Starter not working?

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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That is an old fashion alarm thing, I would take the out first thing, follow the wires back and just connect the wires the way they were originally made.

What troubles were you having when you were uploading?
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Saturday, May 21st, 2016 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Im sorry I didnt understand. What thing do I take off? The whole slot?
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Saturday, May 21st, 2016 AT 12:00 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Yes take the whole thing off, follow the wires to were they go and hook them up directly. You will see its easy.
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Saturday, May 21st, 2016 AT 12:03 PM
Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Ok I have a dilema. I disconnected the six little wires going into the slot box you saw in the picture, and they come down under the dash. But I have no idea how they were originally connected. This is what it looks like right now. Any ideas?
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Monday, May 23rd, 2016 AT 12:55 PM
Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Here
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Monday, May 23rd, 2016 AT 12:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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You must follow the black wires back to where they connect to the harness and look for the same colors, connect the same color wires together, the car should start. I cant remember if they go to a box or not, the idea is to just remove the whole thing and put the harness back to the way it was.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2016 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
JUANEMMANUEL
  • MEMBER
  • 48 POSTS
Sorry for the late reply. Problem fixed! I didn't actually end up doing anything with those wires that go into that kill switch. This guy came over with a test light (as you originally suggested) and he traced the lack of power all the way to the crazy jungle of wires under the dash. He told me to cut the two big wires that plugged into the aftermarket alarm system/box and splice them together (the way they were originally). I did and she fired right up! However he also found another problem that might've been affecting it too. The negative cable to the battery wasn't grounded properly. When he contacted the big and small terminals on the starter with a screwdriver, he noticed a spark where the negative cable is grounded with a nut to a stud on the ignition control module bracket. It was pretty loose but we tightened it, then I spliced those two cables under the dash, and she lived again. The only downside is that now the alarm doesn't work, but after 3 weeks without my car I couldn't care less. Thanks a lot for all your help. Keep up the good work.
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Friday, May 27th, 2016 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,643 POSTS
So glad to hear you got the problem fixed, we are always here and ready to help, please come back when you need us again.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, May 28th, 2016 AT 8:29 AM
Tiny
DIRTYGERTIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,000 MILES
We are stumpted on this one. We have changed the gas tank, the fuel relay, the sending unit, the fuel pump, and the fuel filter. The car cranks over fine, some times you can hear the pump kick in, some times you cannot. One time I got it running and took it for a drive. I got about 15 miles away, and it died on me. I could not get it to start, it cranks over, but won't start. I left the car for a day, and went to go get it, and then it started. It has to be something with a sensor, what do you think?
Cannot trust my Buick.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge during one of these episodes. If none, then the ECM may not be picking up an ignition signal from the ign. And shutting off the FP.

You can hook up a inductive timing light to the wires to see if you are getting spark, If not then I would suspect the ign. Module.

If you are getting spark you could bypass the relay by connecting terminal "G" of the ALDL to 12V.
If it runs then the relay is bad or possibly the back up oil pressure sender circuit.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIRTYGERTIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
I finally found my problem! As I was taking the coil packs off, I found that one of the spark plugs were all corroded on one of the coil paks. I still took off the Ignition Control Module and took it in to have it tested, it tested okay. So I knew it had to be the coil pack. It has only been a couple days now, but I think I found my problem. Thank you to everyone who responded, and I hope this might help someone else that cannot trust their trustworthy Buick.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIRTYGERTIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FORTY6AND2
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
Initially, the ignition wouldn't engage the starter, so our mechanic put a push button ignition on it and that seems to have solved the problem. Now the car will turn over, but not start. It seems to be getting good fuel and good spark. If I spray starter fluid into the air intake, I can get the car to run, but it stops as soon as I stop spraying. I installed a new fuel pump and strainer yesterday, but that doesn't seem to have solved the problem. Any ideas what to do next?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Hi:
Check the fuel pressure regulator. Also, have you checked fuel pump pressure to the injectors? Finally, can you hear the injectors working (like a tapping noise)?

Let me know.

Joe
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAMEDLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
Electrical problem
1993 Buick Lesabre Two Wheel Drive Automatic 39000 miles

My car was recently towed and sat in the tow yard for a day or two. When I picked it up it would not start or show any electrical response whatsoever. The tow guy pulled his truck around and after having it hooked up to jump for a few minutes it still wouldn't give me anything- no interior lights or sounds. Nothing. He then grabbed the cables and started jerking them around and sticking them on different parts of the engine. The interior lights would blink on and off as he was shaking everything until finally I hit the ignition right when they flashed on and it started. It got me home running fine on the freeway 20 mins away and now its sitting in my driveway dead again. Note, this car has a newer battery and only 39,000 miles. I've never had a problem with it until now. Was something knocked loose when it was towed? Where should I look first? Any information would be HELPful.

Thanks!
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,755 POSTS
Remove the battery terminals and clean, replace and properly tighten them. Next, follow the ground cable to the engine block. Remove it and clean any corrosion or rust from both the engine block and neg battery terminal. Replace it and properly tighten it.

That should take care of the problem. Let me know if it helps.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULKOOI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
1993 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

My car uses the pass key which has a chip in the key for security.I have cleaned the key but my car will not start. Is there a way to reset the anti theft system?
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KNOWYOURAUTO
  • MECHANIC
  • 113 POSTS
Paulkooi,

Unfortunately there are no shortcuts to your problem. The chip in the key is a resistor that drops a voltage signal down as it passes through and is then verified as correct before allowing your car to start.

A VATS key interrogator is used to determine if your key or ignition switch (w/anti theft), is at fault. Here is a picture of one.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/435113_vatsInterrogator_1.jpg



It is however likely that your vehicle has the same problem 95% of these vehicles exhibit, that is simply the ignition lock cylinder (w/anti theft) has a broken wire from turning so many times. I do not recommend this for the amateur mechanic and a variety tools, puller lock plate depressor, are required for service.

Have a shop skilled at dismantling steering column take a look at it. It may also be a good idea to check for shops that own this old key test tool also.

Good luck,
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DIRTYGERTIE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1993 BUICK LESABRE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,500 MILES
I have everything in the world checked on this car, it must have a ghost haunting it. I need to know how and where the throttle position sensor is? Where it is located and how to replace it? 1993 Buick Lesabre. Replaced the fuel pump, fuel relay, fuel filter, coil packs, ignition module, crank shaft sensor. Some times it starts, sometimes it does'nt. I drove it for about 250 miles, it seemed like it was choking, then on the way to school today I was driving 55 miles an hour, and it died on me. The service engine light has been coming on, so yesterday I took it to O'Riellys and tested the computer. It said the throttle position sensor was low. Where is it located, and how do I replace it.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Hi
TPS is located on throttle body it is a little black box thing with three wire connector. Remove wires and mounting screws and replace with new make sure cam is positioned properly. Looks like the letter D
Hope this helps
Thanks for donation
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Thursday, August 6th, 2020 AT 10:19 AM (Merged)

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