Flashing security warning on dash, no crank, no click

I have tried several of the OEM VATS system reset procedures in this article--
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

1. Driver's door key reset-- tried this several times, using the side lock entry key to reenter after locking all doors and exiting car, waiting at least 15 minutes while more than 10 feet distant.
2. Activate key fob-- this involves pressing the panic button, and I wanted to disable the horn, first, to avoid antagonizing my neighbors. Searched and found the horn relay in the Maxifuse box, but having trouble opening the two black plastic thumb-style connectors, one on either side of the fuse box. Do these connectors slide open, or should I twist, then try to slide them open?
3. Turn ignition on-- inserted and turned ignition key, tried to start, and left key in on for about 10 minutes-- the flashing security warning did not stop flashing after even 20 minutes. After the first cycle, in which the flashing warning did not disappear, I repeated the sequence, allowed 20 minutes, and the warning continued without interruption.
4. Remove alarm fuse-- this is a simple procedure, but I am waiting for an answer to question 2, so I do not break the access connectors.
5. Disconnect battery-- Sears installed battery, but with a side terminal connector which appeared to have been rounded off, so there is no reliable way to turn the connector without using vise-grip pliers. The concern is not removal of the connector, but the purchase of a new connector, first. The whole procedure takes only a few minutes.

Had you checked your email inbox? I sent my latest response September 23, according to the date line below my message text. Read that over, for my status as of last Thursday.
This past Saturday, September 25, I completed every technique 2CarPros suggested to bypass the GM security lockdown-- but the flashing "Security" warning continues.
Thanks for your suggestion for the part I need, but I already have purchased the battery terminal bolt (set of 2), and all on that concern has been taken care of.
If you refer to the original article I was given to read, to defeat the security lockdown, there are detailed procedures involving the valet key, the ignition key fob, the VATS fuse and disconnection of the negative battery terminal. In each case, I was careful to follow instructions carefully, but got no improvement in the situation.
During use of the ignition key technique, I attempted to start, and left the key in the ON position for 15 minutes. At no time did the security warning disappear.
During use of the valet key technique, I opened the car, rolled up all windows, made sure the trunk was secure, and relocked the car with the valet key. After waiting (with my key fob at least 20 feet away from the car for about 15 minutes, I opened the car with the valet key, but the security warning was still present.
Next, I withdrew the VATS alarm fuse (20a), and after about 15 seconds, reinserted it, but for no change the security warning.
Finally, I disconnected the negative battery terminal, installed the new battery terminal, but for no change in the security warning.
Today, I plan to try the resistor technique. Cutting into the VATS signal line (orange wire) running from the ignition to the general terminal connector assembly, The VATS signal line has two white wires, one from the below-dash terminal to the ignition, and the other from the ignition back to a second connector on the below-dash terminal. The idea is to make a short-circuit between the two below-dash attachment points, and solder into that short wire length a resistor rated at the Ohms of the pellet-based ignition key. In my case, my ignition key pellet displayed 1860 Ohms on my VOM, for which I plan to use a 2000 Ohm resistor.
Throughout, I have presumed my nightly charging of the battery would keep the battery at operating level, capable of a full l starting load. Each morning, when I have checked the battery maintainer, its LED glows green, to show a normal charge has been achieved and is being maintained. However, a charged battery is not necessarily capable of a full starting load. For that reason, I plan to take the battery today to a local auto parts store for a load test.
Summary
1. Install the appropriate resistor in the VATS ignition signal line.
2. Load test the existing 2-year old battery. (Walmart type 78S)

Response was sent as a reply to this original thread (above), dated September 23. My reference to "inbox" had to refer to this thread, because I do not have his email address.

In answer to the two questions, the battery load test was performed yesterday by Advance Auto, and the battery passed the test. A 2,000 Ohm VATS resistor will be installed ASAP, probably tomorrow.

Appreciate your follow up.

Hi,

As I prepared to cut the ignition security sensor (orange) cable this afternoon, I discovered there seems to be two orange wires under the dash. One orange wire runs from the below-cash connector assembly (located to the right of the below-dash fuse box, and directly below the steering column), and the other orange wire seems to emerge from behind the main wire mass/bundle, upward, toward the ignition switch. Now that I reconsider, this could be the same orange wire, seeming to run upward, then looping down into my view, before disappearing upward again, to connect with the ignition switch.
Until I take apart more of the under-dash panels, I cannot say, at this point.
I have included two photos for your comment.

