Engine low power?

Tiny
VMONTOYA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 85,000 MILES
My car will not rev past 3500 rpm. Im not sure wat it can be ive been told that it might be an o2 sensor, my powertrain control module but I have not figured it out. Please help.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi Vmontoya,

Is the CEL showing?

Should not be power train as yours is a manual not auto trans.

I suspect a clogged exhaust, faulty O2 sensor or TPS.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:07 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEECEE0283
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2004 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200 MILES
I have poor accelration after tiing belt was relplaced, I hit the gas. Pede; the rpm is 2000 then te speed just hot up from 0, what seems to be the problem?Help"
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
The cam may be out of time from crank due to improper install of belt or tensioner wasn't changed. Also check fuel pressure and scan for codes. Also can be cam and crank synchronization.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEECEE0283
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok thanks for the reply, I also have problem, with fluctuating temp gauge, change the thermostat clean the radiator fan is working well, but still temp is fluctuating after long hours of driving, temp starts to fluctuate when on idle or on a stop light then when it accelerates it goes down and sometines go on its normal level below half, then goes vise versa, what seems to be the problem?I already put antifreeze but still it goes the same thing.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Check radiator when it does this if you feel cold spots rad is no good otherwise get checked for a head gasket leak
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEECEE0283
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok il try to ask the mechanic about it regarding the radiator issue, if the head gasket is change it will never fkuctuates?Im afraid maybe it will be the same after I changed the gasket, actualy the history goes like this I purchase the car a month ago while I was driving after a week I notice the temp is fluctuating like I mentioned before, so I went to a machanic and they that they need to clean the rad so they cleaned and it overhaul it, so they did it and it was the same, so I went to another mechanic and he said need to open the head, head was open sent so machine shop for repahsing, openned it up but he put the same gasket, after that place a new thermostat, check the water pump, it was fine, fan is working place new plugs, put some antifreeze, and everything is the same as before, no check engine light on it, I went back to mechanic and he told me need to replace New head gasket, do you think that is the culprit?Pls help I want to be sure that everything is done properly cause some things that need to replace a little bit expensive. Thank you
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
If you take a cylinder head off YOU NEVER use the same gasket as it's destroyed when the head is removed. Get a new head gasket.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HBSB2CARPROS
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
  • 2003 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
I have the car listed above EX model, four door sedan.

The check engine light is on, the immobilizer light is flashing, there is no communication with the scan tool. The tachometer is inoperative, the temperature gauge is inoperative. The car runs sluggishly, no acceleration, engine cuts out (bogs down) at higher rpm's greater than 3,400 (when tachomdeter was working).

DLC test:
With the key on or off and ECM's p31 unplugged from the ECM, and measuring voltage from dlc pin 5 (logic ground for ECM) to chassis ground, I get a nine volt reading. With ECM's p31 plugged into the ECM, (key on or off) and measuring voltage from dlc pin 5 to ground, the reading is zero volts. Why does this happen? Is this normal? How does the logic ground function in relationship to the ECM?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
It sounds like you have a bad ground I would check them all by using this guide and the engine PCM wiring diagrams below.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DEECEE0283
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok will do that thank you
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HBSB2CARPROS
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I am stuck having to fix this problem myself because neither the Honda dealership and two other shops were unable to fix this. Definitely appears to be some kind of wire (electrical) problem.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Troubleshooting:
Turn the ignition switch ON (II) with a programmed key.
Check to see if the immobilizer indicator comes on.
Does the indicator come on?
YES - Go to step 3.
NO - Go to step 12.
Check the immobilizer indicator operation.
Does the indicator come on for 2 seconds, then go off?
YES - Go to step 4.
NO - Go to step 6.
Try to crank the engine.
Does the starter motor operate?
YES - Go to step 5.
NO - Check the starter motor.
Try to start the engine.
Does the engine start?
YES - If available, check the Status Log in the Immobilizer info with the HDS (see STATUS LOG ). If the Status Log is not available, the Immobilizer system is OK at this time.

Check the diagram below.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HBSB2CARPROS
  • MEMBER
  • 19 POSTS
I did find the TPS voltage at the ECM would not measure any higher than 1.7 volts. I get five volts at the TPS plug, and was able to measure 6k ohms of resistance on the TPS. I was also able to vary the throttle valve and notice the resistance vary on the TPS. I realize the TPS can still be non-linear and still be causing problems. I am having with this car.

Thanks for the accurate wire diagram, I could easily follow out the wires, their color etc. Found the bad ground and got is fixed the car runs great! I love this site.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,548 POSTS
Glad you could get it fixed, that kind of problem can be tough. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JM93635
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  • 1 POST
To put it simple the ECM (or engine control module) is in limp mode. Get a new or used ECM and ignition with key coded and save time and trouble. Dealers will charge a substantial amount for this work and programming so check with some auto parts stores or eBay. Make sure the ECM and key ring ignition are paired. If you go through auto parts store write down VIN number, mileage and part number on the ECM. Hope this helps.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MATTW_1999
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Was this issue ever resolved? My car is having the exact same issue. I t is a 2002 Honda Civic two fdoor vetch. It starts runs sluggish especially upon acceleration. The green immobilizer light flashes all the time and the rpm, and temperature gauge's do not work. What do I do?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
Hello,

lets start by reading the codes to see what comes up.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRIS PATRICK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I am having the same problem with my 2005 Honda Civic 1.7 To a T! Car will not scan and those gauges do not work and flashing key light. Did anyone figure this out? Help!
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
Yes, I would try to do hard reboot of the system. Remove the negative battery cable and then hold it to he positive terminal for one minute this will discharge the capacitors and reboot the system. Here is a guide:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please let us know what happens.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:10 AM (Merged)

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