Timing/Tuning problem with a CJ7

Here's what I have finally gotton motived and written!

All Righty Then,

I’m gonna sorta explain how some of this works, it will give you a BASE, to kinda build on.

Unfortunately MOST people start at the Top and try to work in, instead of understanding how the machine works 1st, before they “GO IN”!

Some of this I will leave for you to figure out on your own, before I just “Hand It To You”!---For now how the cam works for 1 cylinder (it’s the same for the other 7 CYLINDERS, except staggered out over 360 degrees of travel, of the crank)

The cam gear is traveling at � the rate of the crank, WHY, That gives the Piston, 2 Ups and 2 Downs, for every CAM 360 Degree rotation (NOT CRANK, THE CAM)THE CAM OPENS THE VALVES AND CLOSES THEM, Each valve is opened or closed, at a correct time, while the ENGINE ROTATES 2 FULL TURNS to complete one cycle (remember the other 7, follow along doing the EXACT SAME THING at staggered intervals, ! (We just only reference the 1st one as a Calibration point) THAT’S WHY IT’S A 4 STROKE! THINK ABOUT IT!---IF YOU CANNOT GET THIS IN YOUR HEAD, DO NOT MOVE ON..... THIS IS THE MEAT ANND POTATOES OF ENGINE OPERATION!

The Deal With Vaccum

All engines produce vacuum, PERFECT VAC is 30 Hg (Un-achievable man)----A WONDERFUL ENGINE, will range between 20-22 Hg (“Inches Of Mercury”, is the way you say “Hg” for everyone to understand!)..... Since its already present, Auto Engineers use it to run engine components, and other stuff too! Things like, Distributor Vacuum Advance, Warm up Doors, switches, and emission controls and other engine things, POWER BRAKE BOOSTER (if you have one), On a lot of new things, the HEATER Doors and Controls. Thank goodness a CJs Heater is all MANUAL with CABLE CONTROLS, Look in the FORUMS for the Cherokee and other “Comfort Vehicles” a lot of � em are having problems with the “AUTOMATED HEATER CRAP”. Not a “Comfort Rig” with no heat in the Dead of Winter!

4 CYCLEThis is how this works!

I will start with the POWER STROKE, The EXPLOSION just occurred the PISTON is heading down (intake and exhaust valves are closed (because of cam), THIS IS THE WHOLE REASON FOR THE ENGINE. This is the POWER or DRIVING FORCE!

In order for the system to repeat, the Power Stroke, it must do some other stuff next!

Now we got EXPLOSION WASTE to get rid of, Thus on the way back up, ONLY THE EXHAST VALVE OPENS (cam action), and the Piston pushes out the “Exhaust” into the exhaust manifold, and on out the tailpipe. THIS IS THE EXAUST STROKE!

No it’s headed down again!---The Exhaust Valve Closes, and the INTAKE VALVE OPENS (cam action), it begins SUCKING IN A PERFECTLY MIXED AIR/ FUEL MIXTURE (From Perfect Carburetor Action, WE WANT IT THAT WAY ANYWAY!)....... THIS IS WHERE THE ENGINE VACUUM COMES FROM! Cylinders doing this in rapid succession!

Next the cylinder is full, it hits bottom, The INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES CLOSE (cam) and the Piston starts back up..... It’s Compressing the Air/ Fuel Mix, in an “Air Tight Cylinder” (to make a good, powerful Explosion!) THIS IS THE COMPRESSION STROKE!

Now this is the part that is tricky!

Hear me thru!

When the piston reaches the EXACT TOP (TDC), and STARTS DOWN (After Top Dead Center, ATDC)� THE SPARK PLUG IGNITES THE MIXTURE and POWER STROKE BEGINS AGAIN!

BUT WHY?---WE GOT IT FIRING AT 8 BTDC!HOW CAN THAT BE.

Well if the ACTUAL EXPLOSION took place before TDC, the engine would want to ATTEMPT TO RUN BACKWARDS! (This situation is also called “Detonation” or “PINGING” (which sounds like a ball peen hammer on an anvil) It’s actually the explosion hammering on the Piston, Rod, and crank, as its really wanting to go backwards... This occurs when you are timed TOO MUCH BTDC. The explosion process is a little more complicated than this, but this is the MAJOR STUFF!

Timing explanation is next!

With ADVANCE IN THE TIMING, as car people know it, we are telling the spark when to occurWE ARE NOT MAKING IT OCCUR. OCCURENCE NEEDS TO HAPPEN AT THE SAME POINT (or close to it) every time the PISTON IS HEADING DOWN!

Using “STUPID TERMS”....... Lets say your engine is sitting still, at “0” RPM, at “2 DEGRESS ATDC” I WILL CALL THIS, “0 MPH, Miles Per Hour”, IN STUPID TERMS (Locked and loaded with a compressed fuel mix)If you shoot a spark, the mix will explode and the piston will travel down....... RIGHT? Electricity travels about 200 MPH (basically) THIS WORKS!