Pics 3 and 4 for the anti-theft passkey circuit are the only diagrams that seem to apply to VATS and the ignition pellet key. Soon, I'll send photos of the actual wiring beneath the dash, in all their glorious colors (including orange) and all rendered in sharp focus.

Here is a photo of the under-dash fuse panel, and a frontal view of under-dash wiring. I hope to select the correct orange wire which controls the VATS system from the ignition key. As you will see immediately, these photos are much better quality than the two (above) which were sent earlier.
In the photo of under-dash wiring, I have drawn arrows to the prospective orange wire to be cut. Regarding "To Be Identified" orange wires 3 and 4, they emerge from the same black tape-wrapped wire bundle (to the left of the airbag's yellow wire). Wire 4 has been traced to the under-dash courtesy light (with small red plastic connector), and Wire 3 runs from the wire bundle to the EBD socket. From the photo, alone, neither of those seems part of the VATS ignition wire circuit. Your wiring schematic 3/4 may have clues I missed.
Your own confirmation/advice will make the critical difference before I cut any orange wire. Of course, I could cut by trial-and-error, but rather would plan ahead, than regret, later, when possible.
In the photo of the interior fuse panel, I provide you a reference photo for other questions, later, if the orange wire trick does not work.

Joe, thanks for the continued effort. As a (computer) tech support person, myself, I fully understand the task can be difficult. However, to be clear, I ask for only your advice, not to have you make the decision for me.

The immediate problem is to determine which orange wire leads to the ignition VATS module. What I plan to do is take apart the dash further and see whether I can trace physically the orange wire. Later, perhaps I can send a better photograph of the wiring paths.

Ideally, if I were able to go further into the steering column, I could do a continuity check between each of the orange wire(s) at the subdash connector panel and any orange wires going into the actual ignition switch area.

QUESTIONS--
Question 1-- Based on your reading of the ignition schematic, could the orange wire identified in my subdash wiring photo as wire 3, starting in the on-board diagnostics (EBD?) socket assembly, be involved in the VATS security system? If not likely, that leaves orange wires 1 and 2 as the only prospects, for now.

Question 2-- Is there any reason to leave the yellow airbag wire connected during my wire tracing movements? I don't want to strain the cable, and disconnection would prevent cable damage until I am ready to reconnect everything. However, you have more experience with the airbag circuitry than I, so I need to ask. Obviously, I don't want to trigger the airbag during my work (nor on re-connection of the airbag circuit connector).

Question 3-- Looking ahead, how can I release the starter relay retainer clips-- one each each side of the relay? I don't want to break the aging plastic retainer clips. Obviously, I cannot simply pull off the relay housing cube with a large-span pair of pliers (Channel Lock or Vise-Grip). Would you insert a flat-blade screwdriver beneath the clip? Is there a special puller for a plastic cube relay? Do you need a photo?

Question 4-- Fuse Panels
While the shifter was in PARK and ignition was on (all warning lights on), but the key released from its start engine position, I checked the interior subdash fuse panel fuses with a circuit/continuity checker. All of row 2 fuses (A through E) are off/out when I touch the two contacts on each fuse. (Since all row positions 2A-2E are labeled "spare", that presumably means they are not connected to any circuit). Fuse 2E, according to the Fuse Usage label on the fuse panel cover, is a red 10a spare for "AIRBAG/VATS". Of all active fuses in the panel, there is only a single fuse labeled "VATS" on row position 1A, and that fuse is on when I touch each of its two contacts with the circuit tester.

I have not yet checked the Maxifuse panel above the engine but have succeeded in opening the fuse panel cover without breaking the white, twist-open plastic connectors. My next step is to check all fuses in that panel, as well as its relays.
4a-- Should I switch the ignition key on during that fuse panel check?
4b-- What about the relays-- is there any way to check them without pulling the plastic cube from the panel for a physical continuity check?

Question 5-- when working to resolve a VATS lockdown, have you ever encountered a vehicle which did not work with any of the steps in the article 2CarPros offered here?
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Again, thanks for staying with this effort.

