Engine no start problem?

Tiny
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The two wires are together and no way to jump them unless I insert clip into "A" slot and then try to ground to something. Also, there is no other relay to swap the fuel pump relay with. The only other one oin the box has 4 prongs. Fuel pump relay has 5 prongs.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Well the tan wire is the one that needs to be grounded....... The black is the ground..... So you have a black and tan wire in the same clip?
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
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Yes, they are in the same clip
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

If I understood you earlier you still have on black wire sitting there in A pin... So ground that to the black/tan and see if that works.

Does that look like a dealer splice or a home one
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
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Looks like it is original dealer wire. No splice in wire, but everything else is messy. Not the way my dad taught me to do things
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
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The black wire in A pin is paired up with the tan wire, The two of them are in the A pin together with no splices anywhere. It seems to be factory, not home wired.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
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By the way....... You are sure you are getting spark....... You might pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark on a couple of the plugs.

I don't want to stay so focused on the fuel we overlook something else... So let's rule that out.

You don't happen to have an electric fuel pump sitting around do you?

I am thinking and reviewing the wiring on that DLC again.....
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:31 PM
Tiny
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No don't have a pump hanging around, But will try to check for good spark. It has been running a little rough for a while. When I did the spark plugs a few months ago, I could only get to 5 of them. The last one in back, toward the driver side was inaccessible. It seems that I have to move the engine to get to it. No combination of tools would help.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:44 PM
Tiny
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Checked 4 out of six plugs-fire is bright blue and abundant!
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

I believe the pump is going out.......I always replace the relay when I do the pump.

It would be nice to be able to get a fuel pressure check on it.

My thought with the spare fuel pump though I don't recommend it often... The last Chevy Blazer that died about 100 yards from the garage... Uphill...I took a spare electric fuel pump, removed the valve stem in the fuel rail..... Put one end of the fuel pump there and the other in a gas container, grabbed the fire extinguisher, connected the battery to it..... It fired right up... Drove it into the garage..... So that was a clear sign the fuel pump was bad.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Well then - I would have to say fuel....... Since it was running I am going to assume the wiring isn't a factor.

The pump can be gradually losing volume/pressure thus the rough running at times.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 1:56 PM
Tiny
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Going to get pump and relay. I'll try one than the other. I will let you know. Thanks friend!
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 2:01 PM
Tiny
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Hello -

Well my friend...I will be looking forward to hearing from you...

You might consider getting some rubber hose to replace any that is there once the tank is down. Preventive maintenance for later.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 2:04 PM
Tiny
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Got the relay, pump, screen and fuel filter. Replaced the relay, ran it for 5 minutes-shut it off, started it and it ran for 45 seconds. Tank is in the middle of car under the rear seat, fuel filter in front of tank. I'm going to need my son's help with this one. I'll try to do most of it todaybut it will probably go into saturday. I have to work tomorrow. Thanks again. Will keep you posted.
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 3:06 PM
Tiny
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Well Henny

I looked across about 288 TSBs for you car. . .. . ...didn't see anything of concern with the fuel tank drop etc.

However, you may have some recalls on your vehicle. A couple to me a pretty important. Seat belt, control arm etc. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.

96C27
04/02/1996
Campaign - Redundant Radio Controls in Steering Wheel

95C08
10/21/1994
Campaign - A/T Defective 2nd Clutch Reaction Plate

97023
06/03/1997
Recall - Rear Seat Belt Anchor Plate

NHTSA97V065000
04/18/1997
Recall 97V065000: Rear Seat Belt Replacement

97003
03/01/1997
Recall - Windshield Wiper Switch Defective

NHTSA97V017000
02/04/1997
Recall 97V017000: Washer/Wiper Defect

NHTSA94V23000
11/14/1994
Recall 94V23000: Ball Joint Mount Defect

NHTSA94V230000
11/14/1994
Recall 94V230000: Suspension Lower Control Arm Failure

Looks like you have all of the goodies for the tank drop. . ..good luck on that. . .. . .. . ...

And you do have the 12 pin DLC not the 16 pin correct. . .. . .. . .


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_42140733_1.jpg



I am still trying to search around to see why the wiring is that way. . .. . .

The diagrams only show4 wires. . .. . ...Black in the A pin, Gray in the D pin, Dark Green in the J pin and Tan in the M.

And there isn't any wires not really hanging but caught up in the wiring that should be in the connector?

Thanks again for the pics. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .. . .

You must have been running back and for to the computer. . .. . .. . .. . ..enjoyed working with you today. . .. . .. . ..

Try to have a great New Years day. . .. . .. . .. . .. . ...

I'll be looking forward to hearing from you. . .. . .. . .. . .
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Thursday, January 1st, 2009 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
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Hello Henny

I was just checking to see if you had made any progress with the tank drop and if the problem was taken care of.
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Monday, January 5th, 2009 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
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Hi, No I didn't drop the tank yet. Someone had told me that I could be having a problem with the MAS sensor and to check the pressure at the fuel rail before I drop the tank. Will try to do it this week. I need to check that out. I have been working and haven't had the time to check it out as well as my old faithful dog of 14 years having to be put down last weekend. It's been a long two weeks. Thanks for remembering and writing back.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
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Hi Henny

I am very sorry to hear about your dog. You are the second person this week that has lost a dear pet.........

Well, the only way I show to check that sensor is by the codes that you cannot check.

I have attached info on it for you.........

MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR (MAF). Mounted ahead of the throttle body on multiport fuel injected engines, this sensor monitors the volume of air entering the engine. The sensor uses either a hot wire or heated filament to measure both airflow and air density.
MAF Sensor Strategies: The sensing element in MAF sensors can be easily contaminated causing hard starting, rough idle, hesitation and stalling problems.

Another way to check the fuel pump was to spray starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it wants to run.......
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 8:32 PM

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