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Oil Pan and Pump removal and installation

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The change in RPM is normal. I didn't realize that is how it was happening. The readings you provide are good.

I'm back to the 114 code. There has to be an issue with a temperature reading/sensor. Do me a favor. Take a look at the attached pic. Let me know if you are comfortable performing it. Also, if you do, let me know the results so I know which flow chart to go to next.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic.
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Friday, February 4th, 2022 AT 6:49 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe,

If I understand correctly, you want me to recheck the values for the voltage and resistance of the ACT. Reading possible causes from your attachment, the rad hose gets hot and pressurized, the truck doesn't stall or present a no start condition, but the air temp here is well below 50 degrees.
Should I disconnect the battery to clear the memory and rerun the KOEO test?
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Saturday, February 5th, 2022 AT 7:52 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If possible, yes, perform the diagnostics listed. If you disconnect the battery, you will lose any stored information, so I would rather not do that at this point. Let's see what the results are. Something is going on with the ACT. Also, have you checked or cleaned the MAF sensor? It is before the intake.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, February 5th, 2022 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe,

I couldn't get good contact with the sensor to check its resistance, so I pulled it out. It still measured 95K Ohms, but it was covered in oil and sludge, so I'm going to replace it.
Also, I don't have a MAF sensor, it's a MAP so there is nothing to clean.
I get back to you as soon as I can.
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Sunday, February 6th, 2022 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'll watch for your reply.

Joe
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Sunday, February 6th, 2022 AT 8:15 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Hi Joe,

Well, I received the new ACT and first checked it against the old one. The resistances were virtually the same at 36 and 66 degrees (79K and 31K respectfully). I installed the new one, and ran the engine until reaching the operating temperature. And reran the KOEO test. Only code 111 (System Pass). (I should note that when the engine was cold, I did still get the code 114 which seems to make some sense).
In Drive, the rough idle was about the same. I drove the truck for about 15 miles to check it at various conditions. It seems to drive O, but idle still rough but gets worse when I begin to accelerate from a stop then smooths out. It does this every time I begin moving from a stop.
Tony
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Wednesday, February 9th, 2022 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe, I should also mention I ran the KOER test also and got the same codes as before, 538, 536, 632.
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Wednesday, February 9th, 2022 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I'm struggling to understand how those codes are related to the issue. Do me a favor. Take a look at the three pics below. I listed the diagnostics for the 536, 538, and info about the 632. See if there is anything that you can tie with it. It just doesn't seem to follow a normal sequence of events.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
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Wednesday, February 9th, 2022 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe,

I don't know if my reply went through so I'm giving you the short version. I reran the KOER tests. All codes cleared. I now have 111 indicated.
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Thursday, February 10th, 2022 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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The P0111 indicates everything is okay. If that is the only code indicated, it must be related to something different than what the codes originally indicated.

I may have asked you before, so I'm sorry if I did, but is your code reader able to provide live data?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, February 10th, 2022 AT 4:33 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe, I only have an OBD1 code reader. I don't have access to anything else. I thought only vehicles with OBD2 systems had more sophisticated scanning tools.

One question though. Other than removing the upper intake and its associated vacuum lines, the only other item I 'touched' was the EGR valve when I unbolted it from the intake. I know I'm grasping at straws, but since the truck ran fine before all this, could this be causing a problem without tripping a code? My guess is the computer only checks for signal to and from and not the physical operation of the diaphragm and position sensor. But what do I know?

Again, thanks for all your help with this.
Tony
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Friday, February 11th, 2022 AT 6:15 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
  • MEMBER
  • 58 POSTS
Joe,
Just for fun, I checked the EGR. Reference voltage at the EVP is 4.9V, Resistance across the sensor was 3.8K ohms (engine cold) (my manual says it should be approx. 5K).
I attached a vacuum pump to the EGR and could verify that the valve opened and appeared to hold. Resistance was 720 ohms. (My manual says it should be approximately 100). I don't know if this helps.

Tony
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Friday, February 11th, 2022 AT 11:28 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

The resistance is too high. Consider replacing it to see if that resolves the issues.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, February 11th, 2022 AT 1:56 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
  • MEMBER
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Joe,

I just received the new EVP sensor, and it reads almost the same as the existing one. I get 4.75K ohms to 470 ohms. Also, I checked vacuum at the EVR solenoid. I get 10" vacuum on the supply line from the intake. (I don't know why it is lower than manifold vacuum of 16.7" unless it's because of the other components tapped off the same vacuum source), and I checked vacuum at the EGR, engine idle, of about 1/2". I revved the engine some and there was no change in the reading.
Now, if I can see the EGR pintle, what looks like it's fully seated, at idle, why would I have poor idle and poor initial acceleration and power, since no exhaust gas is being introduced into the intake? I'm really getting confused and frustrated.
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Sunday, February 13th, 2022 AT 10:43 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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You should have an intake vacuum. If it is lower, are you certain that there isn't a leak associated with that vacuum supply?

Joe
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Sunday, February 13th, 2022 AT 2:45 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe, I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to either. I have intake vacuum, vacuum at the EVR solenoid measured at its supply tubing and a minor needle movement on the vacuum line at the EGR, which I've read is correct.
Also, if the EGR pintle is closed, shouldn't that eliminate the valve as a source of poor idle, poor initial acceleration, and performance. And remember, I have no codes.
Thanks,
Tony
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2022 AT 1:34 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

It sounds like there is a leak. I'm basing that on the vacuum readings you provided above. When you indicate the lower vacuum between the EGR vacuum and the source, are you checking it before the EGR vacuum regulator? See pic below.

Here is what I based that question on: "I checked vacuum at the EVR solenoid. I get 10" vacuum on the supply line from the intake. (I don't know why it is lower than manifold vacuum of 16.7" unless it's because of the other components tapped off the same vacuum source), and I checked vacuum at the EGR, engine idle, of about 1/2". I revved the engine some and there was no change in the reading."

If the supply hose only produces 10 inches of vacuum and the engine is producing 16.7", either the supply hose is plugged or it's leaking.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.
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Tuesday, February 15th, 2022 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
  • MEMBER
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Hey Joe,

I went over all the vacuum tubes and made some repairs. Engine still exhibits same problem; slight rough idle and you can feel it as you raise rpms. I took it out for a drive of about 5miles, pushing it at times. It felt like I had no immediate throttle response. (It's been so long since I actually drove it on a regular basis that I can't remember what it ran like before all this).
I re-ran KOEO test, 111. I re-ran KOER test and reader first showed 111, then separator code 10, then I got a 628 and 634 code. I know these are transmission related. I've never been able to get the computer to run a cylinder balance test either.
I feel like I'm chasing a ghost and now wondering if my trans. Is going too. I'm starting to have thoughts of setting it on fire.
Tony
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Thursday, February 24th, 2022 AT 7:44 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
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Joe,

I forgot to mention that the engine shutters when starting to move from a stop and then goes away.
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Thursday, February 24th, 2022 AT 7:53 AM
Tiny
ANTHONY ALOI
  • MEMBER
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Joe,

I wish I could delete what I said above. I must be getting too old. The engine roughness exists at all times, whether at idle or at speed. I do have throttle response, but what I may be experiencing is lock-up failure in the torque converter, hence the new code I'm getting. I have for years had a converter shutter which would stop if I backed off the throttle. I added Dr. Transmission a few years ago which helped.
Sorry for any confusion.
Tony
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Thursday, February 24th, 2022 AT 11:02 AM

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