 yj with that electronic feedback carb. Just a POS. I swapped to the weber 38 and im not really impressed. All it did was burn more gas and backfires when I hit the gas too hard.

Sorry if im talking about things your already done with, im trying to catch up.

-grizzly
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Thursday, July 12th, 2012 AT 3:22 AM
Tiny
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No problem, thanks for the help Grizzly. The carburetor is good to go. I stripped all of the emissions control pieces off the thing. Runs like a 1979 Carter BBD and it runs beautifully. Right now I'm trying to tackle my rear differential. It whines every time I decelerate. Checked the gears, and they look ok. My thoughts are that the bearings on the coast side of the pinion gear are worn out or the preload on the pinion gear wasn't set right.

Couple of questions - is it possible to pull the tail bearing and race out with the pinion still in the diff cover? I want to fix the problem without having to deal with checking the pinion depth and contact pattern in the differential. Not because I don't want to do the work, but because I don't want to buy the specialty tools needed for it (some are around $500). The tail bearing is what is loaded during coasting, right? So that's potentially the source of the whine. Logic make sense?
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Thursday, July 12th, 2012 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
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You know what? Forget it. I'm going to do this the right way. As soon as I get some free time (probably saturday) I'm going to take the whole rear end apart. I'll clean everything, post pictures, and we can discuss what needs to be replaced. I'll feel a whole lot better about driving her again, and who knows, might even have some fun.
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Thursday, July 12th, 2012 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
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Axle is off. Torqued the head off of one of the eye-let bolts for the leaf springs, probably bent the heck out of another one trying to hammer it out. Is there an easy way to remove leaf springs? I did want to redo the suspension at some point, but I don't think I can afford it just yet. Also I don't want to pull the front axle off at the moment. Going to pull out the axle shafts and take a look into the diff and bearings soon. Now that it's indoors, the sky's the limit. Sure wish I had a garage.
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 3:08 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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I'M GLAD YOU ARE MOTIVATED!

THIS IS SORTA AN INEXPENSIVE TRICK TO USE

A REGULAR OLE PROPANE TORCH IS BETTER THAN NOTHING--IT HEATS SLOW BUT MAY ALSO HEAT THE INNER PART (BOLT) WHICH NEEDS TO REMAIN AS COOL AS POSSIBLE

A OXYGEN/ ACETYLENE RIG IS BEST, AS IT WILL HEAT STUFF UP REAL FAST AND EXPAND THE NUT ETC---LEAVING THE (BOLT OR WHATEVER) COOL AND UN-EXPANDED)

I'M A PLUMBER. WHAT YOU SEE IN THE PIC IS A "TURBO TORCH" IT CAN USE PROPANE OR MAPP GAS. THIS TORCH HEAD BOUGHT LOCALLY IS ABOUT $40.I HAVE 4 OF 'EM FOR WORK. YOU MIGHT GET ONE ON LINE CHEAPER

MAPP IS IN THE YELLOW BOTTLE---IT HEATS UP REALLY FAST W/ IT THROTTLE UP HIGH---IT'S SORTA RATE IN THE MIDDLE BETWEEN USING "PROPANE" OR "ACETYLENE"

I USE IT A LOT FOR SOLDERING OR AROUND THE HOUSE (LIKE FOR WHAT YOU ARE DOING)

MAPP W/ THE TURBO TORCH WILL HEAT A 3/4" NUT "RED" IN LESS THAN 30 SECONDSLOTS OF THE TIME YOU NEED ONLY HEAT UP MAYBE A 1/4 TO 1/2 OF THE NUT---WE ONLY NEED IT TO EXPAND A LITTLE TO MAKE IT MOVE

IF YOU DO THIS IN/ON OTHER STUFF, WATCH OUT FOR RUBBER AND "SEALS". WE DON'T WANNA MESS SOMETHING ELSE UP!

I RUN TO MY BUDDY'S SHOP IF I NEED THE ACETYLENE RIG

IF POSSIBLE USE A GOOD PENETRATING OIL A FEW TIMES SEVERAL DAYS BEFORE YOU NEED TO REMOVE STUFF

IF YOU HAVE A CORRECT "DIE", YOU CAN RUN IT UP THE THREADS AS FAR AS YOU CAN TO REMOVE BURRS OR RUST. WHERE THE NUT WILL EVENTUALLY TRAVEL, THIS IS EXTRA WORK, BUT THINGS WILL MOVE SMOOTHER

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 3:48 AM
Tiny
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I made a mistake. I started looking at new suspension systems. Ugghh...expensive. But goodness if my CJ couldn't use it.

Ever heard of this? http://www.rocky-road.com/cjome.html

Looks like skyjacker and rough-country make some decent kits too (or at least popular ones). Now I know what you're thinking. This is just another crazy kid who wants to jack up his jeep, put on 38'' tires and cruise around hoping to pick up chicks. Although half of that is true, I just want a modest kit - 2'' to 4''. It sounds like if I go more than 3'' I"m going to run into a slew of steering and drive train issues. I suppose that I'm willing to sort them out if need be.

I don't have to do this swap now. Just forward thinking. The more I poke around underneath my CJ the more things look like they need to be replaced. The next fix is definitely going to involve the front axle. I suppose I could do them both at once, go ahead and replace the suspension, and get it all knocked out at once. Sigh...but that will be a long time I won't be able to drive her. Just looking for advice.
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 4:14 AM
Tiny
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WHAT'S WRONG WITH THE FRONT?

