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Engine oil leak

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HONDA ACCORD
  • 1,000 MILES
I just bought the car listed above new and it has an oil leak. The dealership can't seem to get it fixed. Should I ask for a different car? I am worried.
Tuesday, November 20th, 2012 AT 4:43 PM

58 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,691 POSTS
This sound sliek the engine oil drain plug or and oil filter problem which is common but to be sure this guide will help us fix it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-is-leaking-oil

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Tuesday, November 20th, 2012 AT 6:50 PM
Tiny
SDIFF40
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
I had this problem they had to install a front main seal has bad fyi
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM
Tiny
HATEIT4YA
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 2009 HONDA ACCORD
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 189,210 MILES
My car has been leaking oil off and on into my alternator from a part directly above the alternator that I need help identifying please. I know the oil pressure switch goes into/on top of this unknown part and it is also where my oil dipstick tube is located. Its position on my car's engine is between the timing belt cover and the front valve cover underneath the plastic cover that goes over the front valve cover. My first sign that there was a problem was when my alternator quit working. So I assumed because it was leaking oil that it needed the gaskets replaced and I replaced the two gaskets (one with some type of screen in it). I then replaced the alternator but It continued to leak for a little while then just stopped. A few months later it began to leak again so I put gasket sealer all the way around the outside of this part and it stopped leaking. It is leaking again now and so badly that gasket sealer won't work anymore. Can anyone tell me if perhaps it is the part itself that needs to be replaced? I mean it doesn't seem to be leaking from the part itself but instead from where the part meets the aluminum underneath. Like it just needs a gasket but that just didn't fix it for me, for long anyway. I've attached a picture of the part I'm trying to identify.

Also I almost forgot three codes are showing up:

P0430-Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 2
P0530- A/C refrigerant pressure sensor A circuit
P0305- Cylinder five misfire detected

Any help would be so appreciated!
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,691 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros.

I believe that is the front oil control valve. Do me a favor, take a look at the pics I attached. They show the oil control valve and the oil control solenoids. Let me know if this is where the problem is and if that looks like the part. It's a little hard for me to tell only looking at one angle of your picture.

Let me know.

Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HATEIT4YA
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Hi, thanks!
The picture on the right, the one that looks like a sketch is the exact part I was talking about. And yes it is toward the front of the vehicle instead of the rear.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,691 POSTS
Welcome back:

That is the rocker arm oil control valve. Here are directions for removal and replacement. First, you need to remove the valve cover and the rocker arm assembly. I attached those directions first. The two attached pictures correlate with the directions.

____________________________________
Rocker Arm Assembly Removal

Front

1. Remove the cylinder head cover. See: Valve Cover > Removal and Replacement > Cylinder Head Cover Removal (J35Z3 Engine)

2. Loosen the locknuts and the adjusting screws (A).

Picture 1

3. Remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts, the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts, and the rocker arm assembly.
-1 Loosen the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts and the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts in sequence two turns at a time, to prevent damaging the valves or the rocker arm assembly.
-2 When removing the rocker arm assembly, do not remove the rocker shaft bridge mounting bolts and the rocker shaft holder mounting bolts. The bolts will keep the rocker arms on the shafts.

Picture 2

__________________________
Here are the directions for replacing the part. The last pic correlates with these directions.

FRONT ROCKER ARM OIL CONTROL VALVE REPLACEMENT (J35Z2 ENGINE)
Front Rocker Arm Oil Control Valve Replacement

1. Remove the front rocker arm assembly. See: Cylinder Head Assembly > Overhaul > Rocker Arm Assembly Removal (J35Z2 Engine)

2. Remove the front rocker arm oil control valve (A).

3. Install the front rocker arm oil control valve in the reverse order of removal.

Picture 3

_____________________________________________

I believe this is Honda's part number, but please confirm.

15811RYEA01

Let me know if that helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HATEIT4YA
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Okay thank you so much! I will let you know how it turns out.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,691 POSTS
Happy to help. Let me know how things work out for you.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 2005 HONDA ACCORD
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I am thinking of purchasing the car listed above with 100,000 miles. I took it to the dealer for a pre purchase inspection. The inspection should no major problems tires slightly worn, brake fluid contaminated, air cabin filter needs changing.
There was observed some engine oil seep, and mentioned in the report for my information.
There were no recommendations made however.

