Oil Pan and Pump removal and installation

Hi,

Did you loosen the trans mounting bolts? Is a cooler line hitting?

Do me a favor. Take a look through the pic below. Those are the directions from my manual. See if there is anything that was missed.

Let me know.

Joe

Thanks Joe. I did loosen the transmission mounting bolts. There are a few extra items on your list (trans cooler lines and upper intake manifold), but they don't seem to be the problem. What I could see is the bracket that holds a bunch of items that are part of the air injector emission system. It was bound under the wiper motor. I finally got that disconnected along with some of the hosing along the firewall. The intake plenum doesn't seem to be hitting the firewall, yet, but there is a protruding flange/boss which is part of the trans converter housing which is hitting the underside of the firewall on the driver side. I looked at removing the intake plenum, but I can't even find most of the mounting bolts. And there seems to be way more things to disconnect than the book states to get it out. By the way, another thing no one seems to mention the emission items and bracket I mentioned above and that the power steering pump return line, which I found out the hard and messy way had to be disconnected. I'll look again at the plenum. The engine is now shifted left and only has one lifting bracket (driver side). I'm thinking about putting a fabric sling under the whole thing and try and shift it over. Also, I don't know if you remember or received the replies, I tried to send you under the heading "Loss of Power", but upon removing the oil pump I saw that the pick-up screen was mostly clogged. I'm guessing that was the oil pressure problem.

Hi,
That would certainly cause low pressure. As far as the issues with lifting the engine, if possible, take a few pics of what is hitting. It seems they make nothing simple anymore.

Take a couple of pics so I can see exactly what is happening. Hopefully, I will have some ideas for you.

Take care,

Joe

Hey Joe,

I am attaching some photos of the air piping and emission devices/bracket that was hitting the wiper motor. Also, there are pics of the tab on the trans. that's hitting the firewall. I also attached a photo I got off the web which shows this tab on a E40D transmission. It doesn't seem to be for anything unless it's for another vehicle. There is another one on the opposite side at the rear. Maybe they are for mounting the case to a bench for rebuilding purposes?
I am waiting on a 1/4" drive T40 socket which folks on the web say is needed to remove the inside middle bolt on the intake plenum. I don't know how I'm going to get to the rear ones. Is it really necessary to take this off?
Thanks for your help.
Tony

https://photos.app.goo.gl/aAfWWyasyBAuJ9N2A

Tony, I believe those are for production. They are certainly in the way. At this point, if you are not going to be able to clear those tabs, I would unbolt the transmission and separate it from the engine block.

As far as the intake. The manual indicates it needs to be removed. When I deal with something like this, I try to see if there is enough clearance to make it work without removal. If there isn't, then I remove it.

Let me know.

Joe

Thanks Joe,
All those emission pipes along the back are seemingly my problem. I got a few off and got the engine higher but it's still not enough. But it's so close. It looks like the plenum will have to come off in order to remove all that emission piping. I'll start on that and see what happens.
As for the tab on the transmission, I might just cut it off if it serves no purpose anymore.

I still have to deal with broken exhaust studs and the studs I had to cut off on the cat. in order to remove the exhaust pipe. Should they be drilled out or can I heat them and use a punch? Somewhere I heard or read they are pressed in.

Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. If you look at the pic below, is that where you had to cut the bolt? If so, to the best of my knowledge, that is threaded. Do you have enough left to get an extractor on?

Joe

Hi Joe,

That's one of them. I know that's threaded. The others are the four that connect the inlet flange of the cat. to the down pipe.

Hi,

That looks like an aftermarket part. If the highlighted part below is where you are referring to, is it possible just to drill them out and use a nut and bolt to attach the converter?

Let me know.

Hey Joe,

It's been a while. I have made progress though. I did have to remove the intake plenum to get the engine high enough to get the pan over the crossmember. I got the new pump installed but had difficulty with the pan and gasket. The gasket was a one-piece rubber and did come with easy ups for the four corners. The problem was the long sides of the gasket would keep sliding into the pan. I had to make over a dozen alignment pins out of all-thread to keep it in line which was working great until I couldn't fit the pan straight up between the engine mounts. I had to use a jack to push the pan past the lower part of the mounts. All said, it probably took me an entire day to get this part done. This doesn't even count the broken pan bolt that was a nightmare to remove. I tried welding a nut to it, but it broke further down. Then I drilled it out and went on to re-tap the hole when the tap broke inside. Luckily, I had a broken tap remover which actually worked. I finally got this done.

