Tail and Parking Lights Not working?

Tiny
ZHODANI77
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 5.2L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
1st Head Light switch went bad on oem part
Replaced with aftermarket exact replacement
Replaced plug( pigtail that goes to switch) with one cut out of an exact model at junk yard
Inspected the tail lights area for broken wires

Turn signals, brake lights, and headlights all work fine
If I gently and barely pull out knob on light switch just before it goes into position for park lights The park lights illuminate but go off soon a sits into position and do not work when headlights are on. The bright and dim switch work fine its on the column while switch is on the dash

The tail lights at one time would come on with park lights when barely pulled out but Now No tail lights period

Fuses have all been pulled and the fuses at the relay under the hood has been checked as well

I am most definitely going to test power from headlight switch and from fuse panel. The Dash Lights, parking lights and taillights are what's not working ( when I barely pull my light switch back but into the on position it causes the park lights to come on and radio light to dim does this additional info help narrow down the issue.

Meant to say I pull knob back but not into the on position, then the park and dash lights illuminate and the radio light dims.

This is a Brand New Switch,

The Original Had Multiple issues then finally went completely out the pigtail(plug) had melted on The Green wire in the center of the switch.

I changed That plug as well,

I would Like to know what Color wires go to what and where The grounds are for each tail light, license plate illumination lights, dash lights, and front parking lights.

I am Thinking Ground (s) are Bad. Maybe a Hot Wire is broken somewhere to tail lights and again come Tuesday I am gonna try a known good switch from the junkyard it came from their yard truck same place pig tail came from to verify same issue and eliminate switch and plug as culprits

Are The Turn signals, Brake lights, and Tail lights all The same Ground?
Brake and turns work just not running lights.
2. I got a tester light to illuminate from Black w/ yellow wire to ground on switch, on tail lights that same color goes to near every light back there too

3. Could the loss of ground be stopping lights from working in normal parking light position and maybe grounding when its not in its actual position a si barely pull knob out?

I work long hours friday-saturday-sunday-monday so please hang in there till this issue is resolved I will post the corrective steps that was taken to get full resolution for others as well
Thursday, March 6th, 2014 AT 2:26 PM

45 Replies

Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • MECHANIC
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I agree with the ground issue since you said there was melting. that or there's a broken wire caused by the melting. I have sent a diagram of the circuit and a guide to help you test it. let me know if it helps or you need more.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
ZHODANI77
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Help me here. That diagram is key to making sure I have correct wires in top shape all the way from headlight switch back. I ran new undamaged wires the whole way it fixed the problem. Thanks for your help.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
KNOWLEDGE IS POWER
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,136 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
FORENSICS
  • MEMBER
  • 106 POSTS
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 3.9L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 198,000 MILES
So I about a year ago obtained the old truck listed above, it is my first truck. I am going to be getting my drivers license soon as well and I have been fixing it up so by the time I can drive it can be driven. So it is almost ready for the road but one problem is when the headlights are turned on the tail lights do not come on, the indoor roof light does not come on, and the dash lights do not work. They did work for a couple of seconds and I heard a fizzling noise and poof all of these things do not work. It turns out the fuse that goes to all those things was not the right one in there was a 15amp fuse. Now I would not say I am bad when it comes to wiring but it is pretty difficult to sort through a million wires to find a burnt wire that goes to these things or it may even be the light switch that popped, but I have no idea how to test that. It would be great to fix that so anybody who has had this problem or if you know how to fix it that would be amazing or to test if the light switch is bad though I have no clue on how to do that.

Thank you for any information on the topic
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

First, my hat is off to you for what you are doing. You will learn a lot by taking your time and trying to fix things.

Okay, with that being said, I read through the wiring schematic for the tail lights, instrument cluster, and interior dome light. Every one of the items you mentioned tie into the headlight switch. I also check my manual for headlight switch testing, and it indicates there is no information from the manufacturer. So, here is what I have done, I have attached a wiring schematic for the tail lights and interior lights. Please make sure never to put a higher amp fuse in place of what is recommend by the manufacturer. The would be a recipe for a fire.

Next, I have no idea what knowledge you have for testing wiring, so I have listed a couple links which discuss doing so. Additionally, I have attached links explaining how to use a volt/multi-meter and a test light.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Take a look at the schematic to help guide you through the wiring. It can be a nightmare, but may need to be done. I cannot be certain, but there is a chance it could be the switch itself. But just like you are thinking, it could simply be a short. Before you tear into everything, remove the rear tail lights and make sure a socket for one or more of the bulbs is not bad and causing the fuse to blow. Those sockets pick up a lot of dirt from under the truck over the years and corrode, rust. It could be that simple. Also, remove the bulb and make sure the pins inside it are not sunk into the plastic which could create a short.

Also, if you follow the wiring from the tail lights, you will find about two feet in from the back of the bed (on each side) they wiring harness plugs into another harness. If you even question that the tail lights are an issue, disconnect both sides and see if it prevents a fuse from blowing. If it does, you have narrowed things down to the last two feet of the truck and it will make your life much easier.

If you question the sockets, upload a picture for me. Over the years, I have owned seven Dakotas. Great trucks! But I am in PA and the salt from winter driving has eaten all the first generation's frames away. I am not stuck with a third gen.

