'84 CJ7 258 I6 Weber 32/36 carb TFI igniton.

WHAT DOES IT DO OR NOT DO?

I HAVE A LOT OF INFO AND A LOT OF PICS

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JUST SAW YOUR OTHER POSTING

BEEN A LONG TIME---INSURE YOU HAVE A ROTOR BUTTON AND IT TURNS WITH THE ENGINE TURNING

LETS TEST THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP

2 TESTS1 IS FOR THE GROUND---ONE IS FOR THE WINDING. SEE MY PICS

YOUR FUEL FILTER NEEDS TO BE TURNED LITTLE T. IT UP (RETURN LINE AT 12 O'CLOCK)

I HAD A DGEV ON MINE BEFORE THE HOLLEY

THIS DIAGRAM IS OF A 1979----HAS A RESISTANCE WIRE---DOES YOURS HAVE ONE AFTER THE MODS?PIC IS OF COIL THAT IS USED WITH A CJ WITH A RESISTANCE WIRE

MY PRESENT '77 CJ 5 ORIGINALLY DID NOT HAVE ONE WITH THE ORIGINAL PRESTOLITE IGNITION---I SWITCHED OVER TO A MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM LIKE YOURS ORIGINALLY HAD.I ADDED A "BALLAST RESISTOR" TO TAKE THE PLACE OF THE RESISTANCE WIRE TO KEEP IT ALL LIKE A '79.I NOW USE A '79s COIL (SEE PIC). IF I USED ONE WITH AN INTERNAL RESISTOR I'D HAVE DOUBLE RESISTANCE.T'WOULD BE A NO-GO!

BY THE WAY. REALLY PERTTY JEEP!

MY '77 AND '46

KEEP ME POSTED AS YOU PROGRESS

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THE INFO IN THIS LINK, MIGHT ALSO AID YOU

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

"A124" WAS WORKING STILL, A FEW DAYS AGO

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ZAT ON THE POSITIVE SID OF THE COIL?

HOW 'BOUT IS THERE ANY INFO WRITTEN ON IT?.....I DO NOT RECOGNIZE THE PART

DID YOU FLOP AND MOVE THE WIRES INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE YOU WERE TESTING?.....COULD BE A BREAK IN ONE PRIOR TO IT REACHING THE PICK UP

YOU CAN STAB A STRAIGHT PIN INTO THE WIRE ON EITHER SIDE OF IT (OR USE THE COIL TERMINAL AS ONE) AND MEASURE THE VOLTAGE BEFORE AND AFTER IT

THAT IS---GROUND YOUR BLACK VOLTMETER LEAD TO THE BATTERY AND TOUCH THE STRAIGHT PIN WITH THE RED LEAD.......THEN TOUCH THE SAME WIRE (IN THE COIL CONNECTOR) W/ THE RED LEAD. SEE IF THERE IS A VOLTAGE DROP

LOOKING AT THE BLUE WIRE IN THE PIC---I'M GUESSING THAT'S PART OF A "NUTTER BYPASS"?

WHAT IS THE RECENT HISTORY PRIOR TO THE "NO BUST OFF AND RUN" SITUATION.....LIKE PLAYING WITH WIRING, ADD-ONS, OR ANYTHING SINCE IT RAN THE LAST TIME?........HOW DID IT RUN....WHEN IT DID?

I NEED YOU TO PROMISE ME SOMETHING!

I WANT YOU TO HAVE A 1/2? WRENCH HANDY----LIKE SITTING ON THE BATTERY (INSURE YOU CAN TAKE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL LOOSE FAST!!!!!!............OR INSTALL ONE OF THESE

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_universal-switch-bwd_18970154-p?searchTerm=battery+switch

......AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER TOO..........WHILE WE MESS WITH THE WIRES

SEE-UNS THAT YOUR WIRING IS LOOSE (MAY BE A GOOD THING AS FAR AS, ONE MIGHT NOT MELT ANOTHER---LIKE THEY WOULD IN A WIRE LOOM

I'VE SEEN OTHER VEHICLES BURN TO THE GROUND......IF ONLY THEY HAD THOUGHT A LITTLE AHEAD (LIKE I'M DOING FOR YOU!)