What about now, Your engine is doing 700 RPM, (STUPID TERMS) 700 MPH....... The spark must get to “2 DEGREES ATDC at the same time it did at “0 MPH”HOW, YOU SAY......... TELL IT TO SHOOT SOONER, WE CANNOT SPEED UP ELECTRICITY, SO WE JUST “LEAD IT SOONER”, or “SHOOT IT SOONER”, Or in car terms “ADVANCE IT”

As it gets faster and faster, that’s where the internal distributor CENTRIFAGAL ADVANCE slowly adds advance, as engine speed increases (sorta a self adjusting advance!)

Then we have vacuum advance, sorta a New thing back in maybe the 40’s, it not only helps with fuel economy, it kinda helps the Centrifugal Advance, it too sorta self adjusts....... When everything is wonderful and you are traveling down the road, EZ and “NO LOAD”, Vacuum is high (let’s say 20 Hg) You are Mega Advanced, and all is great. Then you start pulling a steep hill, RPMs are the same (Centrifugal Advance is the same, Remember, it works off of engine speed)......... But Vacuum is dropping, the Vacuum Advance starts Dropping off, (Towards TDC, or back into the Power End of your Explosions, You are still in BTDC, Just Not as far back!

DOES THIS ALL SORTA MAKE SENSE NOW?

THE MEDIC......... With sore fingers!

This is Dual overhead cam (its got 2 cams, that act as our 1 does)

The operation of strokes is the same, This is also a 4 cylinder

Once you get the hang of this one SEARCH FOR OTHERS-4-6-8 Cylinders

You will see how complicated thing have become!

If you want to find one like ours, look for: A CARBURETOR, A SINGLE CAM, BEING A 8 CYLINDER FOR YOU!

A lot of these show Fuel Injection, Many are long and informative, and swing around to show you views!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_y6PS-2j2Ug&feature=related

IN YOUR SEARCH IN YOU TUBE USE "ANIMATED ENGINE" ANIMATED 6 CYLINDER, ANIMATED 4 CYCLE ETC........WARNING, this can become addictive!

I want you to test Vacuum at idle, engine at operating temp.....See my diagrams above.

Then I want to make sure Vacuum lines look wonderful, ALL UN-USED T.I.T.S ARE CAPPED OR PLUGGED WITH A SHORT HOSE AND A BOLT

And TIMING is confidently right! (CHECK WITH A LIVE LINE (20 Hg?), THEN HOOK YOUR OLD ONE BACK ON.......EVEN A NEW DISTRIBUTOR MIGHT NOT WORK RIGHT, WE JUST WANT TO VERIFY IF DOES GO FULL TRAVEL, WITH THE "LIVE LINE", REGARDLESS WHAT THE "PORTED ORIGINAL" DOES

WE STILL HAVE NOT VERIFIED, VACUUM LINE LOCATIONS, ARE YOU ABLE TO COMPARE YOUR LOCATIONS WITH ONE OF YOUR VACUUM DIAGRAMS IN YOUR MANUALS, TO "MAYBE" VERIFY THEY ARE CORRECTLY HOOKED UP?......REMEMBER TO USE THE DIAGRAM FOR YOUR YEAR AND ANY OTHER SPECIFICS ABOUT YOUR JEEP, SUCH AS: 49 STATE, 304, YEAR, WITH OR WITHOUT CERTAIN ACCESSORIES.

We will move on to carb tuning

I want good close carb pics, well lit, even using a Shop light if you must! A MIRROR, IF NEED-BE!

You can always come back an Tweak stuff to make it better, that we have already covered

YOU MUST GET USED TO THIS STUFF.

EVERYTHING IS DONE AT OPERATING TEMP!

YOUR CARB LOOKS REALLY CLEAN, IS IT NEW OR REBUILT RECENTLY?

The hole you "STEP INTO" may be Warm up stuff not operating right, could be ACCELERATOR PUMP on the carb, out of adjustment, Heck, the choke may be partially closed---at operating temp (ain't dealt with that yet!)......IT MAY BE TIME FOR A REBUILD (even though I can, please do not make me do that, thats ONE on ONE--in the same shop, ME FUSSING AT YOU CONSTANTLY!)

Its usually EZer to buy a rebuilt one, (Even a Holley or other, NEW IN THE BOX)

I like Holley, its EZ to Jet, Usually is OK, to use straight out of the box (It needs to be road tested to see if it's Mixing Correctly, THIS IS ANOTHER TEST WE WILL DISCUSS LATER!). Parts are local or overnight, with a Holley, and Local fellers are usually familiar, and can assist you in getting stuff corrected!........Even Dragstrip people can aid in getting it Street Worthy for your needs! (they take pride in their JETTING KNOWLEDGE, and will aid you in a second)

IT'S JUST LIKE EVERYTHING ELSE, YOU MUST FIND THE RIGHT GUY THAT KNOWS IT INSIDE OUT, AND WILL HELP ----YOU----DO IT, NOT DO IT FOR YOU!

