Inconsistent curb idle and low power at RPMs

1st PIC)

GREEN LINE ON CANISTER (TANK VENT) IS NOW UP ON THE FIREWALL.....CANISTER AND CRAP IS ELIMINATED

THIS LINE COMES OFF OF THE TANK, THEN UP INSIDE THE DRIVERS REAR FENDER, IT GOES THRU A "LIQUID CHECK VALVE" AND THEN A "ROLL-OVER CHECK VALVE", IT THEN GOES FORWARD TO THE CANISTER.

THE TWO VALVES I JUST MENTIONED ARE DESIGNED TO KEEP RAW FUEL FROM COMING OUT OF THE TANK, BUT ALLOWING THE FUEL TANK TO "VENT". "PLUGGING" THIS VENT WOULD MAKE THE TANK DRAW A VACUUM AND FUEL COULD NOT BE S.UCKED UP TO THE CARB......REASON FOR THE "BREATHABLE" FUEL FILTER ON MY MODIFICATION.

2ND PIC

EZ, ADD TWO INCHES OF 3/8 FUEL LINE TO THIS TEE---THEN ADD A 3/8 FUEL FILTER SO IT CAN BREATHE AND KEEP TRASH AND DIRT DAUBERS OUT OF THE LINE

SEE THE BLEEDING PORTION OF THIS POST

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1999-ford-f-150-brakes--3

PIC 3)

YOKE HOLDING TOOL (USED ON TRANSFER CASE YOKE IN THIS PIC)----THE BEARINGS IN THE TRANSFER CASE ARE "PRE-LOADED" USING CORRECT SHIMS......THIS YOKE GETS 150 FT LBS TO SEAT THE NUT

THE PINION IN THE REAR, USES A "CRUSH SLEEVE" OR "COLLAPSIBLE SPACER".....SUPPOSED TO BE REPLACED ANY TIME THE NUT IS LOOSENED....THIS IS A DELICATE THING TO DO, AND MUST BE CORRECT, OTHERWISE THE REAR WILL NOT LAST

NOW THAT YOU ARE OUT ON THE ROAD---IS THIS HAPPENING TO YOU TOO???

YOU MAY HAVE TO USE DIFFERENT ROUTES TO GET HOME TO AVOID ALL OF THAT!

THE MEDIC

JUST SOME "EXPERIENCE" THOUGHTS

TAKING THE OLD ORIGINAL 2 PC AXLES OUT (IF THAT'S WHAT YOU HAVE) THEY ARE IDENTIFIED BY HAVING A BEARING CAP LOOKING COVER OVER A BIG NUT.....THIS IS CENTER OF THE FLANGE W/ THE WHEEL REMOVED. A AFTERMARKET 1 PC AXLE IS MOSTLY A FLAT FLANGE W/ NO COVER.

IF YOU STILL HAVE THE ORIGINALS, YOU MUST USE A BIG OLE HUB PULLER TO SEPARATE THE HUB FROM THE TAPERED AXLE, WHEN THIS HUB WAS INSTALLED, SPLINES ON THE AXLE, "CUTS" IT'S OWN GROOVES INTO THE HUBS....SAD THING IS, IF THEY ARE REUSED, THEY REQUIRE 250 FT.LBS. (A MONSTER TORQUE WRENCH) TO PUT THEM BACK TOGETHER.

I'D ALSO GIVE YOU A 1 IN 3 CHANCE, THAT AFTER ALL OF YOUR EFFORTS, THE SPLINES DON'T HOLD UP, AND YOUR AXLE WILL SPIN IN THE HUB......YOU SIT STILL IN GEAR, SHOULD BE MOVING, BUT THE BIG OLE NUT (AND AXLE) SPIN FREE, "SORTA AS IF" ONE WHEEL IS SPINNING IN MUD......THIS ALSO HAPPENS OWN IT'S OWN, ESPECIALLY WHEN "ONE" PUTS HIS BABY THRU H.ELL. EITHER WAY, YOU GOTTA GET ANOTHER SET AND START OVER

......UNLESS, YOU INSTALL 1 PC AXLES AT THIS POINT

THERE IS NO TORQUING REQUIRED

YOU CAN UNBOLT YOUR OLD AXLES SLIDE EVERYTHING OUT....HACKSAW THE AXLES OFF NEAR THE HUBS.....THE ONLY PART YOU NEED TO KEEP IS THE BRAKE BACKING PLATE---IT'S TRAPPED BETWEEN THE AXLE AND HUB...NO PULLER NEEDED, THE OLD AXLES WOULD DEFINITELY BE "TOAST" WHEN CUT

INSTALL IS EZ!

