No Spark

At coil is there 12v+ on Dark green/orange at the coil, I would check the ASD relay which are common to go out. Here is a guide and the relay location below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Hi guys. Excuse me for jumping in here. The voltage is supposed to come back during engine rotation, cranking or running. That one second you saw the 12 volts is to run the fuel pump to be sure pressure is up for starting. When the voltage doesn't reappear during cranking, suspect the crankshaft position sensor or camshaft position sensor.

I'll go back to the sidelines now and wait to find out what the fix is. Carry on.

Caradiodoc

I never replaced a cam sensor but the crankshaft position sensor's air gap is critical. New Chrysler sensors used to come with a paper spacer stuck to the end. It set the gap and just slid off the first time the engine was cranked. Some aftermarket sensors have a plastic rib molded onto the end that wears off very quickly. That rib sets the gap initially. If that type of sensor is removed and reinstalled, the remaining part of the rib is supposed to be cut off and the paper spacer is used. I used to cut those paper spacers in half and just used one part so I could save the other part to use on another engine. You can get the spacers at the dealer's parts department. I don't know if they're available at other auto parts stores.

I did read where one fellow found that his new sensor was broken because he didn't use a spacer and it hit the outer ring on the flexplate.

I have a '95 Grand Caravan, and until a few months ago, I didn't even know it had a cam sensor. If you want to try to test it and the crank sensor, the feed wire to both will have either 8.0 or 10.0 volts with the ingition switch on. If it is missing, unplug the two sensors and remeasure to see if the voltage comes back. The Engine Computer will shut the power supply down to protect it. You'll have to cycle the ignition switch off and back on to reset it. If the voltage disappears again when one of the sensors is plugged back in, it is shorted.

If the supply voltage is there, measure the ground wires. Expect to find 0.2 volts. If it is a lot higher, look for a break in the wire or a corroded splice. The signal wires are harder to measure with a digital voltmeter because the display will bounce around a lot. If the voltage stays solidly at 0 or 5.0 volts, that sensor is likely not working. A better way to tell if the sensors are working is if you have access to one of the Chrysler scanners, they will display "yes" or "no" for each sensor to indicate if the signals are being received during cranking. I use both the DRB2 and DRB3 scanners. You can find the DRB2 at car show swap meets or on eBay for not too much money. The DRB3 is overkill for most people's needs but they are available over the internet or from the dealer's parts department. The newer models will only work on vehicles back to 1998. To go back further, there is a plug-in card that lets it work on cars back to 1994 and all brands of cars 1996 and newer with the OBD2 emissions system. A different card lets it work on just Chrysler products back to 1983 models. The DRB2 uses plug-in cartridges which are different for most years. The last "Supercartridge" covered all years of all domestic cars and trucks up to 1994 models, but that '94 cartridge works fine on my '95 Caravan.

I'll hand you back to Docfixit. I didn't mean to butt into your conversation. Just wanted to add a little info so you had something to check while waiting for his reply.

Caradiodoc

In engine compartment box find ASD relay also fuel pump relay. Swap relays if you get spark then replace ASD relay.

A broken chain would cause loss of spark. However, you would know if it broke when cranking. It would turn faster than normal and sound odd. Check for power to the coil and check crank sensor. If you already have, let me know what size engine it is.

What do you have for engine size?

Measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil, any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see battery voltage there for one second after turning on the ignition switch. What you need to see is if that voltage comes back during engine rotation, (cranking or running).

That voltage comes from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which is turned on by the Engine Computer. The computer also turns on the fuel pump relay at the same times. That initial one second is to insure fuel pressure is up and ready for starting in case it bled down over a few days or weeks.

After that first one second, the computer turns the ASD relay on again when it gets pulses from the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The purpose of the system is to turn off the fuel pump in the event of a crash that ruptures a fuel line. The engine will stall with no fuel pressure so there won't be any pulses from the cam and crank sensors. With no pulses, the fuel pump is turned off to prevent dumping raw fuel on the ground. This system is WAY more reliable and effective than Ford's inertia switch. The alternator field, injectors, ignition coil(s), and oxygen sensor heaters all get their current from the same source so all of those systems go dead when the ASD relay doesn't turn on.

Since you had stuff apart, be sure both sensors are plugged in. Also, a thick paper spacer must be used to set the air gap of the crank sensor. Without it, the sensor can be pushed in too far where it will hit the flex plate and break. If it's spaced out too far, the pulses will be weak and can cause intermittent stalling. If you reinstall an aftermarket sensor that had a thin plastic rib molded to the end to set the gap, you are to cut the remaining part of that rib off and use a paper spacer.

Engine size?
Did you check/replace the crankshaft sensor
Crankshaft sensor is mounted on tranny bell housing
computer use it signal for ignition signal and spark timing