Cranks but will not start

Hi:

I watched the video. It should go right in. Make sure there is nothing blocking it from seating. Also, step back and determine what is hitting that is not allowing you to get the right position. It is something stupid, I can almost guarantee it. Also, compare the new sensor to the one you replaced. Make certain it is exact.

I will be on here for awhile yet tonight, so I will keep checking for your reply. Let me know what you find.

Also, you mentioned about a hose under the intake. Can you upload which hose you are referring to?

I have to tell you. Up to this point, it looks like you have done an excellent job. I have people working for me that are not that organized and neat about things. Just do not get frustrated, try again, step back and think what could be preventing you from getting it, and I bet you figure it out. There really is no trick. When installing it, try to turn it back and forth while applying light pressure.

I will keep my eye open for your reply.

Joe

Hi Christa, it is Joe:

Your video is fine, but I cannot be sure what I am looking at. I am sorry However, lets try this a different way. Attached, I have put a total of four pictures. The first three are an exploded view of the top of the engine including the intake and all components. The last picture is of the evap system (vacuum routing). Take a look through that and see if you can identify any of the specific parts. The first three pictures are actually of the same schematic in the manual. I had to break it into there otherwise, you would not have been able to read it. I made sure to overlap each picture so you can see where it continues. If something is not clear or you need verification, let me know.

Also, did you compare the sensor to the original one? It should fully seat. Since you got it in that far, it should seat. I am questioning if it is different that the original one.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Christa:

Is it still pulling the same code with the new parts?

Okay, if you were here with the car, these are the things I would do and most likely in this order.

1) pull a couple spark plugs to see if they are wet or dry. If wet, suspect too much fuel pressure, bad coolant temperature sensor, pressure regulator problem, sticking injectors.

2) Check and confirm fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs.

3) If pump pressure was within spec, confirm a good hot spark to the plugs. Also, if you have a live data scanner, confirm a constant signal from the crankshaft position sensor while cranking.

4) Next, with a live data scanner, confirm the coolant temp sensor is accurate and not sending bad information to the PCM.

5) If in number 1 I found the plugs were dry, I would test for an injector pulse to confirm they are working.

6) If everything checks good, I would most likely remove O2 sensors to make sure I don't have a plugged exhaust.

Will the engine start if you use starting fluid? Also, were you able to get the cam sensor to seat properly? That works in conjunction with the crankshaft position sensor for engine and injection timing.

Let me know.

Joe

Before replacing the injectors, I would first confirm the fuel pressure isn't too high. A bad regulator can cause it. Are you able to upload a picture of where you are seeing the leak?

Let me know what you find with the plugs. And yes, if it is dumping fuel, I would change the oil once you get this resolved.

Joe

Hi Christa:

If they are wet, either the plugs have a weak spark, the fuel pressure is too high, or the injectors are bad. However, it is odd that all would go at the same time. That leads me to believe either pressure is too high or the spark is weak.

With that in mind, check to see if the spark is a hot blue snapping spark. Also, check the pressure.

Let me know.

Joe

Hi Christa:

If you smell gas in the oil, then too much is getting put into the cylinders or the plugs are getting a hot enough spark to burn it. What happens is the raw fuel makes its way past the rings and into the oil.

Is there any reason to suspect a low compression issue?

Joe

Hi, Christa. I feel bad you are having so much trouble. I am going to do my best at trying to explain how this works.

First, on these vehicles, there should be power to each injector at all times. If you check, you will see a black/white wire going to each. That should have power with the key on. What happens is this. The power control module (PCM) provides a ground to each injector at specific times to complete the circuit. First, check if there is power to the black/white wire. If there is, then we may have a problem with the PCM. However, if there isn't power, I recommend checking a couple fuses. There is a 5 amp fuse on the driver's side junction box for the ignition. Check that and check the 25 amp EFI fuse in the engine room relay box. I have attached pictures for you to see. Also, I did my best to highlight the wires in question.

One last thing, check to make sure the ground in the engine area (black/white) wire is good and wasn't damaged. See the last picture I attached.

Do this and let me know what is found.

Take care, Joe

Welcome back:

Take a look at picture 1. Note that all the injectors are tied into the black and white wire. If the wire is damaged before it gets to the injector, none will work.

Stay warm and let me know what you find.

Joe

I'm sorry about that. Here it is.