No Spark

ASD relay will supply the power to coil
it depand on the crank sensor

Auto shutdown relay is at the fender left side

check /replace the crank sensor

My head is spinning. You need to use some punctuation so the sentences make sense. Also, by "fire" do you mean "voltage" or are some wires melting or overheating? There will not be any voltage to the coil unless the engine is rotating, (cranking or running).

Have you checked for fuel pressure? There are three separate but related systems. Most no-start problems are caused by the trigger circuit that turns on the ignition coil, injectors, and the fuel pump.

Caradiodoc

The 3.0L is not an interference engine so the valves won't be damaged.

The trigger circuit is the optical pickup assembly in the distributor, (camshaft position sensor), and the crankshaft position sensor. He lives in the transmission housing right behind the rear cylinder head, close to the firewall. When pulses arrive from those two sensors, the Engine Computer knows the engine is rotating so it turns on the automatic shutdown relay and the fuel pump relay. The ASD relay sends voltage to the ignition coil, injectors, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters.

You know the fuel pump circuit is working because you can hear it run for a few seconds. The ASD relay should be turning on at the same time. Use a test light or digital voltmeter to measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire in the connector for the ignition coil, an injector, or either of the small terminals on the back of the alternator. You should see 12 volts for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What's important is it must come back as soon as you start cranking the engine.

Caradiodoc

See if the distributor turns when your cranking it, the timing belt may have broke, the rubber teeth get stripped. Also you can use your 'check engine' light to check for fault codes. You turn the key to on, off, on, off, on and wait, the check engine light will flash. A short flash followed by a pause and two flashes would be a 12. Each code number means something else. Also the fuse links are located under the hood, follow the battery positive cable as it travels towards the left strut you'll see a bunch of taped up fusible links, these are the engine compartments fuses. You'll need a 6-12 volt test light.

Yup. 12 volts for one second at key-on, and 12 volts again during cranking.

Have you checked for stored diagnostic fault codes? Cycle the ignition switch 3 times from "off" to "run" within 5 seconds, then, on older cars you have to count the flashes of the Check Engine light. I think by '97 the codes are displayed in the digital odometer display. There should be a code if the Engine Computer detected the missing pulses from the cam or crank sensor.

Be aware too that a spacer is needed to set the air gap of the crankshaft position sensor. Original sensors use a thick paper spacer stuck to the end, then you push the sensor in as far as it will go. The spacer will slide off when the engine is started. You can get new ones from the dealer's parts department.

Some aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded on the end to set the gap. That rib partially wears away over time. To remove and reinstall that type of sensor you are supposed to cut the remaining rib off, then use the paper spacer.

In some cases, failure to use a spacer could cause the sensor to break from being hit by the ring on the torque converter.

Caradiodoc

That is fine, I am just glad you didn't have to waste the time looking further the way I did when I first started working with Chrysler at a Dodge dealership. If you need any further advice, anytime. Your very welcome, its 2carpros idea, I just visit to see if I can help since most of my experience was with Chrysler and I owned many just like yours(2.2l though). Have a good day and good luck, the belt teeth get wiped out, it looks ok but the crankshaft sprocket just spins while the belt sits there. This is usually the way they come in.

If you did that, the rotor is off by 90 degrees. If you look at the terminals under the cap, you'll see the tunnels where the conductors go to the terminals on top of the cap. They aren't straight above each other. That was done to make the plug wires look pretty by being in nice straight rows next to each other.

Caradiodoc