Engine will not start?

Sounds like nothing was actually diagnosed. The parts you listed are all over the place and will cause all different symptoms. What exactly is the symptom? "Doesn't start" can mean a number of different things. Do you have spark? How about fuel pressure? Checked the timing belt? What about diagnostic fault codes. Does the starter crank the engine?

Please list the right engine size. There is no 4.0L.

That code would not make the engine not run. Please follow this guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

And let us know what you find.

Load test the battery-start here-10.8volts is not enough to tickle the starter-could also be the ignition switch

P1495 - Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit

Sorry for the delay. Been fighting computer issues.

You have to check for spark, fuel pressure, valve timing, (timing belt), and compression. If the timing belt jumps one tooth, the Check Engine light will turn on and there will be a diagnostic fault code for "Cam and crank sync". If it jumps two teeth, the Engine Computer will shut the engine down to protect it by stopping spark and injector pulses. If it jumps three teeth, open valves will be hit by the pistons and be bent. That would result in loss of compression.

The problem now is any diagnostic fault codes were erased when the battery was disconnected. That valuable information was lost, and in some cases the "cam and crank sync" code only sets while the engine is coasting to a stop. It may not set just from cranking the engine.

At the mileage you listed the timing belt should have been replaced at least once already, and perhaps twice. If it has never been replaced, do not keep trying to get the engine to run before you check the valve timing. Replacing the belt before it jumps that third tooth is better than having to do a valve job in addition to the belt.

With everything off, I'd use a digital multimeter across battery posts, what is the reading? 10.8 volts is too low, if I understand your post? You need to also check your charging system. Use a dmm to take voltage reading, let us know. All battery cables coming and going are clean and tight on all ends? Could be excessive battery drain? You need a fully charged battery to do testing.

The autostores I deal with will come to your home, in town, give you a jump, if needed.

A battery that is too far down, you shouldn't charge with your alternator. Can cause alternator to get get hot?

When you say "nothing happened", or "and nothing", that does not say anything. It implies everything is dead as if the battery was disconnected.

I have two suggestions. We never just start throwing parts at a problem because that adds more variables to the problem, and it's the most expensive and least effective way to diagnose a problem. It is different if you already have those parts in your tool box, but not if you have to go and buy them.

The first thing to do is check the voltages at the camshaft position sensor, but you have to do that with it still connected to be valid. You can back-probe through the rubber weather-pack seals with your meter probe or with a stretched-out paper clip for a probe. With the ignition switch on, you must find 5.0 volts on one terminal, and 0.2 volts on the ground terminal. If you have those, since you're fortunate to have a scanner, look under the "live data" menu to view the sensor signals. The Chrysler DRB3 scanner will list the cam sensor as "present" or "no" during cranking to tell whether that signal is showing up at the Engine Computer. Your scanner should have something similar. They typically do not show a signal voltage because it's a square wave digital signal that cannot be measured with a digital voltmeter.

The second thing to consider is related to only half of the injectors firing. Usually only half of the spark plugs are firing too. The cause is late camshaft timing, but you are getting the wrong fault code for that. This problem sets the code for "cam and crank sync". At one tooth off, the Check Engine light should be on with that fault code in memory. At two teeth off, the computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves. At three teeth off the open valves will be hit by the pistons. Normally a jumped timing belt causes poor engine performance, but these will be shut down by the computer.

If the timing belt appears to be in time, there is another problem that can cause late camshaft timing and a shut-down engine, but it only applies to the single overhead cam engine. You will have to tell me if you have the single or dual cam engine.

Dandy. I should warn you that I have to drive into town to use wireless internet, and often I only do that every other day. Also, next week is the Iola Old Car show. Second largest in the nation. I'll be there fixing and selling car radios from Wednesday through Saturday, so you might not hear from me then.

I had an idea, does the engine sounds okay when it is turning over? To could be a timing belt has let go. Can you pull the cover back and have someone crank it over to see if the belt is turning?

Best, Ken

Hi guys. The 8.95 volts should be 8.0 volts on the orange wire. That is the feed circuit common to the camshaft position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. The black / light blue is the ground circuit common to many of the sensors. That's the one with 0.1 volt. The third one is the signal wire. I don't know if the engine has to be rotating for it to generate a signal. If it doesn't, you should see that voltage change when you turn the engine slowly by hand. Digital signals usually switch between 0.0 and 5.0 volts. With two-wire sensors, something has to be moving to induce a voltage signal. Some three-wire sensors switch in the presence of a piece of metal near their built-in magnet. Some only generate the voltage when the magnetic field is disturbed, meaning moving.