IF IT'S JUST A SEAL---IT DOES NOT PRE-LOAD WITH A COLLAPSIBLE SPACER IT USES PRE-LOAD SHIMS. EZ FIX, SURELY THE AXLE HAS NOT GOT THE "ENGAGED" MILES ON IT AS THE REAR DOES. SEE "THE KNOWLEDGE BASE"

MY SPRINGS SAGGED BIG-TIME WHEN I 1ST GOT HIM

THE REAR WAS WORSE--I RECKON FROM SOMEONE GETTING ON THE CLUTCH HARD AND "TORQUING/ TWISTING" THEM

REMINDED ME OF A "SQUATTING DOG", AS I I APPROACHED IT FROM AFAR!

I WENT WITH A ONE INCH SPRING LIFT ON BOTH ENDS (OTHER INCHES ARE AVAILABLE). ONCE INSTALLED, IT SEEMED LIKE A 6" LIFT ON THE REAR!

A SPRING LIFT IS SO MUCH CHEAPER, DOING YOUR HOMEWORK, THEN USING "REALLY GOOD" PROMO CODES AND PURCHASING ONLINE MAY MAKE IT EVEN BETTER

WITH A PERTTY PAINT JOB AND A NICE INTERIOR, YOU'LL HAVE TO SCRAPE THE CHICs OFF LIKE BARNACLES!

IF YOU'RE GONNA KEEP HIM, REMEMBER THE STRESS AND STRAIN THAT LIFTING AND BIGGER TIRES ARE GONNA CAUSE TO YOUR STEERING STUFF AND YOUR MILEAGE. NOT TO MENTION HOW IT'S GONNA WANNA STRAY OUT FROM UNDER YOU.

THE 1ST BELONGS TO MY BUDDY RICK

THE OTHERS ARE AT A SHOP WHERE THEY ARE RE-DOING THIS ONE 100%, GONNA SELL IT FOR AROUND $8000.

I'VE TOLD TWO OF THE FELLERS THAT THE FUEL TANK IS ON 180 OUT, I RECON THEY'LL FIGGER IT OUT WHEN THE BODY IS ON AND IT'S HARDER TO SPIN IT AROUND!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
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Man, what I wouldn't give for a set up like that. Even just a garage. Those look like Rancho springs maybe?

So I've made up my mind and at some point I'm going to do a 4'' spring lift. For now, though, I can't afford it. I'm thinking about just replacing the rear shackles with these :

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/shackle-lift-1-2-greaseable-rear-warrior-war17200.html

The old shackle bolts are useless and it looks like the previous owner only replaced half of a shackle on the driver side. Will that 1/2'' lift do any damage? I'm thinking not since my CJ was a hard top plus full size spare and the rear end is sagging to begin with. Eventually I'll go for the 4'' spring lift and then install a similar set of shackles in the front end. And yes I know I'll need steering stabilizers, pitman drop, new double jointed drive shaft, axle shims, and transfer case shims for a lift of that much.

In other news, found the culprit in the differential. When I pushed the pinion yoke into the differential and went to turn it, it felt like the bearings were rolling over the Appalachian foothills. Completely ruined. Hopefully the pinion is still good. There's a good 0.01'' or so of play in the pinion laterally too (as in the pinion depth changes by 0.01'' when you push and pull on it). So most likely someone didn't set the preload right. Going to pull out the axle shafts and hopefully get a good look at the bearings tonight. I'll post pictures if I get it done.
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 8:37 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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AS FAR AS I KNOW THEY HAVE NOT SOLD THAT JEEP YET

I DON'T KNOW WHETHER THEY AUCTION IT, OR SEALED BIDS, OR WHAT?

YOUR OTHER LINK W/ OLE MAN EMU IS PROUD OF HIS STUFF, AIN'T HE?

I'M SENDING A LINK. THIS MAKES FINDING THE BEST PRICES FAST!

AT THE TOP YOU CAN INSERT A "NAME"--"TYPE"--"PART NUMBER"--"WHATEVER"

ALSO AT THE TOP "SORT BY" HIGHEST TO LOWEST---AT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAGE "PRODUCT PER PAGE". GO WITH "80"

THIS WILL QUICKLY LET YOU SORT THRU STUFF (EVEN THE EXACT SAME ITEM) TO FIND THE LEAST EXPENSIVE COMPANY OFFERING IT

. ONCE YOU FIND THE COMPANY W/ THE BEST PRICE, SEARCH FOR PROMO CODES FOR THAT COMPANY TO GET IT EVEN CHEAPER, SOME PLACES OFFER MILITARY DISCOUNTS, FREE SHIPPING, ETC

THIS MAY TAKE A LITTLE TIME, BUT YOU MAY SAVE A BUNDLE (I USUALLY SLUFF THIS TASK OFF ON MY WIFE, MAKES IT EVEN EZer ON ME!)

LOOKING FORWARD TO SEEING YOUR PROGRESSION

THE MEDIC
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Monday, July 16th, 2012 AT 10:18 PM
Tiny
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So I got the axle shafts out last night and was pleasantly surprised to find that Johnny-preowner had already replaced them with one piece shafts. I canceled my Superior Axle and Gear order, and that's a little more money I can put towards the lift kit.

Question, it looks like the wheel bearings are facing opposite ways on the shafts. Is that right? Pic 1 is passenger side. Pic 2 is driver side (race is still in place).

I tried prying the carrier out with no luck. That thing is stuck in there good. Even got two of my roommates to help out and still nothing. I tried your rag trick too - placing the rag under the carrier and just rotating the pinion until it pops out. Still nothing. I'm going to buy an extra jack stand to set the yoke on as well as a socket for the pinion nut. I'll try the rag trick again with a big ol' breaker bar. If that doesn't work, then I'll get a bigger pry bar. I don't want to have to buy a case spreader (around $400).
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Tuesday, July 17th, 2012 AT 3:01 PM

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