Cranks but will not start

Tiny
CHRISTA DICKSON
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  • 141 POSTS
Pulling 2 codes p0110 accelerator pedal position sensor circuit a. And a p1120 manufacturer malfunction which I am unsure on what it is. But I am sure it is related to throttle-body and if I am correct that still would not cause a no start right? I am trying to just focus on one thing at a time.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2019 AT 9:14 AM
Tiny
CHRISTA DICKSON
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Okay, so I am not seeing a flash from noid light but am getting power to black and white cable. The fuses checked out fine. I also borrowed a live data scanner from a friend but unsure how to check the crank signal on it. I will look that up now.
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2019 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Okay, if you have power to the black and white, now you need to go to the Engine Control Module and check the connection. The ECM is on the left side of the engine compartment in the ECU box. Check pins 1 - 4 in connector E2. Also, pins 5 -6 in connector E3.

I attached schematic pictures. The highlighted wires are coming from the injectors. Now, you have power to the black and white wire. The ECM provides a ground to each injector at specific times and completes the circuit causing the injector to fire. If there are no visible problems, you will need to check the ECM for ground when cranking. If the ECM doesn't provide ground, there may still be a problem with the cam sensor or the ECM is bad,

Make sure you disconnect the battery for a few minutes before disconnecting the ECM and don't reconnect the battery until the plugs are plugged back in.

Let me know what you find.
Joe
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Wednesday, January 16th, 2019 AT 8:44 PM
Tiny
CHRISTA DICKSON
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I am sorry but I do not clearly understand the directions that you gave for testing the ECU and I don't want to mess anything up. So if you could please break it down for me one more time. I'm going to test that today and then if I can't get it going or getting results of that I'm going to go ahead and probably try to get a friend to bring a trailer and tow it to the shop. But I didn't really understand your directions how am I supposed to test it while cranking without the battery at the same time. I'm sure I just misunderstood you, but if you could please provide detailed instructions on how to test the ECU I would really appreciate it. Because I don't really understand and I do not want to mess anything up. Do I do this with a test light? If you can break it down for me with detailed directions on how to test I would appreciate it. Thanks
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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2019 AT 4:05 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi Christa:
The battery should be disconnected prior to removing the ECM connector. Once removed, you can reconnect the battery and check the pins indicated above for ground while the engine cranks. Before you reconnect the ECM to the connector, disconnect the battery again. Basically, you don't want to connect or disconnect the ecm plug while the battery is connected.

Basically, you are checking to see if the ECM provides ground for the injectors. If you check for continuity, it should jump between an open circuit and closed (indicating ground).

Let me know if that makes sense. I wish I could be there to help.

Take care and let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2019 AT 5:29 PM
Tiny
CHRISTA DICKSON
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I'm sorry for the late response but just wanted to give you guys an update. It ended up being water in the fuel line I had noticed it smelled kind of diluted and had drain the tank from the boat at the bottom of the tank but not the lines up near the front. I guess that made all the difference in the world. Got taken to a mechanic that's what he said the problem was he said he did that and it started up. Don't know what's don't know exactly how that happened. If when I ran out of gas with the so-called friend if somehow they had something to do with it when I sent them to the gas station and get gas or if it was just really bad gas from a gas station. I did stop at a small one but that seems kind of unlikely to me. I don't really know dude was really expensive the mechanic and seemed kind of shady needless to say I won't be using him again. I have a weird question about how to do the camshaft seal on my 1998 Lexus GS300 and it where it's located and how easy it is to access? I've noticed that there is now a small oil leak and I can see it wet after going on long drives or shiny they only in around the alternator area. I've been trying to narrow it down and find the source of that and I've made sure it's not the valve gaskets and it's not where the oil filter is at. So that would be the only other place correct? Would appreciate a response whenever you get a chance. Thanks again for all your help.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
CHRISTA DICKSON
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I'm sorry that message was really crappy. I used talk to text and should have went over and read it before I sent but I hope you get the just of it. If I could get a response on anywhere else on that car that could possibly leak oil and how hard it is to repair would be great.
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Tuesday, April 2nd, 2019 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back:

I hate to ask this, but can you start a new thread related to the oil leaks and cam seals? We are trying to keep all threads consistent with one focus so it helps others.

I will watch for your reply.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2019 AT 6:47 PM

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