DID YOU DO THE WIRING THAT I'M SEEING IN YOUR PIC?

DID YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND THE PROMO THING?....OR ANYTHING ELSE I'M SHOVELLING?

HOW'M I DOIN' AS AN INSTRUCTOR?

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JUST TO POUND IT IN

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=tO1HdXqRKNQ&feature=endscreen

I THREW UP, THEN HAD A SEIZURE WHEN I CLICKED ON THIS ONE!

I WILL HAVE TO STOP WATCHING THESE SCARY MOVIES---I THINK I'LL HAVE NIGHTMARES NOW

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(And now checking for voltage to verify the location of a possible break in the wire?)

NEGATIVE!--CONTINUITY ONLY FOR THE PICK-UP ON THE DISTRIBUTOR. SHAKE/ PUSH/ PULL WHILE DOING SO---SEE IF CONTINUITY FLICKERS ON THE VOLTMETER

YOU CAN ALSO USE A 1.5 - 3 VOLT BATTERY OPERATED "CONTINUITY LIGHT" TO DO THIS *****NOT A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT!*****THIS MIGHT EVEN BE QUICKER TO SEE THAN A DIGITAL VOLTMETER

YOU CAN EVEN "MacGYVER" YOU ONE USING A SMALL FLASH-LIGHT AND SOME JUMPER WIRES

AS FAR AS USING USING 12 VOLTS FOR A TEST (KEY ON). TEST THE VOLTAGE ON EITHER SIDE OF WHAT TO THINK IS A BALLAST RESISTORIF IT IS, THE VOLTAGE WILL BE LOWER ON THE COIL SIDE OF IT. IF IT'S THE SAME. IT PROBABLY IS SOMETHING ELSE

GOT MORE IN A BIT---HAVE MISSION RIGHT NOW. BACK IN A FEW HOURS

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YOU STILL CAN POSSIBLY USE THE advanceautoparts. Com SITE FOR PARTS

YOU DON'T NECESSARILY HAVE TO PICK THEM UP AT THE STORE, LIKE I'M DOING (EXCEPT FOR SOME STUFF LIKE BATTERIES) DURING THE ORDER PROCESS, THEY WILL TELL YOU WHETHER IT IS "SHIPPABLE" OR NOT, WHEN YOU CLICK ON THE "SHIP TO ME OPTION"

YOU CAN DO A "DRY RUN" TO SEE WHAT IT WILL DO, PRIOR TO PAYING AND COMPLETING THE ORDER

. SO WHAT, YOU WAIT 3 MORE DAYS, SHIPPING MIGHT BE $10. DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU ORDER, $40 MINUS $10 = $30 $30 IS $30 ! ! ! IN MY BOOK ANYWAY. THAT'S LIKE SQUEEZING THE THE TRIGGER ON THE NOZZLE AT GAS STATION, FOR MAYBE A FULL 10 SECONDS!

OK---I JUST SPENT A WHILE TRYING TO 'SPLAIN THE NUTTER vs THE WAY I'VE DONE IT ON OTHER JEEPS, I ONE PIC.I HOPE I 'SPAINED IT RIGHT!

ALSO WHEN I HAVE SHORTENED THE SALVAGE YARD "FORD WIRE HARNESS" (AS WHEN I HAVE BEEN OUT "PICKING" THE ONES WITH 4 WIRES WERE ALWAYS WAY LONGER THAN FOR THE JEEP'S NEEDS) WHEN I SHORTENED THEM, I USED HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND SOLDERED THE WIRES TOGETHER, BUTT SPLICING, SOMETIMES OVER TIME WILL SHAKE LOOSE AND IS MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CORROSION

WHEN YOU RESPOND AGAIN, WITH ASSURANCE YOU WILL NOT LET YOUR JEEP TURN INTO A "CRISPY CRITTER" WE WILL DO A LITTLE "BYPASS JUMPERING" TO SEE IF WE CAN MAKE IT BUST OFF. THEN WE WILL DECIDE WHAT TO DO TO GET IT RUNNING THRU THE NORMAL SYSTEM

HAVE YOU HAD THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT?

