How to view them?
Jul 23, 2023 at 9:18 AM
Flashing security warning on dash, no crank, no click
1998 BUICK LESABRE
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Joe, I cannot see the pins from my vantage point when I insert the MiniFuse.
How to view them?
How to view them?
Hi,
Would you be able to use a mechanic's mirror to see? That is what I would try. If that doesn't work, things need to be taken apart to see it.
Let me know.
Joe
Would you be able to use a mechanic's mirror to see? That is what I would try. If that doesn't work, things need to be taken apart to see it.
Let me know.
Joe
Jul 23, 2023 at 11:41 AM
The MiniFuse panel has very small openings at rear for insertion of circuit wires, and the front exposes only the tips of the two panel-to-fuse contacts-- the two bright metal reflections in the photo I attached.
Every socket, when its MiniFuse is removed, reveals the same two metal contacts, but with no more access to socket housing.
The eBay photos provided do not seem relevant to the Buick 98 LeSabre.
Although I have an extensible, small mirror, I do not have the option to take apart the MiniFuse panel, itself, so even a junkyard panel would not improve the situation.
The MiniFuse panel appears glued to the left dash''s lower shroud, but I have tried the "wiggle test" to see whether I can find any seam or "snap-to" channel.
Thanks for the ideas, but the best approach may be to make sure all MiniFuse spares and those in use are of the thick conductor metal, which seem much more securely grasped by the socket fingers.
And to keep the panel access door closed at all times. Maybe the GM engineers understood the problem, already.
Every socket, when its MiniFuse is removed, reveals the same two metal contacts, but with no more access to socket housing.
The eBay photos provided do not seem relevant to the Buick 98 LeSabre.
Although I have an extensible, small mirror, I do not have the option to take apart the MiniFuse panel, itself, so even a junkyard panel would not improve the situation.
The MiniFuse panel appears glued to the left dash''s lower shroud, but I have tried the "wiggle test" to see whether I can find any seam or "snap-to" channel.
Thanks for the ideas, but the best approach may be to make sure all MiniFuse spares and those in use are of the thick conductor metal, which seem much more securely grasped by the socket fingers.
And to keep the panel access door closed at all times. Maybe the GM engineers understood the problem, already.
Jul 24, 2023 at 3:25 AM
Hi,
Chances are you are correct. As far as pics, did you attach pictures of the box or something you got online? I ask because nothing is showing.
Let me know.
Joe
Chances are you are correct. As far as pics, did you attach pictures of the box or something you got online? I ask because nothing is showing.
Let me know.
Joe
Jul 24, 2023 at 2:30 PM
Sorry, Joe, I did not realize you would read my "attached" comment as referring to this post. I should have written, "attached to a previous post".
The actual photo is re-attached, below.
The actual photo is re-attached, below.
Image (Click to enlarge)
Jul 25, 2023 at 4:30 PM
Disregard photo below. I had no option to remove it.
Image (Click to enlarge)
Jul 25, 2023 at 5:08 PM
Hi,
No problem whatsoever. I found something that may be of interest to you. Read through the pics I attached. I'm attaching them because it sounds very similar to what you are dealing with.
Let me know.
Joe
No problem whatsoever. I found something that may be of interest to you. Read through the pics I attached. I'm attaching them because it sounds very similar to what you are dealing with.
Let me know.
Joe
Images (Click to enlarge)
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Professional Diagram for 2CarPros Members
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Jul 26, 2023 at 12:33 PM
Similar, yes, in that the ignition key Ohm value was correct,.
But different when my PCM suddenly no longer recognized the key resistor, which prevented me from testing any of the ignition pins. (Presuming the PCM stopped power to all pins)
That required me to bypass the entire VATS security circuit (orange-jacketed cable of two smaller, white wires) between PCM and ignition.
In the case you mention, the ignition switch no longer switched reliably on multiple pins, but in my case, the ignition continues to switch as it should with all pins but the PassLock2 security circuit.
However, every ignition switch eventually fails, so this will be instructive.
But different when my PCM suddenly no longer recognized the key resistor, which prevented me from testing any of the ignition pins. (Presuming the PCM stopped power to all pins)
That required me to bypass the entire VATS security circuit (orange-jacketed cable of two smaller, white wires) between PCM and ignition.
In the case you mention, the ignition switch no longer switched reliably on multiple pins, but in my case, the ignition continues to switch as it should with all pins but the PassLock2 security circuit.
However, every ignition switch eventually fails, so this will be instructive.
Jul 27, 2023 at 1:49 PM
Repair Safety Notice: This information is for general instructional purposes only. Vehicle repair can be dangerous. Verify all information, follow manufacturer service procedures, use proper tools and safety equipment, and consult a qualified repair shop when needed.