Then I moved on to the 4 cat flange studs that I had to cut off earlier. They must be hardened steel, because it took me a couple of days and 3 drill indexes to get through them. Laying on my back on the floor didn't help either since I couldn't get good leverage on the drill. I was trying to remove the cat to use a drill press, but I couldn't get it separated.

So now I can finally move topside, but I have a situation which I didn't bring up earlier. When I removed the intake plenum, the gasket was covered in oil. And the runners were coated too. The only way I can see this occurring is via the PCV. I removed it from the valve cover, and it was wet with oil as was the connecting hoses, but it wasn't frozen or stuck. But if it wasn't sealing under vacuum, would that be the problem?

Thanks again for your help.
Tony

Tony,

You have had your hands full with this one. It's been a tough one. As far as the PCV, oftentimes that is caused by excessive crankcase pressure resulting from a cylinder or piston ring wear. That can allow compressed air to bypass the rings and build up in the crankcase pushing oil into the PCV. At this point, get it back together, and let's see how it runs. Replace or clean the PCV and hose and then we'll watch to see if it continues. If it does, we will need to check engine compression to see if one or more of the cylinders are a bit low.

Please don't be discouraged by this. Although it isn't preferred, most times, the engine will go a lot longer because it really becomes an issue.

Take care and thanks for the update. Let me know how things turn out for you.

Joe

Hey Joe,

It's been a while. With the cold weather, injuries, getting those exhaust manifold studs out, and just needing some time off, I finally got everything back together. Of course, I have one nut and a bolt left over. I had them in a bag labelled A.I.R. system, but I cannot figure out where anything is missing. Anyway, the truck starts, oil pressure good, no obvious leaks, I now have a somewhat new problem. The truck ran fine before all this, now it idles rough. I had trouble retrieving the EEC-IV codes before using a test light, so I got a reader. During the KOEO test, I got Code's 111 and 114(o). I didn't do the timing test, although the engine rpms did rise for a period and then return to idle, and the KOER test indicated Codes 536, 538 and 632. I don't hear any whistling indicating a vacuum leak, but I'll put a gage on later.
Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Tony

Tony,

I ran through the codes (see below).

111 Systems good
114 ACT / Air Charge Temp sensor
536 Brake issue
538 Dynamic response test
632 OD cancel switch

Of the codes provided, the only one I feel could be related to the running issue is the ACT code, 114. The sensor plays a role in the air/fuel mixture so that certainly can be causing this type of issue.

I attached a pic of its location below. Inspect it to make sure the wiring wasn't damaged, it's fully connected, and a good connection is being made.

Let me know what you find.

Joe

See pic below.

Hey Joe,

I checked the sensor, and it looks 'dirty', as if it was never touched even after I removed and reinstalled the upper intake. Since I don't know if this code existed before the work, I guess it's difficult to say if this was a problem before. Seems odd the truck ran fine before and was just sitting for an extended period.

I failed to mention that there never was a check engine light on the dash either before the work or now. Does the KOEO test (which passed) just check switches and relays, or does it check these sensors also?

Thanks again for your help.
Tony

Hi,

The part may have never had a chance to set the code or light. Since it sat for a long time, it is possible that it deteriorated enough to no not work.

I attached a chart below showing the voltages/resistance that you should find based on temperatures. The sensor receives a 5v reference for power. On the opposite end, which is changed based on temperature.

Is this something you are comfortable checking? Also, at least this will help us eliminate it as a problem if it checks good.

As far as what you mentioned above, it isn't uncommon for the CEL not to turn on with the OBD1 systems. Until companies moved to the OBD2, things were still somewhat primitive.

Take a look below and let me know your thoughts. Hang in there. We'll get it figured out one way or another.

Joe

See pic below.

Joe,

I had to wait a couple of days until the garage got above 20'. This was a bear to get to.