WE MAY WANNA START THERE (I'LL GUIDE YOU THRU THE PROCESS, IF YOU DID NOT FULY KNOW, YOU WILL WHEN WE GET DONE!) JUST TO INSURE IT IS ALL LINED UP LIKE IT SHOULD BE

I'M NOT MR. CYBER GUY, I ONLY TOUCHED A KEYBOARD FOR THE 1ST TIME, IN DEC 'O9 WHEN I WAS LAID UP WITH A BROKEN FOOT W/ COMPLICATIONS.I CONSTANTLY CALLED MY SISTER AND MADE HER COME OVER TO 'SPLAIN STUFF TO ME.

HOW DID YOU COME ACROSS MY STUFF? IS IT POPULAR ON SEARCHES? WILD GUESSING, HOW MANY OF MY JEEP POST ANSWERINGS HAVE YOU GANDERED AT?

LEMME KNOW ABOUT THE DISTRIBUTOR

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ANY GOOD STUFF HAPPEN YET?

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JUST SAW THIS NOTIFICATION---I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG YOU'VE BEEN WAITING

THE DISTRIBUTOR IS A NICE THING TO KNOW

I WILL TRY TO EXPLAIN THIS --- AFTER I GO SMOKE ME A MENTHOL!

DO YOU HAVE A TACH/ DWELL METER?

TIMING LIGHT?

WE WILL NEED THIS TO GET THE DISTRIBUTOR DEAD ON AND ALSO TO TWEAK ON THE CARB (A BIT LATER)

THIS NEW BIT OF INFORMATION MAY BE THE SOLUTION TO IT RUNNING!

BACK IN A BIT

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ALL RIGHTY THEN

JUST SHOWING YOU---DOES NOT MAKE YOU KNOW THE WHYs (NECESSARY, WHEN I'M NOT AROUND)

DO YOU UNDERSTAND WHAT 4 STROKE MEANS?

ANY QUESTIONS---ASK BEFORE YOU PROCEED!

I'M NOT INTO ALL OF THESE "HIGH SPEED MODS", THE BASICS HAVE WORKED FOR ME SINCE I GOT # 1 BACK IN 1981----I DO DO "IMPROVEMENT MODS" OR "USER FRIENDLIER MODS"........NOT MUCH FOR JACKING ONE WAY UP OR RACING ONE

THIS IS HOW A 258 WORKS----OTHER ENGINES ARE SIMILAR!

LOOK AT PIC 1VIEWED FROM THE TOP OF THE DISTRIBUTORTHE FIRING ORDER IS 1--5--3--6--2--4 IN A CLOCKWISE DIRECTION

PIC 1 IS MY JEEP----MY WIRES ARE ON EXACTLY AS THE BOOK SHOWS

HERE'S THE THING---IT WILL STILL WORK---IF I PUT NUMBER 1 WIRE ANYWHERETHEN START THE CLOCKWISE SEQUENCE FROM THAT POINTTHE THING THAT MOST DO NOT UNDERSTAND IS THE ENGINE MUST BE ON TOP DEAD CENTER---THEN WHEN YOU INSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR THE ROTOR BUTTON MUST POINT AT #1 WIRE/ TOWER.....WHEREVER #1 IS!!!!.....THE ENGINE DON'T CARE AS LONG AS EVERYTHING IS LINED UP INTERNALLY!

JUST TO KEEP THINGS ORDERLY---WE WILL INSTALL YOURS BY THE BOOK TOO---THEN IN THE FUTURE---THE BOOK WILL MAKE MORE SENSE---SHOULD YOU FORGET THIS STUFF

SO LOOK AT #1 WIRE ON MINE, IT'S JUST ABOVE THE END OF THE VACUUM ADVANCE ARM THAT YOU CAN SEE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE DISTRIBUTOR----1-5-3-6-2-4 CLOCKWISE----INSURE THEY CORRESPOND WITH THE SPARK PLUGS...."1" IS AT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE---"6" IS AT THE BACK!

