No spark?

No codes, fusible links ok. Still leaning toward the EEC. What do ya think?

86 ranger 2.3L. Engine cranks, but no spark, and no power to fuel pump. Fuel pump works when we jumper to it, and strangely, if I unhook the EEC, we get spark from the coil, but fuel pump still gets no power. I have replaced the EEC, EEC relay, ignition switch, and jumped past the inertia switch. What else can be wrong? Main ground is ok, lot of new parts, but still cant get spark under normal start conditions please help.

Hi everyone, Thank you again for all your help. We fixed it. It was a faulty new part. The EEC relay tested bad, so I replaced it. The new one was bad, we found out by testing the circuit again, and jumping past the relay. Lesson learned: don't always trust new parts! Especially electrical parts! Have a good one

Kind of stuck trying with that now. I think we have tested/tried everything else. I will let you know.

My 86 ranger has new plugs new distributor new coil new plug wires and wen I started it it runs fine thn it starts to act like it's running on three cylinders and runs really rough whats wrong? And sometimes now it won't start at all or starts running rough right when I start it and won't stay running

I just bought it about a month ago and all of those were replaced right before I got it and it was running fine until the last couple days and I replaced the coil today because it started cutting out after I accelerate past half throttle and it wasn't a problem with not getting enough gas then it started just running rough randomly then would fix itself and I was told to change the coil so I did and it took care of that problem and ran fine for a fem minutes then started to run rough again and it was just going back and forth running bad then good again while it was idleing it acted like it was only firing on three cylinders when it started running rough and now it either won't start or runs rough non stop

Hi, my EA falcon 3.9MPFI does the same thing, it blew my muffler apart when it started playing up, I came across this thread while looking for a problem with my car. Heres my story;
- My car always ran good then cut out (tacho turned off, 0). I worked out that it stopped because the distrubitor was getting hot (sloppy bushes i
think), once it cooled it worked fine again.
- I tried fitting another dizzy (lol off a 3.9CFI) and no go (research showed me the internal chopper was different (MPFI ones have a shorter blade on one)).
- I bought a new distributor and coil package to suit my needs from Repco, OEM=$600 vs Generic=$300, I chose the cheaper one.
- I fitted the two new items to manufacturer specifications and the car started first turn, it went well for about a week when my bro pointed out a rattling sound at idle, it was coming from the dizzy, I stopped the engine then checked the oil, it was half on dipstick, when it was topped up it ran without the rattle (i think the damage was done already).
- I continued to go to work everyday (15Km away) and the car always plays up around half way there or back, unless I warm up my car for 10-15min before.
- I researched more online and many people said my symptoms were something to do with the TFI module (on side of dizzy on EFI engines), sometimes it wont fire at all in the mornings, but I thaught I might fiddle with the plug on the distributor while starting (i got a remote starter thingy), while pushing the plug in further with ignition on, I heard a click, then I tried starting it, it started and ran until I let go of the plug. It is plugged in all the way too.
- My thaught is that when the first dizzy overheated, and maybe the current one too, it got that hot that the tabs in the socket on the TFI module got hot too and made the plug get hot, possibly opening up the contacts to an open circuit.
- Still bugging me I got to the contacts on the plug (by sliding out the red plastic thingy on dizzy plug on wiring harness side) and tried to close them back up to make a better contact with the TFI. It worked for a bit and I still have the same problem.

I put in a new timing chain also when I put in the dizzy from repco, but I noticed that the oil pressure regulator for the chain wasn't there, feeding lots of oil to the chain and maybe less to the dizzy causing the bushes to wear and get hot. Does this sound like it could cause these problems (oil pressure in dash shows normal)? BTW all of the distributors have an oil port around the neck going to the shaft, but there isnt a oil port anywhere in my engine in the same area. How does the distributor get lubricated?

Anyway I hope my spiel helps you figure it out, or you might have an idea for me.

I have an 1985 ford ranger that is geting no spark from coil tower. I had the coil checked by 3 diffrent autozones and they all sayed its good. So I checked (with the test light) the coil and there is power going in the + side and comeing out the - side. So I thought it was my pickup unit. I replaced the whole distributer and still no spark. I was driveing it all day, starting it and shuting it off, but the last time I shut it off it never turned back on. All it does is crank.

Is your fuel pump working? I have had this happen to my 87 ranger. Driving and it quit. Had no spark and fuel pump wasnt engaging either. After many parts replaced it was an inline fuse. Check small wire coming off starter selinoid on inner fender. Mine was down 6-8 inches and there is a second one on down the wire