Ambient air temp is 37' F, Voltage at connector is 4.7 VDC and resistance of sensor is 97K Ohms.

Tony

Hi,

The resistance seems a little high. If you press slightly on the throttle, does the engine then run smoothly?
Joe

Hey Joe,

In Park, it's not too bad, engine swings from about 800+ to 1,000 RPMs. In Drive, it's about 700 +/-. These are estimates off the dash tachometer. In drive it's most notable and increasing engine speed seems to improve it somewhat.

I also rechecked the Air Charge Temp sensor at operating temp. It was reading 7.8K Ohms.

I don't know if this matters, but when I had the upper intake off, I noticed the coolant hose that connects to the throttle body was clogged. I cleaned this out and now the hose to the TB gets hot. It didn't before.

Thanks,
Tony

Is the throttle going up and down? (800 RPMs - 1,000 RPMs)

As far as the hose, chances are it's hot simply because coolant is now flowing through it.

Just for curiosity, have you checked for vacuum leaks?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

What I was trying to say about the line to the TB, was that now it is receiving hot coolant, so the incoming air is being warmed when it wasn't before.
The idle speed wasn't changing rapidly. It was more like, if it were a carb, it was a high idle than slowing as it was warming up.
It eventually settled at 800~900 RPM. I engaged the A/C and it began to lower and reestablished at 800~900 range. This was in Park. When I put it in Drive it dropped to 700, steady, but rough. I raised it to 900, still rough, at 1400, still rough.

Checked vacuum at intake and it was steady at 16.8".

I also checked the voltage at the Idle Air Control valve. It measured 12.36 V. The resistance across the valve was 9.5 Ohms.

I hope this makes what's going on clearer.

Thanks again for all the time you're spending on this.
Tony

Hi,

The change in RPM is normal. I didn't realize that is how it was happening. The readings you provide are good.

I'm back to the 114 code. There has to be an issue with a temperature reading/sensor. Do me a favor. Take a look at the attached pic. Let me know if you are comfortable performing it. Also, if you do, let me know the results so I know which flow chart to go to next.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic.

Joe,

If I understand correctly, you want me to recheck the values for the voltage and resistance of the ACT. Reading possible causes from your attachment, the rad hose gets hot and pressurized, the truck doesn't stall or present a no start condition, but the air temp here is well below 50 degrees.
Should I disconnect the battery to clear the memory and rerun the KOEO test?

Hi,

If possible, yes, perform the diagnostics listed. If you disconnect the battery, you will lose any stored information, so I would rather not do that at this point. Let's see what the results are. Something is going on with the ACT. Also, have you checked or cleaned the MAF sensor? It is before the intake.

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

I couldn't get good contact with the sensor to check its resistance, so I pulled it out. It still measured 95K Ohms, but it was covered in oil and sludge, so I'm going to replace it.
Also, I don't have a MAF sensor, it's a MAP so there is nothing to clean.
I get back to you as soon as I can.

Hi,

Thanks for the update. I'll watch for your reply.

Joe

Hi Joe,

Well, I received the new ACT and first checked it against the old one. The resistances were virtually the same at 36 and 66 degrees (79K and 31K respectfully). I installed the new one, and ran the engine until reaching the operating temperature. and reran the KOEO test. Only code 111 (System Pass). (I should note that when the engine was cold, I did still get the code 114 which seems to make some sense).
In Drive, the rough idle was about the same. I drove the truck for about 15 miles to check it at various conditions. It seems to drive O, but idle still rough but gets worse when I begin to accelerate from a stop then smooths out. It does this every time I begin moving from a stop.
Tony

Joe, I should also mention I ran the KOER test also and got the same codes as before, 538, 536, 632.

Hi,

I'm struggling to understand how those codes are related to the issue. Do me a favor. Take a look at the three pics below. I listed the diagnostics for the 536, 538, and info about the 632. See if there is anything that you can tie with it. It just doesn't seem to follow a normal sequence of events.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.

Joe,

I don't know if my reply went through so I'm giving you the short version. I reran the KOER tests. All codes cleared. I now have 111 indicated.

