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Timing belt replacement?

CHUCHA01

MEMBER
1998 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
4 CYL
FWD
AUTOMATIC
11,635 MILES

Hello Experts,
I have a non-turbo, 2.0 additional info.
Sometimes when i'm at a red-light my car bounces. Like a hotrod would. It's pretty cool, but I know it's not right. Hehee. Sometimes it wants to jump, (like, into the car in front of me) and sometimes it seems like it's going to just stop (breakdown). I'm assuming it's the timing belt? I have a friend of a friend who can "change the belt" for $250. I have a friend who can do it for $500/600. He says I need the kit and will need to be adjusted. The $250 dude didnt' mention anything about a 'kit' or adjusting the belt. He ($250 guy) once changed some other belt and it snapped, so he put a new belt on. Then that squeaked everytime I turned the wheels. 6 months later I discovered that belt needed to be adjusted. Those belts he changed when he was installing a new water pump.
Second question: Since then, after driving 6-10+ miles with the air-conditioner on. My steering becomes rickety. Like a grinding noise around the front wheels. No squeaking. It sounds like my front axle is going to break. Now, I also do NOT have any boots on my Tie Rods. How important is it to have those on? And could that be the cause. I'm thinking air-conditioner compressor.
I love my car. And I'm proud of my car. And I plan on keeping it forever, even if I have to get an engine overhaul. Which I will someday eventually. When I win the lotto. I'm torn because the $500/600 guy will break me and of course the $250 guy will leave me some left-over money. But, i'm leaning to the $500/600 guy because I want the job to be done right.
Thank you for your time,
Susan Moreno. Picture attached

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Saturday, September 11th, 2010 AT 10:28 PM

48 Replies

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

Hi Susan,

Thank you for the donation.

You must be a jovial and humourous person but I do not see any attached picture.

If the Check Engine Light is indicating, get a free scan done at Autozone and let me know the EXACT trouble code.

Your description of the problem is not clear so I am guessing the problem and you have to correct me if I am wrong.

Do you mean the engine is surging, ie. The rpm would go up and down while idling?

I do not think the problem is caused by the timing belt but if the timing belt had not been replaced before, the mileage of the vehicle indicates it is due for replacement.

Replacement of the timing belt is not a very difficult job but it requires a trained person. Any mistake on the job can be costly as failure of the timing belt can cause a lot of damage to the engine because it is an interference engine. Unless the guy knows what he is doing, if not, stay clear from him.

The rickety steering is most likely due to the drive belt improperly adjusted, it is slipping when the A/C is turned on. It could also be due to the A/C compressor, it is running rough either due to a bad compressor or its bearing.

The tie rod dust covers are to prevent external contminations to the ball joints and keep lubricants in. Any damage to the dust covers would cause the tie-rod ends to fail prematurely.

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Wednesday, September 15th, 2010 AT 10:51 AM

CHUCHA01

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Hi there,
Hmmm, I clicked 'upload'.I had a picture chosen. Don't understand why you didn't get it. Oh well.
Thank you for your response. I really appreciate all your input. It's very informative and correct.
I went to the more knowledgeable guy instead of the one who doesn't know much. In fact he's the reason i'm back in the shop. I purchased a timing belt, + kit, water pump and coil pack.($250) and left my car at my friends shop. They diagnosed it and it read.'Misfire'. At autozone it read.'Timing belt'
That's all I can say.
Thank you guys.I really depend on your answers. You all are really some.(As my daughter would say) "Smarticle Particles". Hahahaha

Susan Moreno

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Thursday, September 16th, 2010 AT 6:17 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

The timing belt would never show on a scanner. The misfiring could be due to bad spark plugs or related components. It could also be due to differences in or low engine compression.

Hope you do not have overheating or coolant losses issues.

After choosing the picture and clicking upload, you need to click "standard" and note if your post has some sort of "img" etc etc links.

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Thursday, September 16th, 2010 AT 6:23 AM

CHUCHA01

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Hi guys,

Ok. I had my timing belt changed along with the coil pack and water pump and thermostat, because after they fixed it (timingbelt), the car started running hot. (My husband put the previous thermostat in wrong) The thermostate change fixed that. Total cost to me was $575.00. The car is running great.
50 miles later, the car started doing it again. Runs great when i'm driving down the road, but as soon as I stop at a red light (still in Drive) the car shakes worse and I noticed the RPM jumped up a little then back down. I immediatley put it in Neutral and it stops shaking. The light changes. Put it back in Drive and go. Runs fabulous. Come to another red light. Same crap happens.I put it in neutral and so on. I make it home. God, i'm losing my mind. Please don't say I need a new engine.
Thank you in advance for your quick response.

