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Engine low power?

Tiny
STATENAURORA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
2002 Honda Civic. Since the winter time I have had a problem with engine power when driving after the car has been idle for some time(ex. Parked at the mall). It'll start but once you start to drive it'll start to sputter, like the engine isn't getting fuel. I'll be pressing the same amount on the pedal but not much happening. I can floor it and it'll pick up and won't happen after the initial 5 mins of driving. The car is also idiling rough. Also noticable loss of power going up hills, which I'm sure happens on the flats but not as noticable Mentioned it to the dealer when I had an oil change but they could not duplicate it, no surprise there. Ok so I did use a fuel system cleaner and replaced the sparkplugs but the problem persists. I've heard it might be the timing as well as the idle control valve. Any ideas? Thank you

Error codes:

P1298 Electric Load Detector (ELD) Circuit High Voltage

Thats the code but my print out says "Manufacurer Contrl. Fuel Air Metering?

P0132 Primary Heated Oxygen Sensor (Primary HO2S) (Sensor 1) Circuit High Voltage
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STATENAURORA
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
> Ok maybe this might help. I'm determined to figure this out without
> the dealer.
> I was leaving the parking lot after shopping and the engine started to
> cut-out as described before. Instead of gunninng it and continuing on
> I parked it. I sat there in drive and allowed the car the struggle to
> reach a normal idle. It sputtered and bucked a little, but I didn't
> give it any gas(I was parked with my foot on the brake and the car in
> drive). Eventually it worked itself into a normal idle. Does this help
> any?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LYNDAL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 77,000 MILES
Hi,
Was driving at 60 miles per hour and the engine light came on. The car began losing power and would not go faster than 20 miles per hour. I drove 5 miles home and parked it and have not tried to restart. I hade recently had it inspected by an auto detail inspection before I bought it and it checked out clean.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Is check engine light on
and if so you need to have it scanned for codes
as for possibility :
tune up
mass flow sensor
o2 sensor
catalytic converter
fuel pressure
you need to check and check
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
INTERSECTIONTHRILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 197,000 MILES
I did the timing belt and broke the crank censor, It ran fine even with the it dangeling. We put in a new one and now the car is hard starting, srs, check engine, security, maitnace requried light are all on. This has me so confused and nobody seems to know whats wrong with it. Please help me this is my only vehicle.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
INTERSECTIONTHRILLER
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Please help
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,937 POSTS
Go get a diagnostic scan done and report all set fault codes here for further assistance.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
We are having some technical problems with the site so answers can be delayed. Sorry for the inconveniences.

Get a scan done and let me know the exact trouble codes for the various sensors. Ensure the engine ground circuit connections are good.

Have you checked all the fuses?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
AFMOHAMMAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 141,000 MILES
My car slow down after running 2-4 kms and my acceleration don't work anymore. If I restart my car then it runs again for 2-4 kms and slow down.
I have changed the fuel pump and fuel filter and the fuel pressure is excellent now.
I have checked my Automatic gear box and its good.

Please advice me what could be the real problem?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
Have the computer system scanned, even if the light is not on. You may have a transmission fault and/or fuel injection system fault.

You may also want to consider doing a tune-up if you haven't already changed your spark plugs.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KELLY77
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
Engine Performance problem
2002 Honda Civic Front Wheel Drive Manual

hi I was wonderin if you knew why my car would lose power as I drive, and sometimes its ok can u tell me why?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi kelly77,

There are various reasons for such a thing to happen and you need to provide more deatils as to when and how it occurred to enable us to understand the problem and offer the correct advice.

Just a wild guess, it could be the fuel filter partially clogged.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
APOORVVI
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 128,000 MILES
I have a 2002 honda civic, with 128000 miles on it.
Whenever I take it to a hill or a steep road, Engine loses power and the car runs slow (max of about 60mph) but does not stop. I tried pressing accelerator all the way down so I stopped doing that and drove it on the rightmost lane slowly.
Can you please help me identifying the problem?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Lack of acceleration, chugging, hesitating, bogging etc. Could be caused by one of the following below.

Inspect and test all the following listed below and get back with some results

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
False air leakage.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 2002 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 201,000 MILES
Driving about 45 to 50 mph when I noticed my tachometer dropping and the car losing acceleration. I also pulled over once I was pulled over I noticed my D light near my odometer to show what gear you're in would not appear either. I went through the other gears and it showed Park, Reverse, and Neutral but not drive. At this point I drove it home just another mile or so at a very slow rate of maybe 20 to 25 mph. I hooked up my OBD 2 scanner it repeatedly came with an error linkage message. Two days before the obd port was working because I pulled up a code for a check engine light which was an evap code. (Did not replace part for evap leakage). I am stumped. Confused if it could be a bad grounding or if the ECU is done for. Can anyone help?

