Engine oil leak at bottom?

Doesn't seem to have specific torq. Here is partial procedure for distributor and o-ring replacement.

Using a new O-ring, install it on the distributor shaft. Coat it lightly with clean engine oil.
The drive lugs in the end of the distributor shaft are slightly offset to match the offset in the end of the camshaft. Position the distributor shaft for an approximate match, then fit the distributor in place.
Make certain the drive lugs are correctly engaged and the O-ring is in place. Install the retaining bolts centered in the mounts and just snug enough to hold the distributor in place.
Reconnect the external wiring and install the spark plug wires. Double check their placement.
Start the engine and set the timing. Tighten the distributor bolts.

It isn't the main seal leaking is it?

Hello

Great info from bluelightnin6

If you are talking about the hold down bolt torque for the distributor it is:

Hold down bolt torque 18 Nm (13 ft lb)

Please let us know if this was the fix for your vehicle or what was so we can better assist others.

This guide can help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-is-leaking-oil

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hello -

I know bluelightnin6, was working with you on this. . ..but he may be tied up since there hasn't been any response to your question. So if you don't mind I may add some suggestions until he can get back with you.

Review of what you are looking at is an oil leak it appears. The main seal I am almost positive is too far down below the VTEC.

The VTEC is located on the cylinder head. My thought is it may be leaking out of the solenoid itself or the pressure switch that is threaded into the VTEC solenoid housing.

My suggestion since you have replaced the VTEC seals is I attached the info I have on that just so you can make sure you and I are talking about the same ones.

Next, there is a filter on the VTEC. . ...did you clean it?

Next - I would remove the pressure switch and place thread tape on it and put it back in.

Oil leaks are tuff. . .. . .once you have cleaned it. . ..use electrical cleaner for terminal boards. . .it is not as harsh and evaporates. . ...spray it all down really good so it is totally dry.

Start the vehicle and with a mirror and strong light just stare at it. Give it time. . .if you say it takes about 5 minutes then you know you need to wait at least that long. If you want, use the spray first and see if you can locate the leak before you take it all apart.

I show the dealer wants about $147 for the solenoid and about $68 for the switch. Again, it may be leaking out of one of these or the threads.

Let me know what you find out.

Oh, one last note. . ...you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you. I attached them last.

VTEC Solenoid Inspection
Notes

Disconnect the 1P connector from the VTEC Solenoid Valve.

Measure resistance between the Terminal and body ground. Resistance: 14 - 30 ohms .

If the resistance is within specifications, remove the VTEC Solenoid Valve assembly from the Cylinder Head, and check the VTEC Solenoid Valve filter/O-ring for clogging.
If there is clogging, replace the Engine Oil Filter and the Engine Oil.

If the Filter is not clogged, push the VTEC Solenoid Valve with your finger and check its movement.
If the VTEC Solenoid Valve is normal, check the Engine Oil pressure.

Sorry about that guys. I have been wrapped up for most of the weekend because of the holiday. Thanks ImpalaSS for helping out while I was busy.

Manny3700, I hope that the great info. ImpalaSS has given you will help cure your oil leak and sorry I could not respond quick enough.

Hello -

Great - glad you got it fixed!

Let us know if we can help you in the future..... Make sure you tell your friends about us.

Hey, don't forget to check the dealer on those recalls...

Have a great weekend.

What I suggest is to get a dye to add to the oil. Add it, drive it, and then using a black light it will help you locate where the leak is coming from.

It could be leaking, but usually not.

For this engine the head gasket would not leak without affecting the engine.

If oil is splattered all over, clean it up and recheck the source of the leak. If you do not see any external leaks from above and is only coming from between the transmission and engine joint, you have a leak with the rear main seal. During replacement of the seal if the crankshaft had been damaged or the seal not correctly, you would have the problem. The other thing that can caus this is the crankshaft where the seal lips are seated are worn and the new seal is seated onto it.

Have you looked under the timing cover at two potential leak areas? They include the crankshaft seal and the oil pump.

A couple of other things to think about. For instance, oil will travel down a path that it finds and that is usually the path of least resistance. I would start looking up. For instance, there is a seal at the other end of the block between the tranny and the block on the crankshaft. I am ruling out the oil pan and the oil pan gasket. Also, on the back side of the block are a coule of hoses that oil flows through. Check for any cracking on the hoses.

If the leak is from upper portion of trans, yes, it would be from the distributor.