Generally a NEW FACTORY CARB, Is built better, and with new parts, than the one "Jim Bob" slung together, Friday after lunch, at the rebuild facility, using Clean OLD Parts!

OK, GET MY PICS UPDATE ME ON OPERATION NOW, AT OPERATING TEMP (DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WHILE COLD YET, WE WILL ADDRESS THAT SOON), ADD ANYTHING ELSE IN ABOUT WHAT I HAVE MENTIONED THAT YOU KNOW ABOUT (THIS MAY HELP WITH THE CARB ADJUSTMENTS). REMEMBER, AT OPERATING TEMP!

YOU CAN SEE WHY I WANT "YOUR PICS", I CAN MODIFY THEM AND SHOW YOU STUFF.

YOUR TURN,

THE MEDIC

Just got back from a 140 mile round trip with Willy, Went to a 4X4 Sorta Does it all place, way back in the "Sticks", in Pickens, S.C.

It is still snowy, icy and muddy up there, at the base of the mountains!

They were really nice to me and the owner gave me a Super Spectacular deal on a looks to maybe be a Entire Serviceable Used Transfer Case, minus shift linkage.I may be walkin' in High Cotton really soon. Either he's that nice of a feller, Felt sorry for me, or just wanted rid of me! (Maybe Willy, impressed him!)

I went by the "Home-place" and retrieved my top out of the woods (been there 15 or more years, cause I just don't drive Willy in the Winter!)

It needs painting (not now!), I reworked the sides to fit over my summer top hardware, and I weather stripped the doors. It's a sight! (1953 Sears "Allstate" Aluminum top, made by Grumman Aircraft!) It was New in the box, when the feller sold it to me, in 1992.$50!

We will "TUNE" your carb as soon as I write it up in "WORD", then copy and paste it in here. REALLY SOON. Gotta work on Mr. Jeep for a bit, before I play! (A couple or 3 days). Please understand!

The "Happy Now" Medic

Here's My "Vintage 140 mile, at 45 MPH, Trip"!

1) Modifying and installing, last resort, with 2 of 4 vehicles down. Warmth!

2) The original 20 year old, homemade "SAHARA BREEZE" (wood edition!)

3) I have one of these, made out of sheet metal in "Mr. Jeep" as backup heat.

4) Ain't that. Sorta Pretty. Its, "Take your coat off" Hot in there now!

5) Hatchback

6) "Butterfly Doors" (See, it ain't a new thing, only for "High End" sports cars!With "Ratchet Up Windows"! (Blow this up, and check 'em out)

7) This is what it looks like to Drive a "REAL JEEP"!

8) This is what it looks like if you are "With"."Me and Willy"!

9) Tis is what you do when the plastic holding the mirror, Rots out. GPS "Rubber Banded" above it!

10) This is leaving my NEWLY FOUND, HARD TO FIND, JEEP PARTS SANCTUARY. He does it all, and he has a lot of older parts, IT'S EVERYWHERE, IT'S EVERYWHERE. Gotta find you, one of these, in your area!

I want a few shots in between the CHOKE SPRING HOUSING, and the CARB BODYClose and in FOCUS (above, front, and rear, if possible)

YOU DONE GOOD, GETTING THE TOOLS, YOU ARE THE 1ST, I HAVE HELPED, THAT HAS BEEN THIS ENTHUSIASTIC!

DRIVE-ON, NEW JEEP BUDDY!

WON'T YOU TAKE A 3 DAY PASS, NOW. YOU DESERVE IT. THIS ONE'S ON ME, ARE YOU HAVIN' FUN. THIS, LIKE A NEW HOBBY FOR YOU NOW?

THE MEDIC

Not ready yet with the carb stuff, I've got a buddy coming over to help me go over, my newly acquired transfer case and check end-play and such on the output shafts, before I put it in.

Before I throw my suggestion on you I want you to Get your Jeep to operating temperature, then take your vacuum line off of the DISTRIBUTOR, then CONNECT your new toy, Mr. Vacuum Gauge to the line. I want to know if vacuum is present and how much? (No need for a tee, just the gauge on the line)

I thought maybe you might want to try something.I have my "6 cylinder" set up this way, and it runs really well!

In the pics before, I showed you how to test MANIFOLD VACUUM, using a "TEE" and some vacuum hose. Letting everything remain being hooked up, but the GAUGE was connected to the "New Line" that you gained with the tee.

This time do the same hook up, except this time do this:

1) remove and cap off the distributor vacuum line with a bolt

2) It might take a longer hose from the "tee", but instead of installing the gauge on the line, hook that line to the Distributor.

3) Now your distributor will be getting full Manifold Vacuum constantly (at idle, anyway). This will Vac Advance the distributor fully at idle and at normal High Vacuum Times while running.