NOW THEN---TAKE A MARKER AND MARK THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY BELOW THE PLASTIC DISTRIBUTOR CAP---WITH A VERTICAL LINE---SEE PIC 2

THE NEXT THING I WILL SHOW YOU IS I LIKE TO EXPLAIN TURNING THE ENGINE OVER WITH A RATCHET OR WRENCH---SEE PIC 3

IF YOU BUMP IT WITH THE KEY OR WITH A "REMOTE STARTER"---YOU RUN THE RISK OF OVERSHOOTING TDC (AND NOT KNOW IT)

THE RATCHET/ WRENCH WILL DO JUST FINE FOR GETTING A "COMPRESSION SPIT"

YOU WILL REMOVE #1 SPARK PLUG ---SO YOU CAN STICK YOUR THUMB IN THE HOLE----OR YOU CAN LEAVE THE PLUG IN WITH MAYBE JUST 2 OR 3 THREADS HOLDING IT IN

THE IDEA HERE IS TO ROTATE THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE ---MAYBE UP TO 2 REVOLUTIONS ---REMEMBER THIS IS A 4 STROKE---IT WILL ONLY BUILD COMPRESSION ONE TIME IN 2 REVOLUTIONS

WHEN IT DOES---BUILD COMPRESSION---YOU WILL HEAR A "SPIT" AT YOUR THUMB---OR A "HISS" AT THE VERY LOOSE #1 SPARK PLUG

STOP----STOP ---STOP!!!!

WE ARE STARTING COMPRESSION!.........(NORMALLY COMPRESSING THE AIR/ FUEL MIXTURE IF IT WERE RUNNING)

WE WANT TO FINALLY STOP AT THE "END OF THE COMPRESSION STROKE"

WHEN THE ENGINE "IS" RUNNING---THIS IS THE EDGE OF THE CLIFF!

THE PISTON WILL START "DOWN" AND THE SPARK PLUG WOULD THEN FIRE.......(FIRES ON THE "POWER STROKE")......THIS IS THE REASON WE MUST POINT THE ROTOR BUTTON AT #1.......WE ARE DEALING WITH THE #1s VALVE TIMING......#1 IS THE ONE THAT SHOULD BE FIRING NOW!!!!

WE ARE ALMOST THERE!

FORGET THE HISS AND SPIT....IT HAS GOTTEN YOU CLOSE TO WHERE YOU NEED TO BE!

WE WILL NOW VERY SLOWLY CONTINUE TO TURN THE ENGINE CLOCKWISE WHILE WATCHING THE TIMING MARKS!

WE WANT TO STOP ON "0" (ZERO) SEE PIC 4

THE MARKS SHOULD COME UP IN LESS THAN A 1/2 REVOLUTION OF THE CRANK (PROBABLY MORE LIKE A 1/4 TURN)IF YOU WENT ANY FURTHER THAN 1/2 A TURN..........

DO IT AGAIN FROM THE BEGINNING.....YOU WENT TOO FAR!!!

----ON A 258 "ZERO" IS THE 2ND MARK UP FROM THE BOTTOM---ZERO IS TOP DEAD CENTER OR "TDC"

TDC IS OUT TIMING ALIGNMENT "KNOW POINT"EVERYTHING IS IN SYNC WITH THIS--LIKE THE CAM AND DISTRIBUTOR

YOU MIGHT USE SOME CARB CLEANER AND CLEAN YOUR TIMING MARKS----WHITE OUT IN THE HARMONIC BALANCER MARK WILL MAKE IT STAND OUT

OK

WONDERFUL!!!

WE ARE ON TDC!!!!!

REMOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND SEE WHERE THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING

IF IT'S DEAD ON AT YOUR MARK (OR VERY CLOSE) THAT YOU DREW ON THE BODY.........NORMAL TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT WILL MAKE IT RIGHT

IF IT'S POINTING ELSEWHERE----TAKE THE HOLD DOWN FORK OFF LIFT THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT SLIGHTLY (SHOULD BE A ROUND GASKET UNDER IT)

IT WILL TWIST THE ROTOR SHAFT, ON THE WAY UP

ROTATE THE ROTOR BUTTON SO THAT AS IT SLIDES BACK IN---WHEN IT SITS ALL OF THE WAY DOWN THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING AT YOUR MARK

ALMOST DONE!!!!

