Does not crank over

Tiny
DAAAVEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 142,000 MILES
I had a neighbor come over last week and tell me "I know you like to work on cars. My wife wants this car out of the driveway. I'll sell it to you for $200.00. It runs fine but the brakes are a mess". So, okay, a $200. Car listed above convertible that runs. Never wrecked. He promises he did regular oil changes. I'm in.

So first we spent 8 hours detailing it. Turned out pretty nice. (See pictures)

So I went to work on the brakes and threw in a new battery. Brakes were the worst I've ever seen. But did hoses/rotors/calipers/pads all around.

I was having trouble getting them to firm up so I went ahead and replaced the master cylinder yesterday. Then bled the heck out of them and went to start the car to test. Then car won't start.

So now here's where I'm at. Nothing happens when I turn the key to start. No luck jump starting. Turning the key to accessory works - bells, lights, and dash lights up. Besides not starting, I have no radio, windshield wipers, power windows, or gas gauge and convertible top button does nothing. Headlights/tail lights work, AC works, windows work, power mirrors work, odometer and display seem normal. No codes are reporting.

I'm assuming that in reconnecting the master cylinder level sensor, I fried the ECM? I went through all the fuses today and swapped some relays around but no love. Found no blown fuses. Battery is sitting at 12.4 volts.

I did test the EATX relay. I get no power at fuse 25 when the wife turns the key for me.

I appreciate any advice. I see where I can buy an ECM out of a wreck for about $40.00 to $50.00.
Monday, September 30th, 2019 AT 7:34 PM

62 Replies

Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

In the diagrams down below I have included the wiring diagrams for your vehicle starting circuit as well as the power distribution of your vehicles electrical system. Please check Fuse #8 in the Power Distribution Center of your vehicle. I have also included the location, diagram, and callout for it in the diagrams down below as well. Please get back to us with what you find and we can go from there.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 4:39 AM
Tiny
DAAAVEMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I can't thank you enough. I would have sworn I checked all the fuses but you were right. #8 was blown. Replaced and back in business. Everything works as it should.
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Tuesday, October 1st, 2019 AT 7:14 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,207 POSTS
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.
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Friday, October 4th, 2019 AT 12:58 PM
Tiny
FLYIN3WHEELIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 168,000 MILES
The car I'm dealing with is a 2.7 liter V6, front wheel drive, automatic. The transmission was recently replaced. So I've had a lot of things disconnected including electrical components as well as my starter. The car has been sitting for almost 5 months while this transmission replacement has been in progress. Now I'm in the final stages of putting it back together. The only thing that hasn't been installed is my air filter with the hose leading to the intake along with the sensor that is in that hose. My engine should turn over but it won't. Also my gear selector in my instrument panel shows ALL of the gears selected which is wrong. I'm wondering if I may possibly have a bad starter and/or may need to reset my computer. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
There is a sensor to identify what gear you are in. If the vehicle thinks it is in gear, it won't start.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,640 POSTS
It is called a range selector (sorry)
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FLYIN3WHEELIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
How do you fix that? I'm pretty sure that sensor is towards the back side of the transmission and bolts in. The thing I'm thinking of has a small cylindrical silver part that goes into the transmission before the bolt is tightened.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Normally they are a sealed unit and it will require replacing if faulty, you can back probe the loom at the range switch and test for continuity in park and neutral and open circuit in drive range.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CISCO78
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 70,000 MILES
My car died on me on the road I pulled over and parked it and now when I turn the ignition it just clicks once but don"t turn over there is still power and its a brand new battery
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
No crank at all/nothing/nada:

Could be the starter, starter relay, clutch switch/park and neutral switch and ignition switch assuming the battery and connections are good.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MARK KELLUM
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 73,000 MILES
Went out to start car, 4thtime today and engine would not turn over. All power works, starter won't bump over
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,869 POSTS
Have you checked to make sure the battery cbles are clean nd tight?Do you have a multimeter to do some testing?
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 97,500 MILES
I went to start my car and all I got was clicking noises. I figured it was the battery, so I went ahead and went to jump it put the cables on the battery and it didnt turn over. Ive done this once before and it took a good 20 mins to charge and then it started. Is that all I have to do again?
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
The first step is to completely charge the battery and then have it tested. If the battery tests good, then you have to look into what killed it.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISPCWILLIAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 78,000 MILES
The car runs great then starves out for gas. Turn it over for a minute or let it sit it comes back to life and runs fine again then repeats the problem. No codes are being thrown. It acts like it's running out of gas when it does act up.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter and fuel pump -start here
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRISPCWILLIAMS
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Turns out it was Overheating and shutting down cyl 1 and 2
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:43 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CATHERINE MILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 3.0L
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
We changed the fuel pump, checked the filters, fuel is getting to the engine and it will crank it just wont turn over. We even sprayed starter fluid into it.
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If you disconnected battery try resetting security system if no manual look online for your car. Is it getting spark?
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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,207 POSTS
Yes it sounds like spark or injector pulse, it could be the crankshaft angle sensor.

Here is a guide that will get you going in the right direction:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Please get back to us with anything you find.

Best, Ken

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Friday, October 18th, 2019 AT 1:45 PM (Merged)

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