4) When you do this, Idle speed will increase (mine smooths out greatly!), Tune it back down to 700 RPM, using your Tach.A previous pic, showed you the "IDLE SPEED SCREW" (idle screw) in which you will back your speed down with.

5) I know we haven't done the Carb yet, but run this a while, like this, just to see if you get Running/ Driving improvement. DO NOT JUMP OUT IN TRAFFIC, UNTIL YOU KNOW IT WORKS and PROVES ITSELF.I'D HATE TO HEAR THAT YOU GOT HIT BY A TRUCK, WHEN YOUR JEEP HIC-CUPPED 5-6 TIMES AND STAMMERED, 'CAUSE YOU DID NOT HEED MY WARNING!

6) IF IT'S NOT WORKING WELL---PUT IT BACK TO THE WAY IT WAS!

7) If this, in some kinda way will not get you thru an emissions test, put it back (at least till it does) SO WHAT I'M SAYING IS---REMEMBER WHAT YOU DID, AND UP YOUR IDLE SPEED BACK TO 700 RPM, IF YOU DO PUT IT BACK. Do not forget to plug the "OLD" distributor line.

Let me know how it does.

I believe things may change a little when we Tweak your Carb (for the better)

We will get to that soon!

Here's my newly acquired case in the "Rough" The Yoke was a little loose. Thats it on the left, I figured I'd clean and paint it, before we got oil on it, when we are messing with it! I still have to steal the linkage, plugs, and vent off of the cracked one. I repainted my "Hardtop", with 5 cans of spray paint. I'll get you a pic of that soon.

I KNOW, I KNOW. We'll get to your carb. Yours runs, Mine Don't (yet!)

The Medic

I'm tired of going thru the motions to review your 1st Question, so I am linking it in here, so I can just click on it, to see it!

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/1980-jeep-cj7-v8-wont-start

The Medic

ALL RIGHTY THEN!

CARB ADJUSTING IS REALLY CLOSE TO READY!

WHEN I SEND IT, IT'S GONNA BE LONG! (TOO LONG!), I WILL SEND IT, "A LITTLE, SOME PICS, A LITTLE, SOME PICS" SO DON'T "BUTT IN", TILL I HAVE ALL OF IT TO YOU.I WILL SAY, "I AM FINISHED AT THE END"

NOW LET'S SEE IF YOU PACIFIC COAST FELLERS CAN PERFORM A TASK, WITH NOTHING BUT PICS? HERE THEY ARE!

THE MEDIC

PEAKING OUT YOUR BBD CARBURETOR (and others)

As you know, I am a Knit-Picky, Drill Sergeant Type; Wife says I’m “A.N.A.L” (wonder why, she has to be so mean?)..... At the end of this “NOVEL” I will kinda, Sum it all up, and it will then, sound EZ to do!

I want to verify our “Accelerator Pump” is still providing, A good squirt into both barrels!
ENGINE IS OFF! Look into Carb.

With a flashlight (NOT a “BIC” lighter!), Slowly pull your throttle back, you should see 2 “PERTTY” squirt gun streams of fuel, shoot, one into each barrel---Equal size, to each other!

This fuel AIDS in your engine, getting a burst of energy, to “GO”, Every time you push the gas pedal, WITHOUT THIS, YOUR JEEP WILL HESITATE and maybe die, EVERY TIME YOU ACCELLERATE! (This could maybe be one reason, for a hesitation)If we do not get 2 even squirts, Carb may/should be repaired (rebuild) or replaced....... This may be the “HOLE”, that you say you are falling into, Lets get the Mix right, then we will play with the Accelerator Pump!

Ready to tune Mr. Carburetor?
Remove your air cleaner assembly....... Cap/ Plug off any vacuum lines/ T.I. Ts you disconnected (on the engine end) when you remove it!
THIS 1ST PART IS IMPORTANT!
1st thing we are going to do is figure out where we are set now, just in case we have to come back to this point.

Go to the front of your Carb, there are 2 “Mixture” screws (some carbs the adjustment may be somewhere else), they may be exposed, or they might be inside a little Tunnel.

When we move these screws, we are going to do it slow.

WHEN! We bottom out, we are going to GENTLY TOUCH BOTTOM (NO MORE THAN THAT, NO FORCING, Just an EZ touch)

If someone in the past has “Went Too Tight” our orifices may be “WALLERED OUT” (one orifice may be larger than the other, air flow will be exponentially more than the other) and precise adjustment may not be achieved.

This is why we need to know our exact position NOW! Just so it will run (if we have to put it back)

IF adjusting correctly, ---“Just Ain’t Happening”---(even if we cannot do this right, due to the previous DUMMY FACTOR Destroyed or over-tightened the screws). Still, Experimenting with your “Disaster Carb”, still may improve it a little!)

