Engine wont run?

Do below to determine if its a fuel or spark issue

Get a starting fluid/ether/better off gas in a spray bottle and spray into the carb or the throttle body on an EFI. Did it start and die? If not disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM, Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing belt/chain

Need system voltage to coil something wrong with that circuit. Try running a jumper wire to coil see if it lights.

The clue is it starts when you give it a priming squirt of gas. The Engine Computer is supposed to do that based on temperature. You might try a coolant temperature sensor. If you have access to a scanner that can display live sensor data it will show whether the sensor is reporting the correct temperature. Some cars also have an ambient air temperature sensor in the front left corner of the throttle body assembly.

It's probably more common to have fuel pressure bleeding down when the car sits overnight. There are two clues. First, it will start easily shortly after stopping the engine. More importantly, since you know about that short burst from the fuel pump when you turn on the ignition switch, that might not be enough time to get fuel pressure back up high enough for starting. Turn the ignition switch on to get the two-second burst, then turn the switch back off. Wait a few seconds then do that a second time and maybe even a third time, then crank the engine. If it always starts that way suspect a leaky injector but it could also be the check valve in the fuel pump or a leaking pressure regulator.

Unlike GM pumps that often fail while driving, Chrysler pumps almost always keep going once they've started up. When they fail they do not start up. If you hear it run for that first two seconds, the engine should start and run. I suspect when it isn't starting up on its own, it does start from the engine vibration when you squirt gas in. An intermittently non-starting pump would be much more common than a lack of a priming pulse from the injector due to a false reading from a temperature sensor.

When you do catch it not starting and you want to jump the fuel pump relay, use the diagram below and jump terminals 30 and 87. If you see a small spark when you make the connection you'll know the wiring is intact. If there is no spark, suspect worn brushes in the pump motor.

The injector problem I was referring to was not a defective injector. Here again, GM has a huge problem with their injectors. Chrysler hardly ever has a bad one. What can happen to them is the pintle valve leaks. That is not a problem while the engine is running, but when you stop the engine that fuel pressure in the supply line should stay there for weeks without bleeding down. A leaky injector will bleed the pressure down in a few minutes to a few hours. THAT's what can make it hard to start the engine. Since battery voltage is drawn down by the starter, the pump runs slower than normal during engine cranking. As fast as it builds up a little pressure the firing injector bleeds it off right away. Fuel is going into the engine but not enough for it to burn successfully so the engine doesn't start. That's where cycling the ignition switch two or three times before cranking the engine can help.

I couldn't agree more with you about all of the unnecessary, complicated, unreliable computers on newer cars. My daily driver is an old rusty trusty '88 Grand Caravan. You and I only have a very reliable Engine Computer. I've been complaining about the insane computers on newer cars for years.

Caradiodoc

How long since a tune-up? Any applicable mil codes? You can check those yourself. Have a helper crank it, while you visually check for spark at the spark plugs. Let us know what you find.

I'll be keeping my fingers and toes crossed that the problem is solved. I'm overdue for some good news!

To check for spark, pull spark plug wire loose from plug, use known good spark plug or spark tester in the plug boot. Ground/touch metal part of plug to metal part of engine. Engine cranking, watch for spark, you can see it. Check more than one plug.

To check for mil codes, you cycle the key, on--off, on--off, on, then the mil lamp starts flashing, you count the flashes to get the codes. Your looking for two digit codes, When you cycle the key, you turn key till dash lites come on, no further, no crank.

Stalling problems -Go to this walk thru link :https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please be more specific. Does it run okay but stalls at stop signs because the idle speed is too low? Does the engine quit running while you're driving? Was the battery recently disconnected or run dead? Do you get a nice "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine? Will it stay running if you hold the gas pedal down 1/8"?