Engine will not start and run?

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The Cold Start Injector, located on the intake manifold plenum, is a solenoid operated injector, similar to the main port injectors. However, the cold start injector is designed to stay open for seconds of operation rather than milliseconds. Operation is controlled by the Cold Start Time Switch and the ignition switch and takes place only at cold start, in order to aid in faster starting of a cold engine.

When cranking a cold engine, (below 60° F), the ignition switch applies power to terminal STA of the Cold Start Injector and terminal STA of the Time Switch, which grounds the Cold Start Injector and allows fuel to be delivered into the intake plenum. Fuel delivery stops when the ignition switch is released from its cranking mode and the port injectors take over all fuel delivery.

See pics 1 and 2

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Here are the testing procedures for the cold start time switch, which I suspect it the problem:

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1990 Toyota Celica L4-122 1998cc 2.0L DOHC Turbo (3S-GTE)
Component Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Sensors and Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Thermo Time Switch Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Component Test
COMPONENT TEST
1. Unplug connector from Cold Start Injector Time Switch.
2. Connect a voltmeter to terminal STA on the harness and ground, while an assistant turns the ignition switch to the start position (crank mode).
3. Measure the voltage while the starter is operating.

Voltage: 9.5 - 12.5 volts

4. If no voltage is present, check ignition switch and harness wiring for an open circuit.
5. Using an Ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the Cold Start Injector Time Switch.
Measuring Cold Start Injector Time Switch Resistance

Pic 3

TERMINALS: RESISTANCE:

STA - STJ 30 - 50 Ohms below 50°F (10°C)
STA - STJ 70 - 90 Ohms above 77°F (25°C)
STA - GROUND 30 - 90 Ohms

6. If not as specified, replace the Cold Start Injector Time Switch.
7. Remove Ohmmeter and reconnect the Time Switch connector.

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I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

The timing belt is stripped and also you have a valve and ignition timing off-you can crank it all day and it will not start. It doesn't matter if you have spark and fuel. When you turn the key to the on position without cranking the engine over can you hear the fuel pump run in the tank for 5 seconds?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please run down this guide and report back.

Spark at the coil and from the coil to the coil plug tower on the cap? Pop the cap and crank the engine. My money says the rotor isn't turning. Probably the gear at the end of the distributor shaft broke or came loose.

Opa! LOL. Can't help ya there!

My pleasure. Good luck.

Remove the distributor cap and observe the rotor if its turning while cranking it over if not-Check the timing belt could be broken. If its turning could be the distributor pick-up coil and ignitor to include the cap and rotor.

Check for spark and then for fuel pressure.

Could be a leaky injector/s, fuel pressure regulator-excessive pressure

Try checking the fuel pressure-fuel pump could be weak and on its way out-also go to this walk thru link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Fuel pump requires ignition spark signal to operate. You need to find out why it is not sparking. It could be a failed timing belt, igniter, ignition coil or wiring.

Hello, I'm Danny.

That sounds like you might be having diagnostic code 24. That has to do with communication between the air temperature sensor-meter and communication with the ECU. I've attached 2 pictures below that show how to test. Hope this helps and let us know what you find. Thanks for using 2CarPros.