Starts but won't stay running?

Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
That is great news. I am greatful that it turend out well for you.
If you ever need anything else we will be here.

Dr. C
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYAUTO
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Okay, so we've checked the fuel pressure and it's at 50PSI, but when the engine is starting to cut out, the pressure fluctuates down and up like something is trying to shut it off. Help?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYAUTO
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
Okay, so I was reading through the TSB's, and something came up with regards to the fuel cut-off on downhill? Do you have any idea what that is in regards to? I mean, I've looked online for information regarding the fuel cut-off solenoid, and can't find any iformation. Help?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JILL ROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
  • 1996 TOYOTA RAV4
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 215,700 MILES
A month ago I brought this vehicle to the dealer because it started (out of the blue) hesitating and choking while going into first and second gears. Sometimes there would be no power at all until I pressed the fuel a couple of times. I have to rev it high like a race car at stop lights and in traffic just to keep from stalling and struggling to regain any power/speed. At the time, the check engine light was on, as well, but that is fixed. Toyota replaced the oxygen sensor. That did not fix the hesitating and choking problem at all. Two days later, they cleaned part of the throttle body. That did not fix the problem either. Then I took it to an independent repairman with twelve previous years of experience working for Toyota service department. He fixed the EMC wire short- replaced the EMC, replaced the VSV valve and modulator, completely cleaned the throttle body. These did not fix the problem. I brought it back to him and this time he replaced the in-tank filter and the fuel filter. While all these things did improve how the car runs, nothing fixed the hesitating and choking at all. The mechanic said the only other thing he can think that would help is replacing the catalytic converter and/or the engine. I feel like there must be something else that might fix the problem. What can you tell me? Thanks!
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYAUTO
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
It's kind of like the engine brake is shutting off the fuel pump, you know, like when you're going downhill? What would cause it to do that?

Oh, and how many times do I have to donate to keep getting replies?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
A plugged catalytic converter is easy to check, your mechanic should have checked this. Also, check that the throttle position sensor is working as it should. A good scanner with live data feed can check all the sensors and actuators are working and pick up a problem quickly in the right hands. You really need to start at the beginning and work through all the systems. Also, fuel pressure and leaking injectors should not be over looked, start here.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Try cleaning both ends of the battery cables, if it has poor connections, there may be voltage drop to the ECM, also unplug the MAF and see if it runs in limp mode, if yes replace MAF.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JILL ROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
How easy is it to unplug the catalytic converter?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Rav4_1.jpg



https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Rav4a_1.jpg

DTC P0115: ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE (ECT) SENSOR CIRCUIT Circuit Description The ECT sensor is a thermistor sensor that monitors engine coolant temperature. DTC is set when ECM detects an open or short in ECT sensor circuit. Possible causes are: à   Open or short in ECT sensor circuit. à   ECT sensor. à   ECM. Diagnosis & Repair 1. Connect scan tool to DLC No. 3 connector. See Fig. 1 . Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, monitor ECT sensor temperature. If temperature displayed is same as actual coolant temperature, check component and ECM connections. Problem is intermittent. 2. If temperature displayed is 284 °F (140 °C) or more, go to step 5). If temperature displayed is -40 °F (-40 °C), turn ignition off. Disconnect ECT sensor connector. ECT sensor is located on coolant housing at flywheel end of cylinder head. Connect a jumper wire between ECT sensor wiring harness connector terminals. Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, monitor ECT sensor temperature. 3. If temperature displayed is 284 °F (140 °C) or more, replace ECT sensor. If temperature displayed is less than 284 °F (140 °C), turn ignition off. Remove jumper wire. Access ECM behind bottom center of instrument panel, in front of console. Connect a jumper wire between terminals No. 4 (White wire) and No. 9 (Brown wire) at ECM E5 connector. See Fig. 2 . 4. If temperature displayed on scan tool is 284 °F (140 °C) or more, locate and repair open circuit in wiring harness between ECT sensor and ECM. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If temperature displayed on scan tool is less than 284 °F (140 °C), replace ECM. 5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECT sensor connector. Turn ignition on. If temperature displayed on scan tool is -40 °F (-40 °C), replace ECT sensor. If temperature displayed is not -40 °F (-40 °C), turn ignition off. 6. Access ECM behind bottom center of instrument panel, in front of console. Disconnect ECM E5 connector. See Fig. 2 . Turn ignition on. If temperature displayed is -40 °F (-40 °C), locate and repair short circuit in wiring harness between ECT sensor and ECM. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If temperature displayed by scan tool is not -40 °F (-40 °C), replace ECM. CAUTION: If ECM replacement is instructed in following testing, always ensure ECM connectors and ground circuit are okay. If either are suspect, repair and repeat testing to confirm ECM malfunction. NOTE: If DTCs P0105, P0106, P0110, P0115 and P0120 are output together, sensor ground circuit may be open. Repair as necessary. See appropriate wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Page 1 of 1 TESTS W/CODES -1998 Toyota RAV4 9/2/2008
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
You cannot, what happens is the catalyst matrix which is like a large honeycomb breaks and collapses and blocked the exhaust flow. See picture for a view of a section of catalyst matrix.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYAUTO
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
OOOokay, so we took a little break. Came back to this sucker and replaced the ECM because it was complaining about the downhill acceleration cut off or something like that. Guess what. That didn't fix it. So, recap:

We have replaced:
MAP sensor
TPC sensor
Crank Sensor
ECM

We have cleaned the battery terminals
We have tested fuel pressure
We have changed fuel filter (broke while testing pressure so we had to anyway)

Where next guys? Cam sensor ya think?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JILL ROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
Wow, okay so can you replace the catalytic converter? If not is it death to the car?
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
You said the rav4 runs ok with the mass air flow sensor unplugged, so check the air duct for any splits or cracks, if none found replace the MAF. Also test the ect, and IAT sensors, here's the range chart.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_ECT_7.jpg


The best time to test both is befroe the first start of the day, they should be within 5 degrees of each other on your scan tool, also do the resistance check.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Yes, they are easy to replace most are just bolt on some are welded, but an exhaust shop can replace a faulty catalytic converter quote easily.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNPJ1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1995 TOYOTA RAV4
  • 60,000 MILES
I just replaced the plugs cap rotor and cables. It will cut out when I am in neutral and rev the engine to 2600-2800rpm also
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANTHONYAUTO
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
No, I said it runs with the MAP sensor unplugged. The Rav4 doesn't have a mass air flow.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Have the fuel pressure check, mass airflow and throttle position sensors checked/tested
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JILL ROSE
  • MEMBER
  • 9 POSTS
My mechanic seemed to say that it is hard to replace the catalytic converter in a 1996 RAV4 manual 4x4.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • MECHANIC
  • 17,250 POSTS
Use a hand held vacuum pump/gauge and apply some vacuum, do this first with the car off, the MAP should hold vac, if not replace it, then test voltage at the sensor with and without vac, does the voltage change? If no on either part, replace it.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNPJ1
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks that's my next step. The local dealership didn't have any parts the last time I put it through there. The problem presents with immediate cut out and before I can get my foot on the clutch the engine is restarted the same as pop starting it. In low gear it's like whiplash.
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Monday, August 3rd, 2020 AT 11:46 AM (Merged)

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