The next thing we need is a screwdriver; it must be LONG/SHORT ENOUGH to get to these screws, in your little “Obstacle Course” in front of the screws (stay away from the FAN!) It must fit the SCREW SLOTS WELL! (Slipping out, without knowing, means you lost your count!)

You may want to mark the Screwdriver handle with Tape ETC. So that you have 4 DIFFERENTLY MARKED increments (1/4 TURN MARKs for Reference! I PREFER 2, 180 degree marks line up with the screwdriver blade) we will be counting Turns, as you get better with this, you will graduate to 1/8 increments! You will be able to watch the flats of the screwdriver and have no need for marks!

I have whipped up a “Beginner Type” adjustment/counting screwdriver---with a piece of tape and a marker. MINE has 1/8 marks, But ONLY the “� ” increments are labeled with numbers.

As you rotate MINE, COUNTERCLOCKWISE---it reveals “0”, then “� ”, then “� ”, then “� ”, then back to “0” (THIS WOULD BE THE COUNT AS YOU ARE BACKING OUT ON A SCREW!) ----“GOING IN”, you just gotta keep up with increments!

MY “0” and “� ”, CORROSPOND WITH THE THIN PARTS OF THE SCREWDRIVERS BLADE (NOT THE FLATS, but this really makes no difference)

I MUST REMEMBER, GOING THE OTHER WAY (CW), I MUST TRANSLATE THE INCREMENTS “BACKWARDS”!

YOU CAN MARK IT ANYWAY YOU WANT! ! ! (RED MARKER “IN”---BLACK MARKER “OUT”---(in this optional scenario, My BLACK “1/4”; would also be my RED “� ”, My BLACK “� ” would also be my RED “1/4”.

AS LONG AS YOU AND YOUR ASSISTANT UNDERSTAND....... DO AS YOU WISH!

I stole and revised, most of this from a previous post of mine, I have no clue why Many words are LINKS?

DURING THIS WHOLE PROCESS, YOU MAY WANT TO PERIODICALLY, REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER AND VERIFY THE POSITIONS OF THE ACTUAL SCREW SLOTS IN THE CARBURETOR. And you have not slipped off, and turning nothing!

I AM SHOWING A 2 BARREL 6 CYLINDER “CARTER BBD CARBERATOR” IN MY PICS

We are going to call the screw ON THE DRIVERS SIDENUMBER 1 SCREW (1st PIC).

The other will be NUMBER 2 SCREW (2nd PIC).

NUMBER 1 is the most important, because #2 is just going to be “ALONG FOR THE RIDE”, during every adjustment. (Whatever you do to #1, ..... You will do to #2 Also!)

If there are plastic limiter caps over the mixture screws, find a home for both, in the woods behind your house!

To see where we are now, Install screwdriver in #1 watching your reference marks, turn it CLOCKWISE IN, till it touches bottom, EVER SO GENTLY. YOU WILL BE COUNTING, I LIKE COUNTING � TURNS..... EXAMPLE, I MAY HAVE “6”� 1/2 TURNS AND “1”--1/4 TURN ( IN REALITY THIS IS 3-1/4 FULL TURNS)

Insure Your “Too Wide” Screwdriver, scraping the sides, is not FOOLING YOU! [Get one that fits easily into the “Tunnel”], you will be counting the turns, ACCURATLY down to the 1/8th (yours will vary DRASTICALLY, from mine!) Throwing “STUPID” Numbers, mine is: 4-1/8 “Full Turns” or 8-1/8 “1/2” Turns----RECORD THIS NOW, before you forget. Then Do #2.......4-1/4 Turns (or 8-1/4 “1/2” TurnsRECORD IT TOO!

We want the Jeep to somewhat run decently, in order to adjust the mixture screws----so let’s start with #1 at 3-1/2 Turns BACKED OUT#2 is along for the ride, Bring him out 3-1/2 turns too! (He will follow from here on out)

CRANK UP VERIFY IT WILL RUN

WE WANT THE JEEP TO IDLE... IT MAY BE POORLY..... We just want to maintain an idle, this SHOULD improve as we adjust! You may sorta back out to whatever your #1 “Originally” was close to [going in], such as maybe it was 3-1/4 turns going in, Just to start out EVENLY, Bring both screws “OUT” to 3-1/4 ( Always remember to put #2 at same setting as #1)

TURN OFF YOUR JEEP NOW, SO WE CAN CONTINUE, if we are good!

LET ME KNOW IF THINGS ARE ---NOT--- GOING WELL AT THIS POINT!

