Ran out of gas now will not run

I do not know where the injector "plugs" are? Do I need to remove any of the intake manifold, fuel rail, or air intake to get to them? Thanks, jmc

I found the 4 injectors with the plug wire on top. I unplugged the one at a time and turned on the key all the way to the starter turning the engine. Did it twice. I started with the injector closest to the front of the car and the front of the engine. #1 unplugged fuse still burnt, left it unplugged inserted new 15 amp main fuse, unplugged #2 fuse burnt fuse again, new 15 amp, unplugged #3 fuse burnt again, new fuse unplugged #4 fuse burnt again. New fuse. All injectors unplugged, removed 30 amp INJ fuse key on crank, 15 amp fuse did not burn, plugged in 30 amp INJ fuse all injectors unplugged, key on crank, 15 amp fuse burnt. What else is on that circuit? What do I do npow? Thanks, jmc

The air con is off always, I double-checked it. Are there two ignition coils? I will check it (them) in the morning. Thank you, James.

I unplugged the wires going into the coils under the cover on the firewall end of the motor. Turn the key on and the 15-amp fuse burned again. I will go back out and unplug the A/C compressor. Brb.

Okay removed. Key on 15-amp fuse burned again. Now what? Thanks, jmc

Now the A/C compressor fuse removed also. 15-amp main fuse burnt. That was the last fuse in the 10 pack so I must go to the auto parts store to get more. Now what? Thanks, jmc

Yes, the 15-amp main fuse burned. I then pulled the main relay out and measured VDC of the socket where the relay plugs in with vom. 85 and 86 almost 8 volts, the battery has a full charge. I had the charger on it. Then 85 to 87 & 87a same almost 8 volts in socket, 85 to 30 = 0. Should I have pulled all other fuses, so I was testing just the main relay?

This is what I did at each step on your instructions and the results. Please review and advise what next? Kenny K, this is to make sure we are talking about the same things.
**** = my reply
So, with the relay removed the fuse did not blow? Or it did with the relay out?
**** relay removed = did not blow.
The 8 volts is wrong. It should have 12 volts so we need to find out why.
****7.6 volts was measured in the sockets with the relay removed in the fuse/relay box ****mounted in the right side of engine compartment on the relay itself these sockets are ****numbered 85 your supplied schematic pin number 4 and relay numbered 86 your schematic ****number 2
I assume you were checking the voltage between the terminals so let's use an outside source and check these voltages.
***** I was checking voltages in the socket with the relay removed in the fuse/relay box mounted in the right side of engine compartment
_ 85 0
*****on the relay itself the pins are numbered = M _30 12.18 |87a |87.02 -.25
**** E 12.18 0. 02 _ 86 12.18
.25
_4
**** on your schematic the pins are numbered _ 1 |3 |5
**** this is my interpretation of the schematic _2

Basically, you are going to be looking for a short to ground. So on pin 4 and 1 you should have no continuity to ground. **** M; 4 = 0 ; 1 = 0 ; k off

2 and 3 should have ground with the key on. **** M; 2 = 0; 3 = 10

So the other way would be to check pin 1 and 4 using a known good ground and not the other relay terminal. **** M = 1 o ; 4 = o
****k off; E = 1 = o ; 4 = 1.0 k on ; 1 = o; 4 = 9.4
Then 2 and 3 put your meter on battery positive and then touch these pins with the key on with your black lead on these terminals. You should have 12 volts.
****E; k on ; 2 = 12.15; 3 =.01 ; 5 = 12.18 M ; k on; 2 = 0 ; 3 = 12.15 ; 5 = 11.8 ; 4 = 11.6 ; 1 = 0
We are looking for where it shows 8 volts and that leg will be the issue.

Key on red on 4 = 0
on 1 =12.1 black lead on battery ground

Ohm meter set on 200 range.

I do not see anyway. I do not think it has a circuit board. There are wires connecting the various sockets where fuses are plugged.

Maybe I identified the pin numbers wrong?

I do see a wire connecting the relay to the 15 amp fuse.