Engine oil leaking?

Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
Where is the oil coming from? Is it coming in the location of the belts or the side with the tranny? The location is important. You could have a failing seal on the crankshaft, the oil pump could be failing, etc.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JIMB4606
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The diagram you attached is definitely the part that was leaking engine oil profusely (one drop per second). Some sources refer to this valve as a Vtec solenoid valve, others call it a VVT. I'm not some which is correct or what this valve does, but by replacing both seals the leak has stopped! It looked like the major portion of the leak was at the engine block to valve body interface caused by hardened rubber seal with complete compression set. (The valve body seal contained a new screen, as your diagram indicates, so there was no need to clean the old one - it wasn't dirty anyway). It cost me $16 bucks for the seal kit, $40 worth of wrenches and a little blood loss from scrapes due to confined spaces.

Thanks for your helpful conversation. You're providing a great service that's a combination hard to find these days - unbiased and knowledgeable! Thank you. If it acts up again I'll definitely write back.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
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  • 14 POSTS
From what I can see it is coming straight down and there is a puddle under the car where the plug is but it is not the plug b/c I just replaced that with my last oil change.

Could it be a front main seal that has gone bad?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back:

You are very welcome and I'm glad it's fixed. I'm sorry to hear about the blood loss. LOL Newer cars don't allow too much room. There are some cars I swear were built around components. I had an Audi to repair once that needed a simple 3 inch long plastic oil cooler tube replaced. It had two o-rings which had gone bad and created a leak.
All in all, fifteen dollars in parts. The problem was, step one in the manual was remove the engine. LOL It called for 24 hours in labor. I did it in 8 without removing the engine. The customer was happy.

Regardless, feel free to come back anytime. We enjoy helping people like you.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
It could be the front seal but I would venture a guess that you could not whether the oil is coming from the oil pan gasket or the timing belt cover.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
C.LARRY30
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4.3L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 90 MILES
Have a leak oil leak. I think it's the oil pump or oil pump gasket and I have no idea how to change it.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
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Definitely coming from the front main seal so I replaced it and now my car is stalling out when I put my foot on the clutch. I also found that my EGR Valve is bad so I replaced it but still have the stall problem and now the seal came off again. ARGH
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,747 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

Can you tell me exactly where the leak is being noticed? The oil pump is internal and most likely has nothing to do with the leak. Does it seem like the oil pan may be the issue? Is there evidence of oil leaking down from the valve cover? Is the leak in the rear or front of the engine?

If you could upload any pics of what you are seeing, it will be helpful. Also, please confirm the engine size for me. Last, here is a link you may find of interest.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-is-leaking-oil

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
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Did you mess with the wires behind the timing cover when putting in the seal?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
No I definitely did not mess with the wires. I am going to buy another seal but I can't fisgure out the satalling issue. The fuel filter is fine, the fuel pump relay is fine so now I am just clueless
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
When the seal came of, did the oil pressure drop and a cel come on?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HELPMYHONDA
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 HONDA ACCORD
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 155,000 MILES
My son's car overheated. We put in coolant. Seemed fine. Brought it to dealer for service. They said there was engine leak in back of engine and that the head gasket was cracked. Repair at $1600. Brought to another dealer. They said the gasket cannot crack on these cars and that it was the mounting holes that were warped from overheating. The engine would need to be replaced at $3000. Which is it? How can we know? Is there a cheap fix? We are low on cash. He will be leaving for college in a month and then only needs it occassionally when visiting home. So, something cheap that will just get us through for a while would be great. If we do get it repaired is it worth it?
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
No, nor did I have a warning light or and codes showing and the check engine light isn't even on. Nw I can;t find another front main oil seal anywhere. I am losing my mind.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
F4I_GUY
  • MECHANIC
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There is no cheap fix. And nobody can really know what is causing the leak (a warped cylinder head or gasket) until they pull the cylinder head off.

If it's worth it is really dependent on how the rest of the vehicle is. If it's in good shape, you should do it.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Are you referring to the CKP/TDC sensor wiring - then no I did not mess with them however, both sensors were submerged in oil when the seal blew out. Would that affect or destroy the sensors?

Also having problem with keeping the seal from popping out and I have approximately 1/8" end play in crank shaft. Do you believe that could be causing the seal to pop out?

One last question, prior to seal blowing out the second time in as many weeks I was having a problem whenever clutch was pushed in when coming to a stop light the engine would stall, if shifted transmission into neutral without using the clutch engine did not stall. Is clutch switch somehow related to engine RPM or to PCM input?

Thanks,
Kim
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
P. S. Regarding last issue with stalling, have tested the fuel pump relay, VTEC selanoid, EGR Valve, and all checked out fine.

Thanks,
Kim
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,754 POSTS
You have found your problem. The play in the crankshaft is enough to play havoc with a couple of things. It will continue to kick out the seals. I would say you may have a bearing that is bad or since the bearings are split that one has popped out. Either way there is a bearing or two that is gone. You will continue to have seal and oil leaks.

On top of that, those two sensors are not able to correctly tell the computer their position because there is too much play in the shaft.

Not really that great of a bit of news for the Christmas time period. You seem pretty savy, and with a torque wrench and a little elbow work you could lift out the engine and rebuild it. I have purchased an entire kit on ebay for about $125. I put on a new oil pump, water pump, timing belt, clutch and had just under $500 dollars in the rebuild. Only pain in the butt was I did not have cherry picker to pull the engine but with some digging you can borrow one.

Good luck and ask more questions as needed, we like to help!
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Not the news I was hoping for but at least now I may have a solution. Thanks for all your help. By the way, what kit for $ 125 on ebay are you referring to? It is a re-build kit? I really don't want to have to re-build this engine especially since I only have 156,000 miles on it and I had almost 200,000 miles on my Toyota when I sold it and never had these issues and was told that before I bought my Honda brand new that it would last me forever with no real headaches. I did a lot fo research and this car seemed to be the best 4 door in its price range at the time. Needless to say, I am very frustrated and disgusted that I have to already re-build the engine and at this time it is just not feasible to do but I have been without a car for 2 weekds now and am going crazy.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
P. S. The water pump, clutch, and everyting else are fine and I just changed the timing belt about 3 months ago.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KANDBTOWING
  • MEMBER
  • 14 POSTS
Bruce,

Sorry I could only donate $50.00 for your help but with this car issue and it being Christmas time that is about all I can afford right now. I wish it could have been more and maybe in the future I will have more to donate.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:41 AM (Merged)

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