Still facing the flashing security warning, which indicates I have not defeated the security lockdown, and am still looking for the switch or condition responsible. Tomorrow, I take apart the dash further, so I can trace the under-dash wiring, and identify which of several orange wires is the ignition key resistance signal line.
As of this evening, I have tested all fusible links (both fuses and Maxifuses) with the ignition key on, and all are okay. Pending your answer to my question (above) about how to remove a relay which has retainer clips, I can remove and test all six of the under-hood relays with a circuit continuity checker. I realize, of course, a starting circuit relay does not seem directly related to a security lockdown condition, but it is one of the pre-diagnostic steps recommended by the OEM.
For your convenience, I have numbered the important issues and questions in the previous message. I encourage you to comment on each in as much detail as you like.

Today, I bought and downloaded a PDF of the GM service and repair manual for the Buick 1992-1998. After a brief look inside, I realize this may be the same resource you use. If this manual is also your own resource, you can refer me to a particular page (appreciate all the attachments you have provided with your messages and comments).

Thanks, Joe-- all your answers help. Below is my effort to understand your answers completely.

Q1-- Diagnostics port orange wire--
"DLC" means diagnostics port?
There are almost too many orange wires to count, which is the primary reason for going further into the dash wiring.

Q2-- Airbag cable and fuse 2E--
Since fuse 2E is labeled Airbag/VATS, can I do all sub dash and under-hood work with the airbag fuse removed, and with the yellow airbag cable disconnected?
That is, if fuse 2E controls VATS, as well, could that pose a problem?
> As I read your reply, so long as I am careful to disconnect both battery and fuse 30 minutes before removing the airbag cable (yellow) and the airbag fuse, I should be okay.

** On reconnection of battery and fuse 2E, I now understand I must connect the fuse and airbag (yellow) cable before reconnecting the battery. (Appreciate the warning about a surge and accidental airbag deployment)

> My urgent question about fuse 2E is whether this Airbag/VATS fuse 2E-- if bad and/or loose in its socket-- could trigger the Security warning and VATS lockdown. The red 10A fuse fits very poorly in its socket. I cannot feel a solid insertion when I press on the fuse top, so it may be going in crookedly. As your diagram #15 indicates, the fuse must be tested in ignition position start to be active. (Of all sub dash and under-hood fuses, this is the only active (non-spare) fuse on fuse row 2.)
> Since the ignition switch must be in start position to test fuse 2E, must I have somebody else to turn the ignition key while I probe the fuse? Without a remote starter cable, is there another way for me to switch the ignition key with one hand, and probe 2E with the tester? Incidentally, with the ignition key in "run" (but not start), I have no light on my continuity/circuit tester, which is expected.

Q3-- Starter enable relay--
Except for the starter enable relay, located under dash, relays are located in the under-hood fuse blocks (left and right). For your convenience, I have attached a photo of the row of under-hood relays, so you can see why I am puzzled by physical removal difficulty. I have not been able simply to pull the relay cube housing outward, despite wiggling it.
> Could a Security lockdown warning be triggered by a faulty starter relay? I realize the PCM is the source of all security actions but did wonder.

Q4-- "Starter enable relay fuse 2E"--
> I was not aware the starter enable relay had a fuse. Fuse 2E is labeled Airbag/VATS on the fuse cover inside label.
> On the relay, itself, I plan to test ASAP, although my attention has been focused on the VATS warning. As in Q3, above, I still need to determine how to remove the relay from its socket, it order to test the relay on all its contact points. Even if the relay clicks when power is applied, could it still be faulty?

Q5-- Security system reset failure--
Have you heard any comments about this PCM bypass device? --
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=rockies+ignition+bypass&atb=v293-3&ia=web

Since I doubt, I can afford this device ($297.00), I wonder what other bypass devices for the PCM are on the market. When I searched, I did not find any, which explains the high price of the device.

Your answer arrived just as I revised and sent to you my latest message, above, timed 4:11pm. Please look over the revised message, and I'll concentrate on the fuse 2E. If I find a 2E socket problem, can that fuse socket be repaired from beneath the dash? I may have to remove the entire fuse socket panel/block.
Summary--
1. Check fuse 2E
2. Send to you a photo of the under-hood relays, and a close-up of their plastic housing retainer clips.

Thanks, Joe.

Joe,

As promised--
1. Fuse 2E is okay on both contact points-- somehow, I was able to hold the probe with one hand and try to start the engine with the other hand.
2. Attached are photos of the left and right under-hood Maxi fuse and relay panels. And a photo of the starter relay plastic housing clip that resists being opened. On that, I need to know how you would pull out the relay-- use a special tool, or continue pulling and wiggling?