We have 2 ways to set the Carb, Vacuum Gauge or Dwell/Tach meter (Either way will work). For now we will use the DWELL/TACH METER. I like this method for several reasons: You can see “MICRO” movements of the needle, you can adjust Idle, up or down to RE-ZERO where you are at, and it’s a tool you already need! (No need for both, vacuum gauge and tach)

Peak Vacuum should = Peak RPM

After you get good with the 6 cylinder scale, you can just watch the tip of the needle (more precise) on the “GENERIC” outer scale (on my meter, it’s the voltmeter scale) to MAXIMIZE Precise, minute adjustments....... The tip of the needle would be observed for improvement, but the “4” or “6” or “8” cylinder scale is used to “REZERO” back to correct Idle speed, or a Good reference mark that is close to idle speed

I have sorta rigged my meter so ONLY the 6 cylinder scale shows ”AND” the top scale (voltmeter) shows. Basically: to find 700 RPM quickly, and maybe “Just a Tweak off of 700 SLIGHTLY” to line up on a really CLOSE-BY voltmeter line [the up-most scale on my meter] (the most sensitive end of the needle)

Pic 1) You can use a vacuum gauge to adjust, Pic 2) You can use a Tach/ Dwell Meter to adjust, Pic 3) You can cover the scales that do not pertain to your engine, and mark reference points (so you do not get confused)

Regardless which you use, insure you have plenty of light on the front of the carb. And your meter is lit well from behind you. I usually SQUINT ONE EYE (like firing a weapon) to LINE UP ON MY “ZERO MARK” to watch needle changes, as they move UP or DOWN....... We are shooting for UP!
Now, as an experiment, we will move our Number one screw “IN” ---1/2 a turn---then we will back it out � a turn (where we started) then we will Back “OUT” � a turn........... Just to keep both screws even, turn it back in � a turn
WHAT WE HAVE JUST DETERMINED IS: WHICH WAY MADE AN IMPROVEMENT? THIS WILL DETERMINE WHICH WAY WE WILL GO, TO KEEP IMPROVING......... Both screws will stay with each other (in turns) as we go in the “Improving Direction”

If you feel more comfortable, stay on the cylinder scale for your # of cylinders, you can just use 700 RPM, and remain lower on the needle, instead of at the tip

I’m a plumber, I wanted to see if this Tach Method was as good as using the vacuum gauge, we had a Job Going at work, that had this real expensive vacuum gauge going in. The gauge was very sensitive, and was about a foot in diameter, lots of increments, compared to my automotive vacuum gauge, which is about 3 inches. Minute changes are FAINT and Hard to detect, on it.

I sorta borrowed it, for a day, before it was installed. We hooked it to my Jeep, along with the Dwell/Tach, I adjusted my Carb, using the Giant Vacuum Gauge. Then we maxed it out with my Dwell/Tach meter. I came up with nearly the same settings. So I’m pretty much sold with the TACH method. Another use the one you want to, its all about improving the needle on either one!

ACTUAL TUNING

Insure no other device is touching, or will EVER, hold our throttle open (remove or adjust it so that it will never affect the throttle). The only 3 exceptions being: The Idle speed Screw, and the one beside it (choke fast idle, on a 6 cylinder), and if you have A/C, any high idle solenoid that jacks up idle, to compensate for A/C compressor load.

Hook up your Dwell/Tach meter.

CRANK and warm engine to operating temperature.

Now check to see if the choke is fully open. CHECK and INSURE, High Idle is not touching (holding the throttle open, NOT EVEN SLIGHTLY!)

You SHOULD be back to NORMAL IDLE!YOUR METER IS SET TO TACHOMETER (RPMs) or Vacuum gauge is properly attached, if you use it instead

Insure the throttle arm is closed (by spring) and you cannot physically make it close any more. The Idle Screw should be contacting the stop... When you are warm, verify we are idling at 700 RPM, Or MAKE IT HAPPEN (environmental changes could slightly affect this from last adjustment, and FOR SURE, our moving the mixture screws to the new starting point!)

Its decision time, we must pick our meter ZERO POINT. (I’m using the 6 cylinder scale for my RPMs, this is a 258, I’m using as an example)

On my meter, at this speed (700 RPM), I am really close to a mark on the upper scale [tip end, sensitive part of the needle), If your meter is like mine, the mark I chose, is at the tip of the needle (4 VOLTS, Since I am referencing off of the Voltmeter scale) this is ever so slightly DOWN, from this original idle mark.( In other words, I’m not quite at 700 RPM, using the 4 Volt mark, slightly off is OK!)

Every time you re-zero your IDLE SPEED, for now, Will be “4” on voltmeter scale (700 on the RPM scale). You already know, it is really slightly under 700 RPMs

We are running, and at temp,

We may be “stumbling” a bit,

on meter is ZERO for Idle speed (or “700”),

The carb will NO longer be referred to as: 3-1/2 turns---out; on both screws... It is now ZERO, on both screws! (Unless we get confused and must start over, then you run � em both in, back out your initial turns, at that point we will call it “ZERO” again!)

OUT IS “RICH”....... IN IS “LEAN”

CALL THIS: “WHICH WAY DO I GO?”We are going to play with NUMBER 1 mixture screw, Insert your screwdriver and

SIMULTANEOUSLY! (TURN, WATCH METER, and WATCH SCREWDRIVER INCREMENTS!)