Tachometer shut off, temperature gauge shut off.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

There could be an issue at the data link connector. Since you are getting an error code, then I suggest checking the DLC for power and ground. I am going to attach a flow chart for checking all the terminals on the DLC. You will need to use a multi meter on some tests and a simple test light will work when checking for power. The attached pics correlate with the directions.

Before we get started, here are a few links you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

______________________________________________

2002 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
DLC Circuit Troubleshooting
Vehicle Powertrain Management Computers and Control Systems Data Link Connector Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics DLC Circuit Troubleshooting
DLC CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING

If the ECM/PCM does not communicate with the OBD II scan tool, Honda PGM Tester, or I/M test equipment, do this troubleshooting procedure.

pic 1

1. Measure voltage between DLC terminal No.16 and body ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 2.

NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.16 and the No.9 BACK UP (7.5A) fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box.

pic 2

2. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.4 and No.16.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 3.

NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.4 and body ground.

pic 3

3. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.16.

Is there battery voltage?

YES - Go to step 4.

NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.5 and ECM/PCM (E3).

4. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

pic 4

5. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7.

Is there 8.5 V or more?

YES - Go to step 10.

NO - Go to step 6.

6. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
7. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). Make sure the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester is disconnected from the DLC.

pic 5

8. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and body ground.

Is there continuity?

YES - Repair short to ground in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions

NO - Go to step 9.

pic 6

9. Check for continuity between DLC terminal No.7 and ECM/PCM terminal E23.

Is there continuity?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Repair open in the wire between DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions

10. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
11. Disconnect ECM/PCM connector E (31P). Make sure the OBD II scan tool or Honda PGM Tester is disconnected from the DLC.
12. Turn the ignition switch ON (II).

pic 7

13. Measure voltage between DLC terminals No.5 and No.7.

Is there 0 V?

YES - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute a known-good ECM/PCM, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away with a known-good ECM/PCM, replace the original ECM/PCM.

NO - Repair short to power in the wire between the DLC terminal No.7 and the ECM/PCM (E23). After repairing the wire, check the DTC with the OBD II scan tool/Honda PGM Tester, and go to the DTC Troubleshooting index. See: A L L Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) > Diagnostic Trouble Code Descriptions

_________________________

Next is the gear indicator not lighting up when it is in drive. The vehicle has what is called a transmission range sensor which identifies the selected gear. It may be going bad, have a damaged or loose connector, or corrosion may be an issue. Here are the directions for checking it. The last two pics correlate with this test.

________________________

2002 Honda Civic DX Sedan L4-1668cc 1.7L SOHC MFI
Transmission Range Switch Test
Vehicle Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management Sensors and Switches - Computers and Control Systems Transmission Position Sensor/Switch Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics Transmission Range Switch Test
TRANSMISSION RANGE SWITCH TEST
Transmission Range Switch Test

Pic 8

1. Remove the transmission range switch harness connector (A) from the connector bracket (B), then disconnect the connector.

2. Check for continuity between terminals at the harness connector. There should be continuity between the terminals listed for each switch position.

In the P position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 3
No. 1 and No. 8
No. 3 and No. 8
In the R position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 9
In the N position and between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 3
No. 1 and No. 10
No. 3 and No. 10
In the D position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 2
No. 1 and No. 4
No.2 and No.4
In the D3 position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 2
No. 1 and No. 5
No.2 and No.5
In the 2 position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 6

pic 9

3. If there is no continuity between any terminal, remove the transmission range switch cover, and disconnect the connector (A) at the switch (B).

4. Check for continuity between terminals at the switch connector (c). There should be continuity between the terminals listed for each position.

In the P position, between terminals:
No. 4 and No. 5
No. 4 and No. 6
No. 5 and No. 6
In the R position, between terminals:
No. 1 and No. 4
In the N position, between terminals:
No. 4 and No. 5
No. 4 and No. 7
No.5 and No.7
In the D position, between terminals:
No.2 and No.4
No. 2 and No. 10
No. 4 and No. 10
In the D3 position, between terminals:
No. 4 and No. 8
No. 4 and No. 10
No. 8 and No. 10
In the 2 position, between terminals:
No.3 and No.4

5. If there is no continuity between any terminals, adjust the transmission range switch installation. If the transmission range switch installation is OK, replace the switch.

6. If the transmission range switch continuity check was OK, replace the faulty transmission range switch harness.

__________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Thank you. Right now I am in school, but last night when I got home after work I decided to start going through some wiring and I started messing with my relays by my ECM and it was very strange, I would try t turn the engine over and it would turn over but then shut off immediately and my relay was clicking twice. Well as I started to tweak with the relays (blue one 4 prong) the car started and ran. It wasn't running great but it was running.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome back:

Did the DLC work then too?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
EBARGER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
No, the data link connector is still giving me a link error as well as tachometer and temperature gauge still wont work.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:11 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,758 POSTS
Welcome back:

Were you able to confirm both power and ground at the DLC?
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