No spark at the plugs?

Tiny
BIGJOHN610
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I've performed all of those diagnostic tests. Once before I replaced the pickup coil, ICM, and coil with new Motorcraft parts. Then, I did them again last night after it shut off again. Still no signal to coil, spout or no spout. Today, a friend of mine let me borrow his distributor. Same result. Started and ran, then after about fifteen minutes, it shut off. No signal to coil. Put the distributor back on his truck and it started right up. I replaced the PCM a year ago with a rebuilt one. I'm leaning towards it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,897 POSTS
Hello again,

Okay, Can I get you to check the wire coming from the #1 cavity on the TFI Ignition Module Connector. Please run this wire back and check to make sure it has a good tight connection, and it is not damaged and there is no corrosion present anywhere. I have included a diagram of the connector and component locations in the diagrams below. Please get back to us with what you find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGJOHN610
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Okay, I will.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGJOHN610
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
As soon as I get in (I'm an otr truck driver) I'll check out the ground.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ARAIN WRIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD F-150
  • 4.9L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 7,000 MILES
Engine turn over won't start no fire. Was driving down the road and truck cut off, Tryed push start nothing.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hello,

OK, first thing I would look at is the Distributor Cap & Rotor, when was last time replaced. Look inside is there corrosion in the contacts if so would replace along with rotor. While there if can have someone turn engine over and watch to see if rotor spins, if doesn't then most likely will need new distributor.

Other possibilities -

If Check Engine Light is On

TPS - Throttle Position Sensor
IABV or IAC - Idle Air Bypass Valve or Idle Air Control Valve

The engine needs to be at normal operating temperature for testing.

The self test connector is on the drivers side inner fender well. Check Pic for shape of connector. Then hook up a jumper wire as shown in the diagram below. Turn your key forward to the RUN position (KOEO, key on, engine off), and after a few seconds the codes will begin to flash through Engine Light or if you have hooked up a voltmeter, the needle on the voltmeter will indicate the digits of the trouble codes in sweeps of the needle. Record all codes and identify them as KOEO codes.

Code will be shown in blinks of the light or sweeps of the needle.

Example:

2 digit Codes

1 fast flash, with 2 sec pause, then 2 fast flashes is code 12

2 fast flashes, with two sec pause, then 3 quick flashes is code 23.

3 digit codes

1 fast flashe, 2 sec pause, 3 fast flashes, 2 sec pause, then 2 fast flashes is code 132

If there are more there will be a 4 second pause before the next code starts.

After the KOEO codes finish. Continuous codes follow after a 6 to 9 second pause, a fast flash, and another 6 to 9 second pause. Write these codes as continuous codes. Then remove key and the jumper wire.

You won't be able to perform Key On Engine Running test(KOER) at this time.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGJOHN610
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ok. The ground is good all the way back to the ecm. I checked all the connections on all 6 wires and continuity tested. I checked the ignition suppression resistor, 21.9k ohms. All of this I did before starting the engine and after it died and went into a no start condition. Had a coil signal before it started. No coil signal after it died.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,711 POSTS
Hi ARAIN WRIGHT,

Just checking in to see if you resolved the no spark problem.

Thanks

Mark
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,602 POSTS
It sounds like the PCM went out, but to be sure let's check the wiring between the ECM and distributor. Here is a guide and the ignition system wiring diagrams. Also check the ECC relay.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what happens.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEXASTURKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 1991 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 155,000 MILES
I have a 1991 F-150 that is not getting a spark from the coil. Tester light on Tach output bright and pulses when cranking. TFI module computer tested ok. Coil resistance checks OK. Checked wiring harness. What am I missing?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If your getting a power signal to one side and a pulse to the other, that would indicate a bad coil or coil wire. Also, if you used a test light with an incandescent bulb, you can fry the ignition module in a heartbeat. You need to use either a noid light or computer safe test light.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TEXASTURKEY
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
I tried changing the coil wire with a good one and still no joy in Mudville. I checked the resistance of the primary and it is 1 ohm and the secondary is 8.9K which puts it with in specs. Do you think it is still not functioning?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If it gets the proper signals and no spark comes out, then the coil is bad. Just be sure about your testing.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAN2744
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
I was driving my truck and all of a sudden it quit and acted like it was out of gas, fuel pump sems to work so I checked to see if there was a spark and there isnt one. Can I test the coil and/or the module?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
First things first. Go out and buy a spark tester. Then check spark directly from coil. If its there then check for spark coming out of each spark plug wire. Make sur eyou ground out the tester good. Note back what color the spark is. Shoudl be bright and blue. Not orange or yellow.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-1
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAZYFORDS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1991 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,000 MILES
The timing chain broke on my father-in=laws truck and it was replaced. Then about a month later it truck would not start. After he looked at it he determined that his ingition module was bad. Long story short we have replaced the Ignition Module, Pick-up Coil (Stator), Ignition Coil, and we still are not getting any spark. There is a little peice that attaches to the bracket that the Ign Coil mounts to that he was gong to replace but not sure what it is or what it does. IT looks like the old condenser from a points and condenser set up (only this does not have that set up. Help I'm not sure what to do to help him out. Thanks for any help!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 19,053 POSTS
Its still called condenser its not going to stop the truck
check the connector plug on the coil
pull it out and check for battery power with key on
and when plugged back in with key on two terminals should show battery power
and when cranking one should lose its power and ground the coil on off
if so and still no fire replace coil
another thing to look for turn key on do you have check engine light on
let me know
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OMISSTAB
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
  • 1990 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 158,000 MILES
I have a 1990 Ford f150 158,000 miles that I can't get started. The truck turns over but there is no Spark. The alternor has charge. Put in a new battery, plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor in cap, coil and a part I dont remember the name( it's on the side of the truck and the positive and negative cables are connected to it). Any suggestions on what to do next to get it started? Starter? Timing chain?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
Most likely an ignition module. Those are very toughy and go out for no real reason. Should be mounted to the side of the distributor where the electrical plug goes. You must disconnect ehneg batttery cable before replacing it or you may burn up the new one
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, October 14th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links