Give the screw “� ” Turn Clockwise (slowly)

Did we improve on “4”, going in from Zero, (our basically 700 RPM reference, at the tip of the needle)?

NOW, RETURN TO ZERO with #1 (CCW � Turn)

Now turn it CCW � Turn [from zero]

Did “4” improve, in that direction?
Return � turn CW, Just so we are back to our Zero starting point! (Now both screws are at same turns out..... We should know now, which way we will be turning both, to get needle improvement)

You must move slowly, allow engine several seconds (5-10) to fully react, when you adjust!

WHICH WAY MADE AN IMPROVEMENT. IN or OUT?

THIS NEXT, IS AN ASSUMPTION, and BASED ON RON’S JEEP (this is my neighbors Jeep carb, in these pics)----otherwise you should understand the process, going in!

WE (RON and I) HAD IMPROVEMENT BACKING #1 OUT, � Turn from “ZERO” [actually #1 is now 3-3/4 off the bottom, do not worry about that, Zero is what we call that now!], NOW WE HAVE SORTA ESTABLISHEDBACKING OUT---IMPROVES RPM! (Or opposite, maybe for you)

WHAT WE DO TO #1WE DO TO #2! BACK HIM OUT � TURN, TOO! ---RPM will probably improve with #2 (actually we are really at 3-3/4 OUT, both screws, but we keep this out of mind)

OUR METER NEEDLE IS NOW ABOVE THE “4”, We are off of our reference mark! [Climbing] (Improvement, w/BOTH screws!)

RE-ZERO IDLE SPEED [“IDLE SCREW”] Back Idle Back Down to our mark “4” AGAIN (SO WE CAN DETECT IMPROVEMENT EASILY, AGAINST THE “4” Mark or Line!)

We are going to say, EVERTHING IS BACK TO ZERO AGAIN---WE HAVE JUST ESTABLISHED A “NEW” ZERO, WHEN BOTH SCREWS WERE EQUALLY POSITIONED (forget 3-3/4, if you mess-up, you can always, re-bottom the screws, counting the turns as you go, set both screws the same, AND CALL THAT, YOUR NEW ZERO!)

NOTE: Most beginners get messed up trying to keep up with their turns, That’s why I call both screws, being moved equally “Zero”, No counting necessary, just equal turns of both screws

Just remember----whatever you Finally “tweak” #1, reach over and do #2 the same increment.

Call it zero (each turn of #1, will be a fresh start!)

CONTINUEING WITH ADJUSTMENT!

We are going to continue to back out, � at a time as before, REMEMBER TO DO #2 EACH TIME!

We are finally going to HIT and Probably---BACK OUT PAST---Our “SWEET SPOT” (Meaning: PEAKED OUT! NO CHANGE IN, NO CHANGE OUT)

When our “Zero, does not improve or goes downhill (decreases in RPMs) WE WILL STOP MAKING THESE, “COARSE”, CCW, � Turn Adjustments!

We are TOO FAR OUT NOW (not by much, and we are TOO RICH!)

CALL THIS: “RE-TWEAKING”We are going to EASE back in Toward the “SWEET SPOT” (clockwise)[opposite what we were doing]----this time at 1/8 or 1/16 increments, #2 will follow along, each “Finished” process will be called ZERO, as before. RE-ZERO OF THE METER [idle speed, just so you will have a line to reference, and detect the slightest needle movement]

IT IS UP TO YOU, when we are this close to Finish, If you can detect needle movement, don’t worry about resetting the meter to 700

Watching the meter and FINE ADJUSTMENT amounts---IS REALLY CRITICAL AT THIS POINT!

When your RPM, MAXES OUT---you are sitting on the “SWEET SPOT”Stay there! (Both screws)

AT THIS POINT, YOU MAY WANT TO “MAKE SURE”, as long as you keep #1 and #2, EVEN, ----and BACKING-UP or GO FORWARD EVENLY. As long as you approach the “Sweet Spot” from the “RICH” side [screw in to find the SPOT, NOT OUT],

PLAY ALL YOU WANT! (Screws even at all zero points, IN or OUT)Confused? Go back to a known start point!

This will really impress your friends later, when you “Show Out”.

Re-zero Your IDLE to “4” Or 700 RPM (last time) Throttle up a few times, insure, we “Settle back to 700 RPM IDLE setting, when engine stabilizes.
To sorta SUM this whole Novel up: Find and record where you are “SET” now---Then EVENLY move the 2 mixture screws, “OUT”, SLIGHTLY TOO FAR� The Move them “IN” slowly to find the Best� Peaked out position on your Tune up instrument... You can do this over and over, until you are HAPPY, with your final setting. Yes saying it like that was, way too Simple!