I'm wondering if this observation of engine oil seep should be a deal breaker for me buying the vehicle.
Thanks
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello,

Not necessarily. You can have an oil leak from the oil pan, front or rear main oil seals, oil sending unit, oil filter, valve covers, head gasket or if your vehicle uses a timing chain, which yours does not-it uses a timing belt, from the timing chain cover. All of these will be leaking from a replaceable gasket. If the leak is not bad enough to concern the technician, then it probably isn't too bad at all. The thing to do would be to call the shop and talk to the technician and find out where the leak was. Some of these gaskets are easier to replace then the others, so that might be a consideration in your decision making process. Please keep us informed as to what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thanks for your reply. I will call and find out what area he spotted the seepage.
Thanks much
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,441 POSTS
Welcome to 2CarPros. It would depend on what is seeping and how bad. With 100,000 on it I would expect the gaskets to be brittle and likely to weep.
Has it had any work done like the timing belt replaced or other required maintenance? That would be more important to know.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I'm not certain about all the maintenance on this vehicle.

Something I failed to mention in my original post is the engine was replaced several months ago with a salvage yard engine that has 60,000 miles on it. The owner of the car said that the original engine blew out a valve through the top of the engine. The engine was installed by the owner of the car and his friend who both work on cars for a hobby.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULSHINE01
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 105,000 MILES
1).I found recently oil leak from the steering rack of my car. Its red colour oil. My machanic told me to replace the rack kit. How much it cost? If its is not replaced wat will happen? If I check my oil every day and fill oil again to the reservoir that will help without replacing it. Am worried about the expense.

2). I bought my car from a first party. I think he was not maintaining his car properly with engine oil change etc. When I buy my car I found the engine oil was less by 3 ltr in my cars engine and it look like thick black in colour. My machanic advised me to have a engine flushing. Is it very expensive. How much it cost? This will solve my problem? If any other problems with engine how can I check it?

Please help me with my doubts. Thanks.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JUSTIN FREED
  • MEMBER
  • 87 POSTS
If you are going to replace the rack, it could be quite pricey. How much I would hate to guess because it all depends on who is doing the work and where you get the parts. If you do it yourself and you get a rack from a junk yard, you may be looking at only a few hundred dollars. If a dealership does it, be prepared for much more than that. Getting a second opinion is always a good idea.

Just continuously adding oil is not the answer. It may help you go a bit further but, if the rack is bad, you DO NOT want to be driving around when the thing goes out! Best bet: Get it fixed or stop driving it.

As for flushing your engine, that is not too bad and a very doable job for a DIY'er.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

60,000 miles on an engine isn't really a lot. An engine that is maintained properly is just starting to get broken in at 60,000 miles. The fact that a valve got blown through the top of the vehicle's last engine is a little bit troubling. How was the vehicle being driven for this to happen? Possibly timing belt could have broken and bent the valves, or pushed one through the top of the engine, so maybe it was just through normal wear and tear. If you do decide to purchase this vehicle, changing the timing belt might not be a bad idea.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Supposedly it was being driven by the owners 18 year old daughter at the time. This Honda Accord is an EXL model with a V6 engine and a timing chain, no belt.
Would a 60,000 mile engine be expected to have engine seep as mentioned by the tech?
The owner seems like a honest straightforward guy but I just can't afford to buy this car if it's going to go south a few months later. That is why I paid for the pre car inspection but it seems to have opened a can of worms for me.

Thanks
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
So I spoke with the technician about the oil seepage. He said it was coming from around the oil sending unit. It was just seep no leak and to replace the oil sending unit switch if it starts leaking is $164.00. That is great news! Otherwise the tech said the car passed all other tests and is in good shape for a 2005 Accord. He said just the tires are getting close to the wear line, probably 10,000 mi more on tread.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • MECHANIC
  • 13,441 POSTS
Hmm the only 3.0 V6 for that year I can find uses a timing belt not a chain. May want to verify that before purchase.
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VETDOC
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hi Steve
Yes you are correct the V6 does have a timing belt, not a chain. Honda recommends changing every 100,000 miles.
So my next question since this engine was swapped in and has 63000 do you think it would be safe to wait till it has 100000 on it before changing the timing belt.
Thanks
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Tuesday, August 25th, 2020 AT 11:34 AM (Merged)

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