I PAID NEARLY $500 FOR MY SET MANY YEARS AGO, WHEN THEY 1ST HIT THE MARKET (I FELT I WOULD NEED THEM) SEEUNS HOW ON MY 1ST THREE JEEPS, I HAD TO GO BACK WITH ORIGINAL CRAP, THAT'S ALL THERE WAS, WHEN YOU SPUN AN AXLE!

WELL.....KNOCK ON WOOD, I BOUGHT MY 1 PC. AXLES, 4 INNER SEALS, 4 OUTER SEALS, 4 BEARINGS......JUST TO HAVE A SPARE SET OF THE SMALL ITEMS. THIS EXPENSIVE BOX OF GOODIES IS STILL IN MY CLOSET. I GOT JEEP #6 IN ABOUT 1992. THUS FAR "MR. JEEP" HAS NOT "SPUN AN AXLE" YET.....THAT'S 20 YEARS, W/ SAME WHEEL BEARINGS/ SEALS....WHO KNOWS WHAT IT'S PREVIOUS HISTORY IS!

MORAL OF THAT STORY.....I AM READY, WHEN "TIME" ROLLS AROUND

I REALLY LOOKED AROUND FOR YOU

WE MAY CAN GET THIS AT A BETTER DEAL, THIS DOES NOT LOOK SO BAD, AT IT'S PRESENT RATE

http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Drivetrain-Jeep-Axles-Differentials/AMC-20-Rear-Axle-Kit.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=5564&t_pn=G%2f296-2025-3

AS FAR AS REAR END GOES THINK ABOUT A STANDARD DIFF VS. A "TRAC-LOC" (POSI-TRACTION ON THE REAR--FRONT IS OPTIONAL LATER ON)

SO WE'RE LOOKIN' AT RING AND PINION--ITS BEARINGS AND CRUSH SLEEVE..........SIDE BEARINGS.....CARRIER OR NOT????.....DIFF JUICE DEPENDING ON WHAT SYSTEM YOU USE.......AND OF COURSE "SHIMS"

I'D SAY YOUR BEST SOURCE FOR A VARIETY OF SIZES AND THICKNESSES WILL BE AT ONE OF THOSE "COUNTRY TRANSMISSION SHOPS"....YOU KNOW THE KIND YOU WALK INTO AND IT LOOKS LIKE "HOARDER-VILLE"......THESE GUYS HAVE BEEN HOARDING THIS STUFF FOR 60 YEARS, KNOW RIGHT WHERE IT'S AT, AND DEPENDING ON YOUR 1ST IMPRESSION, YOU CAN GET IT CHEAP OR EVEN FREE!

THIS TECHNIQUE MAY WORK IN HOARDER-VILLE TOO. YOU SOUND LIKE YOU'RE WELL VERSED IN ANY SITUATION

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1989-mercury-tracer-was-backed-into-need-headlight

SHAKING?

COMPLETELY REMOVE REAR DRIVE SHAFT----STICK 'EM IN 4X4---FRONT WHEELS ARE THE ONLY THING PULLING.....DOES IT GO AWAY???

LET'S NOT EVEN ATTEMPT TO MAKE SHIMS---SEARCH NET IF NOTHING ELSE---DO IT RIGHT!----FULLY UNDERSTAND "PRE-LOAD"---WE'LL PHONE COMMO IF YOU WANT MORE OF MY RURAL ROUTE EXPLANATIONS!