The P0111 indicates everything is okay. If that is the only code indicated, it must be related to something different than what the codes originally indicated.

I may have asked you before, so I'm sorry if I did, but is your code reader able to provide live data?

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe

Joe, I only have an OBD1 code reader. I don't have access to anything else. I thought only vehicles with OBD2 systems had more sophisticated scanning tools.

One question though. Other than removing the upper intake and its associated vacuum lines, the only other item I 'touched' was the EGR valve when I unbolted it from the intake. I know I'm grasping at straws, but since the truck ran fine before all this, could this be causing a problem without tripping a code? My guess is the computer only checks for signal to and from and not the physical operation of the diaphragm and position sensor. But what do I know?

Again, thanks for all your help with this.
Tony

Joe,
Just for fun, I checked the EGR. Reference voltage at the EVP is 4.9V, Resistance across the sensor was 3.8K ohms (engine cold) (my manual says it should be approx. 5K).
I attached a vacuum pump to the EGR and could verify that the valve opened and appeared to hold. Resistance was 720 ohms. (My manual says it should be approximately 100). I don't know if this helps.

Tony

Hi,

The resistance is too high. Consider replacing it to see if that resolves the issues.

Let me know.

Joe

Joe,

I just received the new EVP sensor, and it reads almost the same as the existing one. I get 4.75K ohms to 470 ohms. Also, I checked vacuum at the EVR solenoid. I get 10" vacuum on the supply line from the intake. (I don't know why it is lower than manifold vacuum of 16.7" unless it's because of the other components tapped off the same vacuum source), and I checked vacuum at the EGR, engine idle, of about 1/2". I revved the engine some and there was no change in the reading.
Now, if I can see the EGR pintle, what looks like it's fully seated, at idle, why would I have poor idle and poor initial acceleration and power, since no exhaust gas is being introduced into the intake? I'm really getting confused and frustrated.

You should have an intake vacuum. If it is lower, are you certain that there isn't a leak associated with that vacuum supply?

Joe

Joe, I'm not sure I understand what you are referring to either. I have intake vacuum, vacuum at the EVR solenoid measured at its supply tubing and a minor needle movement on the vacuum line at the EGR, which I've read is correct.
Also, if the EGR pintle is closed, shouldn't that eliminate the valve as a source of poor idle, poor initial acceleration, and performance. And remember, I have no codes.
Thanks,
Tony

Hi,

It sounds like there is a leak. I'm basing that on the vacuum readings you provided above. When you indicate the lower vacuum between the EGR vacuum and the source, are you checking it before the EGR vacuum regulator? See pic below.

Here is what I based that question on: "I checked vacuum at the EVR solenoid. I get 10" vacuum on the supply line from the intake. (I don't know why it is lower than manifold vacuum of 16.7" unless it's because of the other components tapped off the same vacuum source), and I checked vacuum at the EGR, engine idle, of about 1/2". I revved the engine some and there was no change in the reading."

If the supply hose only produces 10 inches of vacuum and the engine is producing 16.7", either the supply hose is plugged or it's leaking.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

Hey Joe,

I went over all the vacuum tubes and made some repairs. Engine still exhibits same problem; slight rough idle and you can feel it as you raise rpms. I took it out for a drive of about 5miles, pushing it at times. It felt like I had no immediate throttle response. (It's been so long since I actually drove it on a regular basis that I can't remember what it ran like before all this).
I re-ran KOEO test, 111. I re-ran KOER test and reader first showed 111, then separator code 10, then I got a 628 and 634 code. I know these are transmission related. I've never been able to get the computer to run a cylinder balance test either.
I feel like I'm chasing a ghost and now wondering if my trans. is going too. I'm starting to have thoughts of setting it on fire.
Tony

Joe,

I forgot to mention that the engine shutters when starting to move from a stop and then goes away.

Joe,

I wish I could delete what I said above. I must be getting too old. The engine roughness exists at all times, whether at idle or at speed. I do have throttle response, but what I may be experiencing is lock-up failure in the torque converter, hence the new code I'm getting. I have for years had a converter shutter which would stop if I backed off the throttle. I added Dr. Transmission a few years ago which helped.
Sorry for any confusion.
Tony