Car loses power while driving

Tiny
JGONZALEZ160
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 120,000 miles.

While driving, the car start slowing down. I push the gas pedal more but did not speed back up. The car did not start shaking or making a noise. The check engine light came on. I stopped, and shut down the car and when tried to start it back on did not want to turn on, but after two to three tries it did. Air filter is in good condition, and spark plugs about two months old.
Saturday, June 5th, 2010 AT 3:01 PM

40 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Hi jgonzalez160, welcome to 2carpros

Scan the computer scanned for code/s-you have a problem within the engine management system that caused the CEL to turn on. This is your starting point of diagnosis, finding out what is going on.

This guide will help us find it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, June 18th, 2019 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
JGONZALEZ160
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I scanned my vehicle and gave me code 1361 (TDC Sensor Intermittent Interruption), and code 1457 EVAP Control System Leakage.
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Tuesday, June 18th, 2019 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Inspect and test the TDC sensor on front engine see location number nine as for the P1457 check the gas cap and EVAP canister vent-shut valve or get it smoke tested to find it
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+7
Tuesday, June 18th, 2019 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
SEGMA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.7L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 200,000 MILES
I've been working on the car listed above EX model. The car drives and runs but the rpm doesn't go up at all and the car doesn't accelerate like it's suppose to. I've changed three of the oxygen sensor at the front of the car, the TPS, and the mass air flow sensor. I was hoping someone would have an idea of what's wrong.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TANKB
  • MECHANIC
  • 19 POSTS
Hello SEGMA.

Pull your cluster panel check the cable that runs from the transmission to the cluster.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SEGMA
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Everything on the cluster looks good and it was plugged in properly.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

If I could step in here real quick. There is a Self Diagnostic Test you can do to test the functioning of the gauge assembly. I have included it in the diagrams down below. Please go through it and get back to us with what you find out. If the gauge assembly needs to be replaced we can give you instructions on how to do that as well.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SAIKRISHNA8786
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 132,000 MILES
I was driving my honda civic fine until yesterday, it suddenly started to slow down.Here is what i observed
1.The car did not stop until i stopped it manually.
2. I Started my car, and it started perfectly alright.
3.Tried to Accelerate the car, But the RPM only stops at 3000Rpm and doesent go beyond that.
4.I tried to move the car on Drve mode, the car moves very slowly and does not have power to go up the street.
5.After driving to home probaly like 2 miles, in th same spped i.e 20-25mph.When i apply brakes on traffic lights when in Drive mode the engine stops.
6.i opened my Hood and observed that the Chamber where the spark plug is located id RED HOT.
7.I stopped the engine and checked for Oil levels and transmission fliud's everything fine.
8.In the morning turned back the car ON, perfectly turned on,and put the car on Drive and the car was runnig fine.
9.Im still wondering what could have happened to the car???
10.Could that be a problem of coolant??
11:Transmission problem??


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/468275_IMG_1785_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
The engine is in limp mode and there is either a fuel or ignition cut. Your exhaust manifold is red hot because you are spitting out a lot of raw fuel into the exhaust.

Scan the PCM, that is the first step to diagnosis. There could be a number of different problems.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MARIA CARMEN GONZALEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 17,450 MILES
Car loses power after fifteen to twenty minute drive on the freeway, specially in hot weather. Temperature meter does not go over half, stays the same as when car turns on.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,462 POSTS
When you say it loses power, does it shut off or just get sluggish? When this happens does anything else shut off like the radio, heater, lights?
If it just shuts off is it instant like you turned off the key or does it sputter and skip like it is running out of gas?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENE01
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 10,500 MILES
After 20 minutes of driving car hesitates and loses power and the engine light comes on. After 20 minutes of cooling she runs again. Car is not over heating, it runs sluggish and eventually cuts off if is running beyond the 20 mins.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,302 POSTS
You most likely have a sensor out of range.

What is the DTC (diagnostic trouble code)? That should lead you in the right direction.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KURTSTEELE65
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 113,000 MILES
My civic will randomly lose power while driving down the road. When this happens, you can step on the gas and it spits and sputters and has no power. I t will hardly do 20mph. After parking for a while it starts back up fine and will run fine foe a while until it happens again. I had the auto parts store hook up their computer and they said it showed codes for misfiring and the catalytic converter was not working at optimal level.
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+3
Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi kurtsteele65,

Misfiring would cause loss of power and it could be due to the spark plugs or related parts. Misfires can also damage the catalytic converter, which from what you are describing may be partially plugged. Try loosening the exhaust flange before the cat and driving it, if the cat is the problem it will run ok, but yes it will be loud

Read the guide below, it will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LITE12
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 HONDA CIVIC
My check engine light is on, went to auto zone got it tested and they said it was some kind of oxygen sensor, we'll I over looked it and went and got a oil change now my car won't go 20 mph. Please help
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,873 POSTS
The oxygen sensors won't cause that. They simply help the Engine Computer fine tune fuel metering for lowest emissions, and the "downstream" ones monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converter(s). Basically there's three things to look at. There could be a lack of engine power from misfiring cylinders. You'd feel and hear that. Power could be down due to a jumped timing belt, but usually the engine will be hard to start too.

The exhaust system could be restricted, typically due to a plugged catalytic converter. Listen to the sound of the exhaust at the tail pipe. If you hear a steady hiss instead of the normal "putt-putt" sound, suspect a plugged catalytic converter. There should also be a good hard air flow from the tail pipe.

A disc brake could be dragging, but there will almost always be other symptoms or observations. Feel next to the two front wheels after driving a few miles. If one is real hot, have the brake system inspected.

Also be aware that diagnostic fault codes never say to replace parts or that they're bad. They only indicate the circuit or system that needs further diagnosis. When a sensor is referenced in the fault code, it is actually the cause of that code about half of the time. Your mechanic must check the wiring and do some electrical tests to rule everything out other than the sensor.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KWONG
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
  • HONDA CIVIC
I have a Honda Civic EX 2001 and when I'm on a stop sign, it jerks a bit. When I try to accelerate the car is not moving again and later while I keep gasing it's okay again. I got IAC changed and some valves what should be replaced and what is causing this problem?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MIKEYBDMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 623 POSTS
So there are no engine codes? Here again it can be so many things. Fuel, spark, sensors. Why did they change your IAC? Same reason?
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:14 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KWONG
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
I went to my local mechanic for this and I will never go to him again because the probelm still exist. Basically what he did was he did a tune up spark plugs, gasket, air filter pcv. He changed valve set, throttle body and IAC valve and Tp sensor and I still have the same problem. People told me it might be the distributor cap could it be? So just say I'm on a stop sign, my car kind of shakes a bit and then I can't accelerate and I wait a bit and keep pressin on the gas I can accelerate. Engine light did not come on nothing came on at all.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2020 AT 11:14 AM (Merged)

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