Susan

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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 7:08 AM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,814 POSTS

Unless you are still having overheating and coolant losses issues, otherwise it should not be a major problem requiring you to replace the engine.

Problem seems to be the idling speed and I would suggest getting the throttle body and Idle Solenoid Control (ISC, other commonly known as Idle Air Control ) valve cleaned and retest.

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Wednesday, September 22nd, 2010 AT 9:31 AM

SOMEONE

MEMBER
3 POSTS
1998 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
4 CYL
FWD
MANUAL
12,000 MILES

I would like to know how to remove the Left (passengers side) engine support bracket so that I can remove the timing belt cover to replace the timimg belt. I removed the left engine support, then proceeded to remove the support bracket which is covering the timimg belt cover. There are 4 long bolts approximately 4 inches long that go through this support bracket and through the timimg cover finally settling into the engine block. When I went to remove these bolts the problem started here. The 4 bolts are so long that they backed out right up against the firewall. I was able to remove only one bolt. It's really strange because theres still about an inch and a half of bolt that needs to be backed out (thats alot) but your up against the firewall and no room to back the rest of the bolt out. I tried jacking the engine up with a block of wood under the oil pan to see if I could raise the engine enough to clear the firewall. No luck there, it only raises so far but it would still have to be jacked another 3 inches (thats alot) to clear the firewall. HOW IN THE WORLD DO I GET THESE BOLTS OUT? WHAT AM I MISSING?

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Hello -

To better assist you please let me know if your model is a GS, GS-T, GSX AWD, RS, Spyder GS, or Spyder GS-t. Also your engine size in liter.

I have attached a pic so you can point out the bolts you are talking about from one of the models. Are you talking about the one I circled in red?

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

SOMEONE

MEMBER
3 POSTS

The engine size for the 1998 standard eclipse model GS is a 2.0 litre. The bolts you circled on your diagram are not the bolts I'm referring to. The bolts that I am referring to are the bolts that hold the left "engine support" bracket. This bracket is connected through the front of the "timing cover" and the bolts bottom out in the engine block. I cannot get the bolts out of this engine support bracket to remove it so that I can get the timing cover off.

Thanks for your response to my question, still need an answer. The Haynes manual does not tell how to remove these bolts. I just says remove them. It would be nice to remove them if there was "enough room"!

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Someone

I understand your frustration. It also looks like you and I are not on the same page. Review of the procedures as attached, doesn't show there is a problem. Obviously, you are having one and it is a frustrating one. So, lets make sure you and I are talking about the same bracket.

In the information I am reviewing, my first pic, item #4 is the engine mount bracket that needs to be removed based off the procedures. One of the bolts is what I have circled.

Now based off of the pic, which one, bracket are you taking about? Copy it, circle it or mark it somehow so I know what you are looking at.

I have also attached several other pics of mounts etc

I have also attached the first few parts of the removal in my manual.

Let me know what you see/are looking at and maybe I can better help.

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Forgot the to attach the first part of the removal.

REMOVAL
Pre-removal Operation:

Crankshaft Pulley Removal.
Follow removal steps outlined in illustration.

Removal Service Points
Power Steering Oil Pump Disconnection.
Remove the power steering oil pump from the bracket with the hose attached.

NOTE: Place the removed power steering oil pump in a place where it will not be a hindrance when removing and installing the timing belt, and tie it with a cord.

Engine Mount Bracket Assembly Removal.
Place a garage jack against the engine oil pan with a piece of wood in between, jack up the engine so that the weight of the engine is no longer being applied to the engine mount bracket, and then remove the engine mount bracket.

