Idle not low enough and rough

Last post is screwy for some unknown reason-

that is my fresh air not "LOOKY HERE"

"LOOKY HERE" was 'spota be these 2 pics

The Medic

Yes,

Fresh air from breather to rear valve cover hole. Like mine in a pic or two back.

Ain't my new $26 cover perty!

The Medic

You seem to be hanging with the right feller huh?

You are EZ to help out!

Check out this junk and lemme know what you think. This is an East Coast parts store!

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2001-dodge-neon-milage-just-want-put-fliuds-their-locations

The Medic

Lets look thru the air cleaner snout. Is it wide open thru there? No little doors closed that would block air from getting to the carb?

Let's leave the hoses on the air cleaner for the time being (just not hooked to any vacuum)

EGR is not needed (If you had headers, it would not work with them. Hence it is not a necessary part) You done good taking the line off of it! Just for info, if you took the whole unit off, you would have to make some modifications to plug it's holes off. As it sits (hopefully fully closed) It will be just fine.

Yes, all unused carb and intake vacuum ports should be capped. Do what you wish with the ports they used to operate, they don't suck air, capping might look nicer and also keep those "know it alls" from pointing out a naked port/ but it really is unnecessary to cap 'em.

Everything dangling can be taken loose and the wires can be rolled up out of the way (if it makes things look prettier, take those pesky wires out of the wire looms so they will roll up smaller. Insure none of that stuff will Rub Raw on something or get melted on the engine or exhaust manifold.

IMPORTANT!

Pretty much the only wires on the engine that are needed will be for the distributor/ coil/ the temperature sending unit (on the head-should be a purple wire w/ a stripe)

The oil pressure sender (passenger side of engine, low, and near the bell housing, purple wire)

Mr. Choke (I prefer a manual choke- I decide when to use it, less things that need adjustment, less worries of it getting hung up)(we can discuss this later if you wish)

Any thing you are not sure of- point at it and send a pic!

Sometimes I make mistakes, Check and correct me if I miss something!

Later you might even remove some of the unused crap that is screwed into the block and head and replace them with brass or steel tapered (plumbing) plugs just to pretty it up more. (Save it for a rainy day)

Is it looking more spacious and simple under the hood now?

Are you confident with this whole deal?

Got my valve cover on while ago! Pic soon.

The Medic

Need a good pic/ gotta see the wires

See pic below

The Medic

Send me a pic of the distributor connection too.

I wanna see the wires on both sides of connector.

The Medic

Forgot your question above.

Any sensors, other than the 'keepers' can be disconnected.

Let's get it running good, then if you want to later, you can unscrew the sensors and plug off the holes.

Let's keep the O2 sensor installed, you can use it to run a air/ fuel ratio gauge if desired (that's all it runs). On my '77, I had to drill a hole in my exhaust/ install a bung/ install an O2 sensor. With my Holley 390 CFM carb, it's been very useful in "Jetting" it correctly. Even if you don't need to jet (your BBD is just fine), it's a cool gauge, mine's on my steering column.

Without having it run yet, are you sorta impressed with a brand new, inexpensive, Plain Jane BBD? You gonna return the other one?

The Medic

Good pics!

Waiting on 'stributor,

Mainly want to see all wires at once on either side (colors and positions) fine, if it takes a few shots.

The Medic

Good deal!

Got in pretty late, I'll try to get you some ign info tomorrow.

Sorry!

The Medic