MY AMC JEEP MANUAL SHOWS THE RING AND PINION MARKED WITH "+" AND "-" AND A NUMBER, SUCH AS "+ 3" ON THE RINGTHE NEW RING MAY SAY "+ 1".......A CHART SHOWS THE "TENTATIVE" .002" (2 THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH. YOU WOULD EITHER "ADD" A .002" SHIM OR "SUBTRACT" .002"

WHAT THIS SORTA MEANS IS THE "SPOT" THAT THE PINION MESHES "BEST"/ "QUIETEST" WITH THE RING. THE NUMBERS ARE THERE SO THAT YOU CAN EZily SHIM IT RIGHT OR CLOSE.......THEY DO STILL WANT YOU TO VERIFY THIS WITH THE DEPTH TOOLS, IN A PINCH, I'D TRUST THE CHART MORE THAN "JIMBOB, THE IMPACT WRENCH GUY"!

THE MEDIC

2 HOSES ON TANK--DRIVER'S SIDE GO TO THE LIQUID CHECK AND ROLLOVER CHECK

BEFORE YOU GO CRAZY WITH SPECIAL TOOLS, INVESTIGATE ***SEVERAL*** "BACKWOODS" ONE MAN OPERATIONS---LIKE THE ROCKET SCIENTIST WHO OWNS A LITTLE BITTY TRANNY SHOP. SEE IF HE WILL "ASSIST" YOU IN A PROPER REAR END REBUILD. IT MAY COST YOU A LITTLE, BUT INSIST THAT YOU ARE FULLY INVOLVED IN THE PROCESS, AS YOU WANT IT DONE "TEXTBOOK" AND WANT THE EXPERIENCE. NOT JUST A PAY AND PICK UP DEAL!

LIKE I SAID--INVESTIGATE SEVERAL--YOU WILL NEED TO WEED OUT THE SHULL BITTERS---FIND YOU A GREAT MENTOR. THIS MAY BE HELPFUL TO HAVE IN THE FUTURE.

NO GIRLY NAMES FOR MY JEEP--A MANLY VEHICLE GETS A MANLY NAME."WILLY" AND "MR. JEEP". WE ALSO HAVE A "MR. HAPPY", HE IS ONLY REFERRED TO. WELL ANYWAY, I FEEL SURE YOU GET THE PICTURE ON THAT!

KEEP ME POSTED---THOSE AXLES COME IN SETS, MINE WITH THE BEARINGS TOO. THE SEALS AND EXTRAS I BOUGHT SEPARATLY

NO MONEY PIT. INVESTMENT. LOOK AT JET SKIS, BOATS, OTHER CARS. EXPIRATION DATES STAMPED ALL OVER THEM. WILLY IS 66 YEARS OLD, TURNS THOSE HEADS EVERY SINGLE DAY. DARN WANNA BEs!

THE MEDIC

ROGER ON THE ABOVE

SEE IF YOU CAN FIND SOME REALLY GOOD DECENT PICS ON HOW A "NORMAL WEAR PATTERN" SHOULD LOOK ON THE RING GEAR

THIS DOES NOT HAVE TO BE A JEEP'S PATTERN, ANY OTHER VEHICLE WITH THE SAME OR CLOSE TO THE SAME GEAR RATIO SHOULD EXHIBIT A SIMILAR PATTERN.I'LL LOOK TOO

AFTER YOU GET A FEEL FOR THE PROCEDURE AT OTHER PLACES. GO BACK TO "THE KNOWLEDGE BASE". THE FACTORY MANUAL IS WHAT YOU WANNA STICK BY.

HOPE YOU ARE GETTING HIM DONE UP RIGHT

NEED A FEW MORE ALBUMS?

THE MEDIC

I TOOK A PIC AT WORK TODAY

WHILE I WAS MAKING THEM MONEY, I MUSTA HAD 15 PEOPLE COME IN ASKING ABOUT WILLY

ONE FELLER LOUDLY ASKED "WHO IS DRIVING THE WILLYS OUT THERE?"

FROM ACROSS THE STORE, I HOLLERED BACK, "BETTER NOT BE ANYONE DRIVING IT!"

SADLY, THE OTHER EMPLOYEE WITH THE BIG TRUCK, HAD NO INQUIRY'S ABOUT HIS.

AIN'T IT GOOD TO BE A JEEP KINDA GUY!

THE MEDIC

NEG

MY 1ST '77 CJ 5 WAS A V-8 304 IN THE 80s. ONLY ONE I EVER HAD. TOO MUCH POWER, MPGs LOW, I COULD OUT RUN A F-16 WITH FULL AFTERBURNERS ON, BUT WHEN 2ND GEAR RAN OUT AT 90 MPH, THERE WAS NOTHING LEFT. I'D SIMPLY LET OFF THE GAS AND I WOULD WAVE OFF MY COMPETITOR AS IF HE COULDN'T TAKE ME!