SHUT HIM DOWN

ARE WE RUNNING SUPER NOW!Lets leave idle set at 700 RPM, just is sorta a good even speed![Especially to help warm up]. If you get a lot of tailpipe “Rumbling” or “Popping” during DECELERATION (foot completely off of gas) you may want to drop idle slightly. I WOULD STAY ABOVE 650 RPM (so it won’t cut off) and BELOW 750 RPM (STAY IN IDLE CIRCUIT, NOT ON PRIMARIES)!

LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES, TELL ME YOUR/MY PROBLEM AREAS SO I CAN TRY TO GET IT/EDIT RIGHT, FOR THE NEXT POOR SOUL THAT MIGHT READ IT!

THIS IS FOR A 258 6 CYLINDER WITH A STEPPER MOTOR CARB We have disabled many things on your rig, Carb. Replacement recommendation is: A 1979 ERA BBD. I also like a manual choke. Let you pick when you need it, there are fewer automatic things messing up, if one is installed..... (Insure your choke is functioning properly, whatever set-up you have........... ”Take off “the breather cover and inspect whether it goes closed, when the throttle arm is actuated, WHEN IT IS HAS NOT BEEN RUNNING---(AND IS “COLD”, LIKE ON A COOL MORNING!)

I WANT YOU TO TELL ME ALL OF THE DRAMA, HEARTACHE, AND ANY “SCRATCHING OF THE HEAD EXPERIENCES” CAUSED BY MY ANSWERS!”. SO I CAN IMPROVE---NEXT GUY MIGHT UNDERSTAND THE SITUATION!

Correct terminology for stuff, I sorta made a name up for----Can be found in your manual!
Wash your engine (inexpensively and well) with “Purple Power” Let it sit for about 5 minutes, KEEP IT OFF OF EXTERIOR PAINT! Rinse with a hard stream of water. (Rinse body well too, IN CASE SOME GETS ON IT). If you soak dist. Cap (a lot) and trouble cranking up, Remove cap and dry it out.

Close your hood----ONLY OPEN IT NOW, FOR YOUR FRIENDS TO ADMIRE IT!
We will play with your accelerator pump next....... IF WE NEED TO.
Now while driving, does it Hesitate, when you give it pedal?

What’s Next Boss?
I was told by a “Big Guy” that we had the Longest Question/ Answer session so far; he was well pleased and Loved it! (How could you not Love me?)... Lets make it a record, Keep throwing stuff at me.
I HAVE ONE MORE THING YOU MAY WANT TO CAN TRYLET ME KNOW, IF YOU WANT TO SEE IT---I HAVE PICS ON STAND-BY

IT’S SORT OF A FIELD, ON THE VEHICLE, CARBURATOR CLEAN-OUT, PROCEDURE! (May improve your “Sweet Spot”), I found it works well, when you find idle running crappy, for no reason!

I am finished with adjusting the mixture screws!

The is a big ruckus going on in the Garage, where both of my Jeeps are at.I guess I'll have to run 'em all off again, before my Wife wakes up!

The Medic

Sounds like the Water pump

Use a bright light and a small mirror to look for it!

Many times, they drip from a small hole on the bottom of the pump, when they start going bad.

You gonna do this replacement yourself?

It's not real hard!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is it at Advance Auto (price w/ my zip code)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product__5421322-P_54_R%7CGRPCOOLAMS_1391319109___?zoneAssigned=1

All you would need extra is maybe 2 gallons of antifreeze ( I mix mine 70% Coolant, 30% Water, then pour it in, to be assured it is 70/30. If I add later, it's poured in already mixed 70/30.....always right, no matter what capacity is needed)

And some "Indian Head" or other brand gasket shellac

Maybe $55 or so, total, unless you want to replace the hoses/ belts, while you're in there.

How much would a shop out there charge?.......I feel it would be MUCH!

This would be a GREAT, 1st Jeep "MECHANICAL" repair!

It's not real complicated (YOUR REAR BRAKES ARE A LITTLE MORE COMPLICATED, BUT I COULD GET YOU THRU THAT TOO!), and it's basically like removing a bolted on cover, once you get the belts, fan and hoses off.

I KNOW AND YOU KNOW,.............YOU'RE THE MAN!!!!!!

I WILL GIVE YOU CONFIDENCE, IF YOU LACK IT.........GET DOWN, AND KNOCK OUT 50!!!

You could have it finished in 3 Hours or less (me, 1-1/2 hours or less)...(And I take pics and clean to perfection)...If you stay on it!

It's just like building a MODEL CAR, like when you were a kid, 'cept it's bigger!

Yes..........I will help you!

Got decent SAE Wrenches and a DECENT 3/8 Drive socket set?

If it is the pump, WHEN YOU PICK UP THE REPLACEMENT, A re-manufactured one is FINE!.....Unless a new one is close in price, stick with the REMAN!

It's a small job like this that will make you feel good, and save you money.

Just please let me know what "THEY" would nail you, to do this EZ task.

The Medic