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask any question you may have or if you need more information.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Thank you so much this information will definitely be helpful. Later today I am going to use my multi-meter to test the fuses and I have a junkyard that is not too far away and last I checked they had a switch for my truck to test out as well. I do have one question, if those lights are not on will the fuse be producing any current or is it always producing a current as long as it has a connection to power?
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Welcome back.

That is a good question. There is always power to the fuse on the battery side regardless if the fuse is blown. When the fuse blows, it stops the current from continuing to the component. Now, regardless if the lights are on or not, there should always be power at the fuse, on both sides of the fuse if it is good, or only on the battery side, if the fuse is blown.

Did you have a chance to check the tail light sockets? I have a strange feeling that is where the problem is starting.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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The only one that was not fine was the left reverse light plug it had rust all over it and needs to be replaced. So I will probably tear one off of a junkyard Dakota and wire it in. I did try using the multi-meter and I do not know exactly how it works so I tried using 20 on DCV and when on the fuse it would just go back and forth from.1 to.0 and if I hooked it to the fuse on 200M it would go anywhere from 1.0 to 8.0 on other fuses, but if I hooked it to the fuse that connects the dash lights and such there would be no voltage, but if I pull the fuse out and stick it in to the socket holes I get a voltage. It does the the same thing for all fuses that I put into it, so I have no clue what that means and all the fuses I put into it are practically brand new.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Good work. You are on the right track. Since you get power when the fuse is removed, you need to check two things. First, make sure there is not a corrosion issue with the contact in the fuse box. Make sure the fuse is making good contact. Next, remove the fuse and check it for continuity. Basically, you are checking to see if power goes through the fuse. Even though the fuse may look good, it may be bad. On your multi meter, set it for continuity. There should be a battery in the meter which will provide a small amount of power in this mode. The meter battery will show continuity when you touch the two leads together. It should do the same when you touch one lead to one side of the fuse and the other lead to the other side of the fuse.

Do me a favor. I want you to locate the wiring harness connectors on the rear of the frame which go to the tail lights and disconnect both sides. That way, we know for sure if the problem likes from there back once you get power going.

Let me know what you find.

Take care and good luck.

Joe
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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I had an afterthought. If you find that there is power which is lost when the fuse is put in, make sure the connector to that circuit is in good shape under the fuse box. It may lose power when too much is required of it.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Alright, I will check that. Is there a special way to open up the fuse box to see all the wires on the other side to check for the bad connections?
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MOUSEY425
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 300,000 MILES
In my truck I have headlight but no tail light, dashlight and front parking lights are out trun singles work ok. I have checked fuse all ok and replace the headlight switch but still no not working pls help
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Wow! I thought I had a lot of miles on mine at 221K. I hope it last that long.

As far as the electrical, have you checked fuses under the hood? Have you checked for any disconnected wires under the dash? Finally, have you checked the high beam switch on the column?
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
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Here are some pictures and a video of my truck if any of this helps.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
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Did you check voltage to and from the headlamp switch? The black wire with yellow tracer carries voltage for tail-lamps. Use a voltage tester on the wire, head lamp switch on. If no voltage, check the feed wire to the headlamp switch for tail lamps, above in the diagram.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_dakota_headlamp_switch_2.jpg

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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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I watched the video and noticed there has been a lot of work as far as splices done to the wiring. Try what I said. Disconnect the rear tail light harnesses from both sides (which will also disconnect the license plate lights), and see if that makes a difference.

As far as the pictures of the fuse box, it is really hard for me to identify anything from the pictures. If I recall, the box is bolted to the vehicle.

Let me know if you have any luck when you disconnect the harnesses.

Joe
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FORENSICS
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So I finally did it! I pulled down the fuse box and flipped it around and found that the wire did not burn up very far and I repaired the wired connection and now everything works, the dash lights work perfect bright and dim and both tail lights come on too. I just have to get a replacement reverse light socket for my truck since it rusted to bits and pieces. But now my truck is one step closer to being road ready, well I mean it is pretty much road ready it runs and drives. I just have basic age maintenance left to do like suspension, replace as many dry rotted hoses as possible, etc. But thank you Joe so much now my tail lights come on when I turn on the headlights which is just amazing because the electrical of that truck is just a maze, there are wires, cut grounds, and even plugs that I do not even know what goes to what. One day I will probably have to go through all of those wires and organize them better so the next time there is a problem It will be easier to find. But again thank you so much for the help on the electrical.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KRAZYSPOONHEADBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1993 DODGE DAKOTA
  • 237,000 MILES
I own a 1993 Dodge Dakota 2wd v-6. Recently my headlights stopped working, I can still turn on my brights(i have to hold the lever for them to be on, they don't stay on by themselves) and my parking lights work. I thought it could be the switch but I am unable to. Figure it out
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
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  • 9,990 POSTS
Dimmer switch sounds shot. Got a buddy with a buick same year doin same thing.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CSUTTON
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I had the same problem with my 93 Dodge Dakota 2 sh Dr. And I had to replace the headlight switch.
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Thursday, December 3rd, 2020 AT 10:13 AM (Merged)

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