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No spark

Tiny
SCORPIO110103
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD F-150
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 185,000 MILES
Well.I got the starter to work. Now it won't fire. I replaced the plugs, cap and rotor before I got the starter to work. I'm pretty sure that I have all the wires going to their correct spots, I did the plugs first, one at a time, and then marked the wires and their locations on the cap. Any suggestions?
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Saturday, August 29th, 2009 AT 11:53 AM

12 Replies

Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
Check for spark on all cylinders at the spark plug end off wiring with a spark tester.

Should be bright blue spark and should be fireing at a consistant rate not like a machinegun firing.
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
I don't have a spark tester.
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
  • 10,371 POSTS
You can buy one they realatively cheep. You dont need a top of the line one. Make sure you have a good clean engine ground to ground it too
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
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  • 16 POSTS
Alright.I'll check it out and get back to you!
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Well, I bought one but, it wasn't the right one. The car has to be started for it to work.
I was able to get it started somehow, it ran for about 30 seconds. Sounded like crap, and then died. I think my firing order may be messed up? What I had marked down and from what it says in the repair manual are two different things. I believe it's a "straight 6", all plugs are on the same side of the block.
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Does this "tester" require the engine to be running or not?
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
MJR346
  • MECHANIC
  • 132 POSTS
The right tester usually will be nothing more than a spark plug or a tool with a gap that has a alligator plug on it to check for fire. And it doesn't have to be running as you are wanting to see if the spark plug is firing period. That's all we are worried about that the coil is discharging and is going to the spark plugs thru the wires

The firing order if I remember is 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
OK. The testers they had, I asked, they said the vehicle has to be running for them to work. Maybe they don't know what they're talking about? I saw one with a metal point and an alligator clip, this is the one he said it needs to be running to use, should I get it?
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
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Shouldnt have to be running in order for it to work. Just cranking
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
SCORPIO110103
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Got the tester, tried it out. I didn't get it to light up. It's one with a long metal rod with a pointy tip and an alligator clip.
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
BLACKOP555
  • MECHANIC
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Check for spark directly from coil now. If nothing you have to check for +12v to the coil with key on and with eneinge cranking you need a pulsing -12v reference
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Tuesday, October 3rd, 2017 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
More then likely you have an issue with the hall effect stator assembly. This is used to trigger the coil so if you are not getting spark then this is where we need to start.

Here is a guide that will tell you how to test the ignition system:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-an-ignition-system

Below I attached the information on this system. Basically we need to go through the system shown and check for where we have voltage and where we do not. That will tell us the issue but I suspect the stator is the issue so I included the process on how to replace that.

Let us know what you find and we can go from there. Thanks
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Monday, January 18th, 2021 AT 3:29 PM

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