Will not start after replacing the fuel filter

Thanks for the quick reply! I'll try your method with the ignition key in the morning. I do think it's a matter of being primed or possibly air in the line.

I'll keep you posted.

Thank you!

Hello.

I tried the key turning method with no luck. On recommendation from a friend who is a retired mechanic, I disconnected the outlet gas line to see if there was gas flowing through the filter. When I took off the line gas spurted out. So, there was pressure there. I then turned the key to see if the fuel pump was working, and yes, it is. Fuel squirted out as normal.

Still won't start. It's hard to determine whether it's still not fully primed if there's air in the system or something else altogether.

Please help!

Thank you!

And yes, I checked again to make sure the filter is installed in the proper position for correct flow.

I also - just for kicks - took out two spark plugs. Both had gas on the ends. Could it be flooded? If so, does the old method of holding the gas pedal to the floor while cranking still work?

Thank you! I'll dry off the plugs and try again. They are new plugs as of a week ago. I do have a misfire on cylinder 3, but the engine's been running pretty well in spite of it.

Back to you soon.

Dried out the spark plugs by wiping them off and setting them in the sun for almost two hours. Sun here in Nevada is intense, and we have very low humidity. There's also a good breeze blowing. I think they are dry.

Any particular method you recommend for attempting to start the engine so I don't re-flood the spark plugs?

Thanks! I have a meeting this morning and will try to start the engine after.

Will do.

Hello,

Still no luck. I pulled plug number one after about three tries to start the engine. It is indeed soaked in gas.

As an aside: About three years ago I had a problem with a 2004 Mitsubishi. One morning it just wouldn't fire up. I did a bunch of things, including replacing the fuel pump. Still no start. After some investigation into an unfamiliar light on the dash a car with a key through it. I found out simply changing the battery inside the ignition key was the magic switch.

I did that today in hopes it would work. It did not.

What's next?

I've had an ongoing misfire of cylinder #3 for months. I was told compression was less than half of normal. At first, it would idle down at stop lights, etc, and sometimes stall. I replaced plugs, ignition coils and cleaned the throttle body. The misfire was still there, but no longer had problems with stalling. RPMs at idle in drive were at 600-700. The car ran well considering the misfire. At higher speeds it seemed to even out and was even "peppy". It was like that just before I replaced the fuel filter.

The filter change is very simple. It's accessible easily right under the driver's side door. Simple as it is, I consulted a few YouTube videos for the procedure. Both instructed to start the engine, pull the fuel pump fuse and wait till the engine stops, thus releasing pressure in the line. I did all that, changed the filter (the old one rattled) replaced the fuse and the engine wouldn't start. In both videos it only took the normal loading of the fuel line (key to on and wait for the fuel pump to stop) to start the engine.

One thing I noticed was that each vehicle in the videos stopped running within just a few seconds of pulling the fuse. Mine kept running for maybe up to 15 seconds before it stopped. This made me think the line wasn't primed enough and needed more fuel. I probably flooded it myself trying to prime the system.

I did remove the line from the fuel filter to the engine and there was decent pressure. While the line was off, I also turned the key to "on" so the fuel pump would run. Which it did, again with decent pressure. Fuel came squirting out of the filter.

My difficulty with checking fuel pressure is I haven't been able to locate the valve. Given the engine has direct injection, I think the fuel rail is under the cylinder head with the fuel injectors.?

Please let me know your thoughts.

Per my message from this morning, I checked two plugs: #1 and #5. #1 was dry, #5 had just a tiny bit of gas on the rim where the threads start - the firing portion was dry. I want to give it a try, but I need to hear your recommendation first. I don't want to mess up what I may have finally corrected.

Thanks, Brian

Hello Kenny!

Thanks for the reply! My previous contact - Brian - and I went through much of what you recommend. After drying the plugs, I did use the "gas pedal to the floor" method with no result. But yesterday morning after I checked the plugs to see if they were wet and they were not. Not receiving further instruction, I tried to start the vehicle in the normal way - key to on position, then crank after fuel pump quit. No luck. I stayed at it for while going back to the pedal to the floor and still no luck.

The plugs were new. About a week old. But I can see what you're saying about them getting fouled. It's definitely worth buying another new set if it will do the trick. How do you recommend I proceed with the new plugs? Attempt to start normally, or begin with the clear flood method?

I appreciate your help!

Gary