My windows stopped working?

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi Charlie,

Glad that you are able to diagnose the fault.

The control unit do give way at times but it usually is due to bad contacts. If you are adventurous, try removing the unit and checking through the printed circuit board. Look out for cracked solders and resolr them if any found, you might save yourself $ 280 ;)

Good luck.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,289 POSTS
Hello,

Yes the main window switch fixed the problem for this car.

Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help and tell a friend.

Cheers, Ken
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SIERRAGAL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 80,000 MILES
O.K. This is a stumper. I close the windows and lock the car and go inside. When I come out all four windows are down about 4 inches each--enough for a hand to get in and open the door. This has happened about four times. Once on a cool evening, twice on a hot day, and once on a moderate day.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi SierraGal,

If your car is still under warranty, get it checked at the dealership.

The car should be equipped with MPCS and it has 3 control units, namely the Driver door control unit, Driver side under dash intergrated control and Passenger side under dash intergrated control unit.

I believe the passenger side control unit is faulty or needs resetting. The key lock/unlock timer control is found here and it is intermittently malfunctioning.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SIERRAGAL
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thank you. Car is out of warranty but I will check with dealer next time I take it in.

I don't understand this "points" business when I click feedback it asks how many points to give you but no scale. Wassup?
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi SierraGal,

I am rather new here and I do not know how it works too. There is no scale, just that you can give maximum of what you have with minimum of 1, hope I am not wrong. Anyway nevermind about that, just glad to know I have been of assistance.

Too bad your car is out of warranty. If you are into DIY, there is an MPCS check connector behind the driver's fuse box which you can bridge to find any error codes. I do not know if the data that I have is relevant to your vehicle so no promise that it will work.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVER483
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
I have a 2 Door 2005 Honda Accord and the driver's side window does not work. Before it stopped working all together it would work one time and not the next.
The passenger side works fine
I checked all the fuses under the dash and they are ok.
What else would you recommend that I check.
Are Honda's known for having problems with the Master Control Switch?

Steve
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi Steve,

The master switch seldom fails for Honda.

It could be a faulty window motor or its wiring connections. To verify if it is the motor, remove the door panel and test the motor by applying battery voltage to the motor wire terminals.
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Friday, October 16th, 2020 AT 10:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IAOHSIFKSLDGZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
Finally after months of research I was able to to figure out what really caused the click sound. The click that we hear is basically the switch that is turning on(controlled by microcontroller) but without the power supplied by the power relay the windows don't roll down. It is caused by a broken circuit as seen in the picture.
There are basically 4 ways of fixing it. I will start with the easiest.
Method 1: buy the switch which costs $37 for the LX model from the switchdoctor. Com ( does not work with EX model )
LInk: switchdoctor(dot)net/honda-accord-window-switch/honda-accord-master-power-window-switch-2003-2007/
Cons: some people have issues trying to re-program their key.

Method 2: short the 1st (black) and 3rd (green) wire just like the people in this post did. It is extremely easy. ( Link: youtube(dot)com/watch?V=Q52Hea4-MrU)
Cons: shorting this wire actually completes the power relay circuit by connecting the power relay to the ground(shown in the picture). This however removes the control from the microcontroller( 4th pin) to turn on/off the power relay. The microcontroller is designed to turn on the power relay only when the switches are pressed. But without this control the switch has power all the time which is causing the power drain reported by multiple people on this page. Explained in this video (link: youtube(dot)com/watch?V=6RTKsTAU4bs)

Method 3: soldering the 3rd pin(from the second method) and the 4th pin of the microcontroller. This restores the connection of the power relay to the microcontroller allowing the microcontroller to control the switch. This 3rd pin is the same pin that eventually connects to the black wire( from the 2nd method).
This video explains how to disassemble the entire switch and how to solder the wire. ( Link: youtube(dot)com/watch?V=hotWhazi5PE)
Cons: using this method skips over a resistor( black one). To be honest I don't know what it basically does.

Method 4: try this only if you are really confident and know about circuits

The circuit is broken as seen in the second picture. This can be fixed with the use of a conductive ink pen which is $6 on amazon (link: amazon(dot)com/dp/B00OZATJ3A ).
This however is a little difficult and should be done carefully. The red line that you see in the pictures is the circuit that follows the 3rd pin to the 4th pin of the microcontroller. If you see that the circuit is broken like mine(2nd pic) use this method.
Step1: use the video from the 3rd method to remove the circuit board from the main switch board.
Step 2: figure out if there is a break in the circuit as seen in the pic
step 3: there is a plastic coating on the circuit which needs to be removed to expose the copper wire, this can be done by slowly scratching the outer plastic with the help of a small screwdriver. The copper wire can be seen in the 5th pic.
Step 4: use the conductive ink pen to carefully draw a line connecting them. Complete the broken circuit as seen in the 6th pic and do not connect it to any other circuit.
Step 5: use an insulating tape to cover the line that you drew so that the problem doesn't resurface in the future and to remove the possibility that the line that you drew connecting to any other circuits in the future.
Cons: you will need a steady hand to draw a line to re-connect the circuit. If the line gets messed up use a slightly wet paper towel to rub it off and then follow up with a dry paper to remove all the moisture. Also there is a possibility that in the future the line that you drew could disconnect.
DISCLAIMER: I'm not a professional and the methods that have been described are my personal experience. Please use at your own risk.
And finally the reason why we all had to go through this trouble.
I think the 3 bumps (6th pic) that you see on the plastic shell that covers the circuit board rubbed against the board and overtime eventually rubbed off the entire circuit including the plastic coating and the copper.
Some more info: the clicks that you here when you try to use the passenger or the rear window are the switches that are connected to the microcontroller. In this case these switches are working perfectly fine. The problem arises because the microcontroller is not giving the signal to turn on the power relay which powers the windows. Thereby the window motors do not have power even when the switches are working.
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Tuesday, April 6th, 2021 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 48,289 POSTS
Excellent addition to this thread! Please feel free to use 2CarPros anytime!
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Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 6:14 PM

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