IT MAY NOT SIT BACK DOWN ALL OF THE WAY?????....WHY????

DON'T FORCE IT!!!

THE BOTTOM END OF YOUR DISTRIBUTOR SHAFT IS A "FAT STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER POINT"

OF YOU LOOK DOWN IN THE DISTRIBUTOR HOLE WITH A FLASHLIGHT YOU WILL SEE A SLOT LIKE A STRAIGHT SCREW HEAD IN THE BOTTOM..........THIS IS THE OIL PUMP !!!

AS THE CAM TURNS THE DISTRIBUTOR---THE DISTRIBUTOR TURN THE OIL PUMP!

THIS IS SIMPLE ---IT MAY TAKE A FEW TRIES

WE NEED TO LINE UP THE OIL PIMP SHAFT WITH A LONG SCREWDRIVER---SO THAT THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL DROP IN FULLY......I USUALLY GIVE IT AN 1/8TH OF A TURN AND TRY TO DROP IT IN--ANOTHER 1/8TH AND TRY---ANOTHER 1/8TH......

IN THE END

YOU HAVE NOT MOVED THE ENGINE (CRANK) FROM TDC---THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY----HAS AMPLE CW AND CCW ABILITY WITHOUT BOTTOMING AGAINST THE BLOCK (SO WE CAN TIME IT)---THE ROTOR BUTTON IS POINTING AT THE MARK ON THE DISTRIBUTOR---THE DISTRIBUTOR IS ALL THE WAY DOWN IN IT'S HOLE

PUT THE HOLD DOWN FORK ONINSTALL THE DISTRIBUTOR CAP

REMEMBER---I DON'T LIKE TO BUMP WITH THE STARTER---YOU WIND UP OVERSHOOTING THE MARKS---YOU DO THE REST OF THE PROCEDURE........YOU ARE NOW 180 DEGREES OFF.....BUT YOU THINK YOU ARE ON????

I'M SENDING "DAVID AND CHAD" TO GIVE YOU A HAND.....LET THEM EXPLAIN THIS A FEW TIMES BEFORE YOU START.....THEY DON'T MIND AT ALL!

CLASS 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

CLASS 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=endscreen

OK---LATE AND I'M TIRED......I THINK I HAVE TOLD YOU CORRECTLY

ASK IF THERE'S AN ISSUE

SEND PICS OF YOUR ENGINE---GETTING STUFF CORRECT---THEN CORRECT TIMING---THEN CARB TUNING ARE GONNA BE NEXT!

YOUR TURN

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SENT YOU A MESSAGE---GO TOP RIGHT OF PAGE--CLICK ON YOUR NAME TO FIND "MESSAGES"

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AS WE MESSAGED

THE ENGINE IS AT "TDC"WHERE IT STANDS NOW---LOOKING AT THE PICS

THE DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS TO BE PICKED UP AND MOVE THE ROTOR BUTTON "ONE COG" CW (MAYBE 2)----SET IT BACK DOWN. INSURE THE OIL PUMP GETS TWEAKED CLOCKWISE ALSO SO THE DISTRIBUTOR WILL FULLY SIT DOWN

THE REASON WE WANT TO MOVE ONE OR TWO COGS CW ISWHEN WE TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY TO MATCH THE MARKWE WILL HAVE SOME LEE-WAY TO TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR WHEN WE TIME IT

AS IT STANDS NOW (EVERYTHING LOOKED GOOD. EXCEPT)THE BAD THING IS, IF WE HAD TO TWIST THE DISTRIBUTOR CCW TO TIME IT----WE WOULD HIT THE ENGINE BLOCK, BEFORE WE REACHED OUR DESIRED TIMING SETTING. LEARNING EXPERIENCE!

ONCE WE FEEL SURE THE DISTRIBUTOR IS INSTALLED RIGHTLET'S SEE IF IT WILL FIRE UP!

