No spark

The P601 is an inability to control memory so I don't think that will cause a no start. It still sound like a crankshaft angle sensor or the ASD relay is not working.

Here is a guide that will get you going in the right direction.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Check the ASD by using this guide

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Also, check for voltage on the wire feeding the coil pack, (dark green / orange, I think), any injector, or either small wire on the back of the alternator. You should see 12 volts there for just one second when a helper turns on the ignition switch. That voltage should come back during cranking. If you never see voltage there, swap the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay with a different one and try again. If you have voltage for that first second, the relay is okay. If it doesn't reappear during cranking, the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor circuits must be diagnosed.

The crankshaft position sensor must be installed with a spacer to set the critical air gap. It requires either a thick paper spacer from the dealer or some aftermarket sensors have a thin plastic rib molded to the end.

Here is the relay and fuse locations (Below)

You can't measure resistance in a powered-up circuit. If you found voltage on the feed wire to the injectors and coil pack, the Engine Computer turned on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That means it got pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Those are the pulses that tell it when to fire an injector and coil.

Originally you said there was no spark. Do you have it now? How did you check the coil pack?

I never checked the resistances of the coil. It's unlikely all three would fail at once. If one fails, you'll just have two cylinders not firing.

The best way to approach this is to use a scanner that displays live sensor data, then watch the cam and crank sensor signals to see if they're listed as "no" or "present". I think you're going to find one of them missing.

Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help

Cheers

Mark ASD relay and switch it with a similar relay
check fuses
suspect and check crank sensor

Check starting and but bad than I would look for a coil problem
if crank sensor bad it will not start at all or it will start and than stall and die
check fuel pressure

1. Possible causes for DTC to set are: defective ignition coil No. 3, defective PCM, or defective connectors or wiring.

2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ignition coil connector. Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, actuate Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay. Using a test light connected to ground, probe Brown/White wire at ignition coil harness connector. If test light illuminates brightly, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate brightly, repair open or high resistance in Brown/White wire between ASD relay and ignition coil. ASD relay is located in Integrated Power Module (IPM). IPM is located on left side of engine compartment, next to battery.
3. Using a test light connected to positive battery voltage, probe Dark Blue/Orange wire at ignition coil harness connector while cranking engine for 5 seconds. If test light does not blink/flicker, go to next step. If test light blinks/flickers, replace ignition coil.
4. Turn ignition off. Ensure ignition coil is disconnected. Disconnect PCM connectors. PCM is located on left side of engine compartment, near front of battery. Measure resistance of Dark Blue/Orange wire between ignition coil harness connector and terminal No. 2 at PCM C1 harness connector. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair open in Dark Blue/Orange wire.
5. Measure resistance between ground and Dark Blue/Orange wire at ignition coil harness connector. If resistance is 100 k/ohms or more, go to next step. If resistance is less than 100 k/ohms, repair short to ground in Dark Blue/Orange wire between ignition coil and PCM.
6. At this time, PCM is assumed to be defective. Replace PCM. Program the new PCM. See PROGRAMMING.
7. At this time, conditions for DTC to set do not exist or fault is an intermittent problem. Start engine and allow it to idle. Ensure engine is at normal operating temperature. Using scan tool, monitor parameters related to DTC while wiggling connectors and wiring harness. If value changes while wiggling connectors and wiring harness, repair connectors and wiring harness where wiggling caused value to change. If value does not change, review Freeze Frame data using scan tool. Attempt to duplicate condition that caused DTC to set. Check for any related technical service bulletins that may apply. Visually inspect related connectors and wiring harness. Repair connectors and wiring harness as necessary

No sparky

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

Are you saying the computer is between the tire and the inner fender?

That is why you have no spark. Have you checked the relay?