I WASN'T MUCH INTO RACING ANYWAY, THE 258 IS MATCHED BETTER WITH A CJ. BESIDES, THAT'S TWO LESS SPARK PLUGS TO BUY!

THE JEEP IN THE PIC IS ONE THAT BELONGS TO AN ACQUAINTANCE OF MINE, HE'S GOT SOME INTERIOR WORK TO DO ON IT

I'VE HAD 6 CJ 5s AND WILLY (STILL GOT MY LAST CJ 5)

I JUST SENT YOU ALL OF THE REMAINING JEEP MODS/ INTERESTING ALBUMS

I RECKON I NEED TO WORK ON SOME NEW ONES

I HAVE ABOUT FOUR PROCEDURES I NEED TO DO SOON, ON MINE AND OTHER JEEPS.I GET TOO INVOLVED AND FORGET TO TAKE PICS

THE MEDIC

YOU MEAN THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY OFF OF THE LEAF SPRINGS. YES

IF YOU MEAN DISASSEMBLE THE DIFFERENTIAL WITH THE AXLES LEFT IN. NO

THOSE CRAPPY DESIGNED AMC AXLE/ HUBS REALLY MESS YOU UP----IT WASN'T ALWAYS LIKE THAT. FROM '41-JUST BEFORE OURS, THE HUBS ARE ON TAPERED AXLES USING A REALLY BIG KEY/ KEY-WAY. THESE WERE BASICALLY RE-USABLE FOREVER.

IN MY PIC BELOW YOU WILL SEE THE BIG SOCKET USED TO REMOVE THE WHEEL BEARINGS.I CHOPPED MINE IN HALF AND WELDED AN EXTENSION IN THE MIDDLE, FOR USE IN OTHER APPLICATIONS TOO.

THE OTHER TOOL IS SORTA A WWII IDEA (WHICH I COPIED). THIS IS FOR REMOVING THE REAR HUBS (BRAKE DRUMS ARE PRESSED ONTO THEM, SO TO GET TO THE BRAKES, HUB AND DRUM ARE SORTA ONE UNIT, HAVE TO BE REMOVED TOGETHER)

SO WHAT YOU DO ON WILLY IS LEAVE THE WHEEL ON THE GROUND.

REMOVE THE DUST CAP (LIKE ON MR. JEEP).

REMOVE THE COTTER-PIN AND BIG CASTLE NUT. THIS ONLY WORKS ON "WILLY". OUR LATER MODELS REQUIRES A HUB PULLER, I EVEN BROKE ONE ONCE TRYING TO PULL A HUB

SCREW THE WW II TOOL ON WHERE THE CASTLE NUT WAS AT. SCREW ON IT TILL THE END OF THE AXLE BOTTOMS OUT ON THE FLAT BAR OF THE TOOL

THIS LEAVES A SMALL GAP BETWEEN THE WW II NUT AND THE HUB

WITH A GOOD HARD "WHAP" WITH A SLEDGE HAMMER, OVER THE CENTER OF THE "WW II TOOL'S NUT", YOU DRIVE THE TAPERED FIT AND KEY LOOSE OUT OF THE HUB.

BACK OFF THE WWII TOOL SLIGHTLY---LOOSEN THE LUG NUTS---JACK WILLY UP----AND WAH-LAH. THE HUB AND BRAKE DRUM ARE OFF

SO SIMPLE, YET STILL STRONG. ENGINEER FELLER. WHY DO YA'LL MAKE THINGS HARDER AS THE YEARS PROGRESS?

KEEP ME POSTED AS YOU PROGRESS OR NEED MOVE INFO

THE MEDIC

NO PIC---HERE IT IS

THE MEDIC

THIS IS CRUDE

DO YOU UNDERSTAND IT?

THE MEDIC

THOUGHT YOU WERE GONNA TELL ME YOU WERE TRAINING TO STAND BEHIND A STEERING WHEEL AND TRY TO KEEP ONE OF THEM FREIGHT TRAINS IN BETWEEN THE RAILS!

THE MEDIC