No spark?

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Sorry for the late reply. I realize this is an old post. In the future hope you don't have any vehicle issues, but, if you do, keep the site in mind. They are always working to improve the site.

To answer your question, I'm not sure of engine size? I don't know if you have a coil pack or distributor? With the work you've done, I'd check for cylinder compression. If you have a distributor, does the rotor turn when you crank it? I'd also want to check primary voltage to coil or coil pack. Battery has a full charge?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VLADIMIR E.
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD RANGER
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 250,000 MILES
I am working on a for ranger, I found wires that are touching each other bare, its the sensor that is attach on the intake manifold, also there is no spark, then I found the engine belt timing to be off, and the sensor that sits in the crank pulley would be the cranksensor, it is badly worn out, for the body of sensor is suppost to be straight to read the rotaionla degrees of the crank shaft, instead it has a worn patern goin in, instead of a most decent traight line to read the magnectic rotation. What can you sujest to me, to do!
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,121 POSTS
Ok, tape up the wires that are touching, or replace it altogether, then replace the crank position sensor, make sure the negative battery cable is removed prior to doing this
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:48 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWNSKI007
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1989 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 129,566 MILES
I have an 1989 ford ranger XLT with a 2.9l Engine,
I bought it with a protential blown head. There was water in the oil. First I yanked the intake manafold off and replaced the gasket and put everything back together and it started. I let it run for about 5 min only to find that steam was comming out the exhaust pipe. I later tore it all down to the heads. They needed to be shaved.

I have replaced everything back on the engine and now it wont spark. I am at my wits end. I made sure the disribitor was pointing to one on the compression cycle. Points at TDC. I replaced the coil, the TFI (Later found this to be bad). The pick up in the disribitor got replaced yesterday. There is fuel pressure and the inerit switch is ok. There is power to the coil. (11.95 volts battery at 12.02). I even placed an ohm meter at the crankshaft sensor and when it goes around the meter jumps. I cleaned the only two grounds I could find on the motor. Oh yeah. When I pull the SPOUT connector I get spark when I try to start it but it wont start with or without the SPOUT in place. I have great compression. If you guys can help me out I would be so greatful.

Help in montana
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If the engine has no spark, check for voltage at the coil positive terminal when the ignition key is on.

If there is voltage, the problem is on the trigger side of the coil (pickup, crank sensor, ignition module or primary wiring circuit).

If there is NO voltage at the coil, the problem is on the supply side (the ignition switch or ignition wiring circuit).

If the coil has voltage, the problem may be a bad high voltage output wire from the coil to the distributor, hairline cracks in the coil output tower, or cracks or carbon tracks inside the distributor cap or on the rotor.

Measure the resistance of the CPS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/12900_ignition_system_1.jpg

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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SHAWNSKI007
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I haven't found the problem yet. The only thing new I found is when I put a code reader on the engine it gave me a code 95. The chilton manual says its a code for only a car. But the book that came with the code reader says its a secondary fuel fault. However I have excellent fuel pressure at the injectors. I guess I need to investigate this code 95 more and see if it isn't shutting off the ignition as a safety precaution

thanks for your picture. It was very clear and to the point.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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Your problem is No Spark.

95 Fuel pump secondary circuit failure. Your DTC's are OBD1 its not a 96 and Up. Better check it.

OBD1 code 95 has nothing to do with No spark

A 2.9L 6cyl has no CPS but a 2.3L 4cyl does What you have is a distributor system-its not a DIS. BTW you don't check the crankshaft positioning sensor that way. Either you check its resistances or the AC signal on it.

Ok, apparently you didnt read anything about my problem. You basically asked questions I already answered for you. My job is to ask a lot questions in order for me to give a definate answer. Remember you got the vehicle, I don't

Good Luck
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Have voltage at coil but not flashing with testlight
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARCHER777
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1989 FORD RANGER
Electrical problem
1989 Ford Ranger 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

hello my ranger will crank really strong but the is no spark. I have replaced the coil, ignition control mod, cap & rotter, plugs wires and still nothing. Can you please help I am out of money and need my truck to work. Thanks in advance
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
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Inspect and test the distributor pick-up coil it doesn't have a CPS the 2.3 liter has it
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
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  • 6 POSTS
Have replaced ignition module also
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ARCHER777
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I'm not even getting fire at the coil I ti will give a spark every so often and thats before it even makes it to the distributor
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Does the distributor rotate when the engine is being cranked over?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1989 FORD RANGER
  • 2.9L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Found low voltage at terminal four ignition module requires battery voltage.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Good afternoon.

Yes, it needs battery voltage. It comes from the ignition switch.

Is there battery voltage at the positive side of the ignition coil?

Roy
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Yes, battery voltage positive side coil.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Then you have a harness issue. The same wire that powers the coil powers the module. Look at the diagram and you will see the red/green wire is the feed.

Roy
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
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  • 6 POSTS
Have battery voltage at coil up to resistor after have 9 volts. Cannot find wire at PCM does it change color somewhere?
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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If you looked at the diagram, it comes from the ignition switch, not the PCM. The module needs battery voltage to work.

Check the harness. You have a wiring harness issue.

Roy
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CRHS56
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Was chasing green/yellow wire not red/yellow. Have battery voltage up to firewall no red/yellow wire at PCM.
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Wednesday, July 29th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)

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