Idle not low enough and rough

So another thing I should mention is that the carburetor is brand new from guaranteedcarburetors. Com. I bought it from them and they deliver it tuned and ready to bolt and go. The choke works perfectly, as it starts really high then warms up and goes down, but not to the 600 rpm range. Solenoid is old, as it did not come with the carburetor, but it does not appear to be holding the carburetor open. I will re-check that, but I am almost positive that is not the problem. Most likely a vacuum leak, or something with the vacuum system?

Ok, so it seems that the solenoid, wasn't doing much, so I took it off and capped the vacuum port. I have adjusted the air mixture screws so that now the vehicle idles smoothly. I started unscrewing the curb idle screw to bring the idle rpm down, but when I unscrew the curb idle screw, it just creates a space between the end of the screw and the piece of metal the curb idle screw is supposed to hit. So essentially, I can back out the curb idle screw more but it doesn't change anything because lever doesn't move forward at all. There is nothing blocking it from moving. I tried to push it forward, but it wont go. Is that supposed to be like that? Do I need to go back and adjust the mixture screws again to bring the idle down even though it's idleing smoothly?

I don't know if the lever has the capability to move forward because it doesn't go even when pushing it. Moves fine the other way to accelerate the engine, just doesn't go any further closed than where it is.

I have the bbd carb with the stepper motor on the back. I bought it newly rebuilt from guaranteed carburetors. Com. No modifications to the engine that are present. Looks like some of vacuum tubes are not there, but I have capped off all the open ports. 2 caps on 2 ports that are black and stickig out of the manifold area, capped the port to my air filter intake hose, removed the solenoid from the carb as it appears rusted and broken. Also capped a vacuum port on the driver side bottom area of the carb closest to the wheel well and firewall. There were some other ports that were capped that sit on top of the valve cover. Will send pictures shortly. Also have power brakes.

See these images. Yes the choke butterfly stands completely vertical when fully warmed. Also have power brakes, aluminum valve cover and electric fan with aluminum radiator. Valve cover does not leak.

More pictures

More just in case

This has an Automatic choke. To set it I step on the gas which closes the choke plate. Not sure if it's electric, just automatic. Once warmed I step on the gas again to get it to a slower idle.

I have not checked my timing. I have a multimeter that measures dwell. I don't have a timing light or vacuum gauge, but can get them if I need them. I am pretty sure I know how to set the mixture screws correctly, but maybe I am wrong. You can see below what I did to set the mixture screws.

I look at the steps and they are not in the way of the adjustment. When the jeep is warmed up, the screw that was touching the ridged portion of the steps, now touches the top smooth area. I use my multimeter to measure the RPM's, and the best I can get it to run is with the rpms around 780-820 (the multimeter fluctuates a little bit, doesn't stay at exactly one rpm). That's with the low idle adjustment screw all the way out. You still see threads showing on the low idle screw, but if I take it out anymore the throttle will not go any further down, and just create a space in front of the low idle screw. Nothing is holding it back I just think the carburetor cannot go any lower in terms of the idle adjustment. If I turn the mixture screws any more clockwise to get the idle lower around 670-730 range, the engine will run rougher, and will stall out when I stop quickly when driving. So I have the mixture screws backed out about maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn away from the spot where the engine will idle rougher and stall out when stopping. (The solenoid does nothing for the idle with or without it theres no difference.) At this point the only adjustment I can do for the curb idle screw is turn it clockwise to make the idle go higher, but can't go anymore counter clockwise because the piece that the accelerator cable is connected to seems to be at the lowest it can possibly go.

I will also upload a picture of the carburetor screws so you can see what I am talking about.

Here is a picture. Also, if there is a way I can get rid of the vacuum lines and emission crap to make the engine run better, I would not mind doing that either.

Also, forgot to add, how can I check to see if the timing is at 13 BTDC?

Ok, yes the screw with the double arrow is the screw I am talking about. So, today I tried disconnecting the throttle arm to see if the idle would go further down. It did not go any further down than where it currently is. If you see the picture in the last post with the double arrows, if I turn that screw any more out, the throttle linkage doesn't go any further. I think I have it set as low as it can go. When I take it further out the screw also gets a little wobbly. Should I try adjusting the air mixture screws again to bring the idle down to where it will almost stall then screw in the curb idle screw to bring it up a little? I mean I don't know if that will work either because the jeep seems to run a little rougher when using the air mixture screws to bring the idle down.