JUST TO MAKE IT RUN---I'D SAY YOU COULD MOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR BODY. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS (NOT DEGREES) FROM THE PRESENT SETTING, 3/4 OF AN INCH MOVEMENT, EITHER WAY MAY GET IT TO RUN. TWEAK IT "BY EAR" TO SMOOTH IT OUT. TIMING LIGHT WILL BE THE NEXT BEST THING TO GET IT DEAD ON!

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SEE-UNS HOW IT LOOKS LIKE YOU HAVE REWIRED THE WHOLE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

YOU MAY NOT HAVE KNOWN THAT YOU REPLACED THE "RESISTANCE WIRE", WHICH IS IN-BETWEEN 2 SPLICES (SEE DIAGRAM), WITH A PLAIN JANE COPPER WIRE

THIS WIRE REDUCES THE VOLTAGE TO THE COIL---OTHERWISE, OVER TIME, YOU WILL BURN UP IGNITION COMPONENTS IF YOU RUN FULL BATTERY/ ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE TO IT CONSTANTLY

NORMALLY, YOU GET AN INITIAL BOOST OF FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE AT "START-UP", PROVIDED THRU THE "I" TERMINAL OF THE SOLENOID. WHEN THE KEY IS RELEASED FROM THE "START POSITION"."I TERMINAL" DIES AND THE RESISTOR WIRE (OR BALLAST) TAKES OVER WITH REDUCED VOLTAGE (WHICH ORIGINATES AT THE "ON POSITION" OF THE KEY)

IN AN DESPERATE SITUATION, YOU CAN JUMP A PLAIN WIRE OVER THE RESISTANCE WIRE (IF IT'S BROKEN SOMEWHERE---OR REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE BALLAST RESISTOR AND CONNECT THEM DIRECTLY---JUST TO SORTA "GET YOU HOME"

.I'VE YET TO SEE THE FACTORY RESISTANCE WIRE GO BAD (WITHOUT SOME HELP). BUT THIS IS GOOD INFO TO KNOW ABOUT THE BALLAST RESISTOR (I'VE SEEN THEM GO OUT A FEW TIMES) WHEN YOU ARE SCRATCHING YOUR HEAD ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THEN YOU BREAK OUT YOUR "TRAVEL VOLTMETER" AND FIND NO VOLTAGE TO THE POS SIDE OF THE COIL. AND YOU DO HAVE IT ON ONE SIDE OF THE BALLAST, BUT NOT THE OTHER. REMOVE AND CONNECT THE WIRES, AND YOU ARE IN BUSINESS!

PICS
1) BALLAST RESISTOR
2) COIL FOR 1979--1986 CJs AND 1987-1989 WRANGLER
3) I UPGRADED MY '77 PRESTOLITE IGN TO A '79 AND UP MOTORCRAFT IGN (FOR SEVERAL REASONS). THIS IS WHERE I PUT MY BALLAST RESISTOR
4) IGNITION DIAGRAM FOR A 1979LOCATION OF RESISTANCE WIRE AND BALLAST RESISTOR ARE THE SAME FOR LATER YEARS

EVERY THING ELSE IS THE SAME TOO, EXCEPT FOR THE BLACK WIRE FROM THE MODULE TO THE DISTRIBUTOR
5) EXPLANATION OF THE SOLENOID----WHY I PUT THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE OPPOSITE FROM "THE BOOK" ON THE SOLENOID
6) THE REASON I DID THE "SWAP" ( STARTER CABLE IS NOW FURTHEST FROM "S" TERMINAL)
7) TESTING VOLTAGE AT POS SIDE OF COIL
8) ADVANCE AUTO PARTS---STORE TESTER FOR IGN MODULES---I LAID THE PIGTAIL OUT FOR THE MOTORCRAFT MODULE RIGHT BESIDE IT (THERE ARE PIGTAILS FOR MANY OTHER APPLICATIONS)
9) ONE OF MY REMOTE STARTERS

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WHAT?

WHERE'D MY PICS GO?

I TRY AGAIN