Engine cranks but will not start?

Hi,

That shouldn't prevent if from starting. It will, however, cause issues with fuel usage and how the vehicle runs.

As far as the no start, here is a link that covers the most common causes of a crank no start condition. First, take a look through it to see if it is helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start
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If nothing there is helpful, the next thing you need to do is check if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine. Here are two links showing in general how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

What I do often times is just see if it will start for a couple seconds using starting fluid. If it starts and then stalls, that indicates a fuel related issue.

Now, if you have both spark and fuel, there could be an issue with timing or compression. We will cross that bridge once the above tests have been made.

Please feel free to let me know if you have questions or need help.

Take care,
Joe

Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge auto parts rent it if you do not have your own. it may be a security system problem as well so try a reset see links

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

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Subject: Knock knock 2017 Versi

Pull the codes and post them. If the light has been on you will not know if it is one code or ten. Could have a simple EVAP code that turned on the light earlier, but the symptoms of hot start problems sound like a crank sensor issue and would turn on the light, which was already on.

Hi mturcotte,

Seems the ignition switch is causing the problem

Call the dealer to check out if your vehicle is listed under the recall for ignotion switches.

Hi,

Chances are the ignition control module has failed. That is where I would start checking. Here are the diagnostics related to it. The attached pics correlate with the directions. The very last pic is a schematic for the ignition system.

___________________________________________

1999 Honda Accord LX Sedan L4-2254cc 2.3L SOHC (VTEC) MFI
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management Relays and Modules - Ignition System Ignition Control Module Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
NOTE:
- If the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) comes on, refer to the Fuel and Emission System.
- Perform an input test for the ignition control module (ICM) after finishing the fundamental tests for the ignition system and the fuel and emissions systems.
- The tachometer should operate normally if the ICM is OK.

1. Remove the distributor ignition (DI) cap, the distributor ignition (DI) rotor, and the leak cover.

F23A1 and F23A4 2.3L SOHC VTEC

pic 1

F23A5 2.3L SOHC Non-VTEC

pic 2

2. Disconnect the wires from the ICM (A).
3. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.

- If there is no battery voltage, check the BLK/YEL wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.
- If there is battery voltage, go to step 4.

4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II). Check for voltage between the WHT/BLK (WHT/BLU for the F23A5 engine) wire and body ground. There should be battery voltage.

- If there is no battery voltage, check:
- ignition coil.
- WHT/BLK (WHT/BLU for the F23A5 engine) wire between the ICM and ignition coil.
- If there is battery voltage, go to step 5.

5. Disconnect the 25P connector from the ECM/PCM, and check for continuity on the YEL/GRN wire between the ICM and ECM/PCM. There should be continuity.
6. Check for continuity on the YEL/GRN wire to body ground. There should be no continuity.
7. If all the tests are normal, reconnect the ECM/PCM 25P connector B, and replace the ICM.

_________________________________________________________

Let me know what you find

Joe

I didn't realize it was new. When I read it, I assumed it was the cap. Anything is possible. Is it doing the same thing as it was before the new distributor?

Okay. The last thing I can think of is the crankshaft position sensor and top dead center (TDC) sensor. The TDC controls ignition timing when starting and the crank sensor controls ignition and injection timing when running. Have you replaced that as well? If not, can you get a live data scanner? If so, see if there is an RPM reference on the scan tool when cranking the engine. If there isn't, replace these two items. Here are the directions:

______________________________________________

1999 Honda Accord EX Coupe L4-2254cc 2.3L SOHC (VTEC) MFI
Procedures
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Crankshaft Position Sensor Service and Repair Procedures
PROCEDURES
1. Remove the balancer belt.
2. Remove the balancer belt drive pulley.

Pic 1

3. Disconnect the CKP/TDC sensors connector (A), then remove the CKP/TDC sensors (B).
4. Install the CKP/TDC sensors in reverse order of removal.
5. Install the balancer belt.
________________________

Let me know what you find.

Joe

Let me know what you find. Hopefully that is the issue.

Take care,
Joe

Hi,

There is nothing under the dash that delivers fuel. There are no fuel lines in the vehicle passenger compartment. I have no idea what he means. Have you checked for fuel pressure? Also, I thought there was an issue with only having spark to one of the spark plugs, which has nothing to do with the fuel system.

Did he give you a receipt indicating anything?

Joe

I have to agree with you. If he said there is something under the dash that sends fuel to the engine, I question what he was doing.

Let me know what you find with the sensors.

Joe

Hi,

If you tell me if the engine is a 2.2L and if it's a v-tec or not, I can get you all the directions and timing marks for you.

I have to be honest, this is an interference engine. There could be internal damage. Give me the specifics regarding the engine so I can help. You listed it as a 2.7 and that isn't an engine size they made. I just need to confirm what you have.

Let me know.

Joe