Engine cranks but no start up?

Hello,

When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back. It sounds like the crankshaft angle sensor or fuel pump which both are common

Hello again,

All of the Direct Trouble Codes[DTC][s] are dealing with the either the wheel speed sensor or the ABS module. DTC 1805 is a DTC for the ABS module and the Power-train Control Module[PCM] not being configured to one another. This could be a problem with your vehicle's PCM. Ford uses the Crankshaft Position Sensor[CKP] for the spark and fuel injector timing on vehicles with coil packs and the Camshaft Position Sensor[CMP] for vehicle's with Coil On Plugs[COP][s] to do the same thing. The fact that you have installed a new CKP would also lead me to believe that your PCM may be bad. I have a 1997 Ford Mustang GT with a 4.6L engine and I just had to replace my PCM for a no start condition, and your engine operates the same as mine because mine also uses coil packs. The CKP is the only sensor that the PCM uses to start your engine. The way to check to see if the PCM is to blame is to disconnect the connector from the PCM. Using two small safety pins, straightened out, insert one into cavity 34[CKP -] and cavity 45[CKP +]. The small safety pins straightened out should fit snugly, but not damage the cavities of the PCM electrical connector. Do not force into the cavities. It will damage them and the electrical connector will then be no good. With a helper cranking the engine look for a rising and failing voltage reading from your Digital Multi-meter [DMM] with the the red probe touching the safety pin in cavity 45 and the black touching the safety pin in cavity 34. If you get a voltage reading then the PCM is bad and if you do not then the problem is either the CKP or the wires going from the CKP. I have included the Power-train Management wiring diagram with the CKP wires highlighted for you in the diagrams down below as well as a description of DTC C 1805 in the diagrams down below. Please do this diagnostic test and get back to us with what you find out and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

If you have a problem after replacing the PCM with the Passive Anti Theft System[PATS] immobilizer not allowing the engine to start, you might have to program the ignition keys to the new PCM. If so I have included the instructions for this in the diagrams down below. Please keep us informed as to how everything turns out and please, don't hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello again,

It can but requires special equipment. I have included the instructions in the diagrams down below. I hope that this helps.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros

Hello, I'm Danny,

It sounds like you might have a faulty or weak fuel pump the is not supplying enough fuel pressure to start or drive your truck. I would suggest performing a fuel pressure test. Here is a tutorial showing what is involved for testing fuel pressure:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

The correct fuel pressure for your truck is attached as a picture below. After performing this get back to us with the test results and we'll then help better diagnose. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

The idea that it will start without the relay tells me it is getting too much fuel. Removing the relay turns the fuel pump off. You need to start by checking fuel pump pressure to see if it is too high which would be the result of a bad fuel pressure regulator.

As far as the smoke, I am hoping it is caused from condensation. If it doesn't go away after it is running for awhile, you may have coolant getting into the combustion chamber from a bad head gasket.

Have it scanned for soft codes. It sounds like you'll need to tow it.

Check the spark plugs. Are they getting spark when cranking the engine? Insert a Philips screwdriver the way into the boot and hold the metal part of the screwdriver near a metal engine part while someone cranks the engine. You want to see a bright blue or white spark.

Prior to replacing the battery and the starter, did it turn over and so strongly (ruhruhruhruhruh), or did it sound old and tired (ruuuuh. Ruuuuuh. Ruuuuh-uhhh.) Doing so?

The attached image shows the camshaft position sensor location.

Cranks but no start condition:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark?

Swap the coil around and see what happens

Try the dealer-go here and get the basic idea on the cam sensor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtqeOYNgn8A