The bracket they are talking about is number 4

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

SOMEONE

MEMBER
3 POSTS

So sorry, my mistake. You and I are now on the same sheet of music. You were right with your first response and the diagram you circled to # 4 the engine support bracket. That is the bracket I'm talking about. I just did'nt realize by the picture that the engine support is the little piece sitting inside the bracket on the diagram. That bracket has some extremely long bolts that when backed out go up against the firewall. I can see your manual that you inserted says the same thing my haynes manual says. "Jack up the engine with a piece of wood under the oil pan and remove the bracket". I got to that point and backed out the bolts up against the fire wall, and theres still about an inch of bolt yet to back out, but no room to back them out. I did get one bolt out but the other 2 or 3 bolts (I think theres 4 bolts) have no room to back out when your up against the firewall. I've never seen anything like this before. Like I said, I tried raising the engine on the jack after I removed the engine support. (I got the engine support off just fine.) Now the bracket, I tried raising the engine to clear the firewall to get the rest of the bolt out of the bracket. No luck there, you can only raise the engine so far and it's nowhere near enough to clear the firewall to get the bolts out. I appreciate all your help. Maybe I'm not raising the engine far enough, but I cannot believe that. I raised it to the point I felt resistance, any furthur would surely break something.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

IMPALASS

MECHANIC
3,112 POSTS

Hello -

Okay....... Lets take a deep breath, stand back, and take a sip of coke and relook.

Is it necessary to totally remove them..... By that can they all loosen and you pull the bracket out with the bolts still in the bracket? All they have to do is come out of the cover... Right?

Now when you say "firewall" is it that or the fender well?

Okay..... Sorry gotta ask a dumb question because I can't tell from the pic... Is #4 on the upper or lower part?

Thanks for keeping me posted.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

208OMAR

MEMBER
3 POSTS
MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE

I have a 1998 mitsubishi eclipse I was about to take off when suddenly the car just turned off. I checked the engine and found out that the timing belt had broken off. Is it fixeble? About how much does it cost to get it fix? Also I have another engine that is the same as the one on the eclipse the only thing wrong with it are the heads. Can I take parts off that engine and put them on the engine in which the timing belt broke off?

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

CHERYL LAWRENCE

MEMBER
6 POSTS

I'm in a similar boat my friend. So, you're sure you weren'y actually in any real motion when it snapped? There is a good chance you didn't do much damage in which case all you have to do is replace the timing belt. It's not cheap, but it's less expensive then replacing the pistons, valves, head, and all that other junk that can get damaged when the belt snaps. You see, our little mitsu's are whats called "interferance" type engines so when your belt snaps chances are you totaled your car. (Meaning the repair cost is more then the current market value of your car) Hopefully since you weren't going fast (or not moving at all) nothing else was damaged. The average price in my area for just the belt is anywhere from $300-$750. Don't let them try and replace a bunch of other crap if you go in. They'll try and push a water pump on you and probably ask if you want them to "remove your head and check your pistons." Can you say expensive waste of time? Anyway, I would replace the belt ond hope it works. I'm concidering doing the same thing, but i'm more likely to have caused catostrophic damage since I was going about 90 then drifted god knows how far. Anyway, good luck. Hope I was helpful.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

JJSPETS2008

MEMBER
2 POSTS
1997 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE

Engine Performance problem 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 177000 miles

I changed my timing belt in my 97 eclipse its a DOHC 2.0L The problem Im having is the timing is off now and I do not know how to get it back in time I have lined up the timing marks again and again and still have had no luck in getting them to stay into place someone told me to put it in time by using the valves but Im not sure how to do it. Please if anyone can help me! I need to know step by step how to do this right.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

KEN L

MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
48,356 POSTS

Hello,

Here is a complete page of diagrams for your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/diagrams/mitsubishi/eclipse/1998

Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers, Ken

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM (Merged)

ALLEN707

MEMBER
10 POSTS
1995 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
17,000 MILES

I recently replaced my cylinder head because my timing belt slipped off bending the valves. I got everything back on started the car up and it immediately idles up to 5 goes down to 3000 rpm's and stays there. This is in neutral and 1st gear w/ the clutch depressed. Did not replace all the bolts back into the intake manifold or header manifold. About 2 in the intake an 3 on the exhaust header. Dnt really see how tht could affect the idle like that though

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:31 PM (Merged)

RIVERMIKERAT

MECHANIC
6,110 POSTS

HUGE vacuum and compression leaks. They give you a certain number of bolts, a specific torque setting, and specific torque pattern.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:31 PM (Merged)

ALLEN707

MEMBER
10 POSTS

I torqued the head down the rite way to 25lbs then to 50lbs and also in the correct sequence.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:31 PM (Merged)

RIVERMIKERAT

MECHANIC
6,110 POSTS

But you left bolts out. According to your original post. Missing bolts cause vacuum and exhaust leaks. These types of leaks cause extreme power loss and rough idling. Exhaust leaks can cause burned exhaust valves. Which means pulling the heads and at least replacing the valves, if not the whole head.

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Tuesday, May 26th, 2020 AT 8:31 PM (Merged)