Engine idles but will not accelerate

Okay, so after I kicked myself in the face dealing with the first issue I found that I mistakenly plugged the TPS connector on the MAP and vice-versa.

Man was I glad ran perfect for about a day or so that is.

So I had bad gas originally when I first came back from a deployment with a bad rear motor mount. Pulled off the back of the motor to access the mount and reinstalled. Incorrectly hooked up the TPS and MAP but corrected that problem.

After filling up the gas tank I got about a good ten to fifteen miles and all of a sudden the engine started to misfire.

I has new plugs, new distributor, new rotor, but same racing 10 mm plug wires, probably should change but does not show any signs of leaking. But throwing codes for all four cylinders misfiring and also P1399 which I have no idea what that is and also code P0300.

All four injectors are clicking, fuel pressure seems good, at idle you cannot tell but once the engine starts to pick up or you punch the throttle you can hear the severe hesitation.

Some ideas on how to fix also how I can find a vacuum leak if there is one?

Trying to so not pay for costly dealership repairs but I have came so long so far doing my own repairs just so stumped on this.

Is it possible the timing belt jumped?

Is it possible the TDC crankshaft sensor?

Need help and some step by step with some description how to troubleshoot if possible.

Streatbeetz23, you just saved me. Spent a week off and on doing a head gasket swap and top-end cleanup on my 2000 Honda Accord SE 2.3L (f23a1). Mainly because I was losing fluids. It was my first head job ever so I was careful to write every step down, to not damage anything, etc. Cleaned intake and throttle body, injectors, emissions valve, etc. Replaced valve seals myself too. Changed fluids and did timing too. Pretty much tore it all down, cleaned everything (completely gunked up), replaced any gaskets I could, and put it back together (under $100 total including fluids).

All proud of myself, it was time for the moment of truth. Turned the key, pumped the gas. It ran. But way worse than before. Terrible idle, died repeatedly, kept cutting out when accelerating. I let it warm up and bled the fluid and such, then took it a mile down the road. Or should I say limped it. Finally made it back home. Tons of research and videos. Nothing quite fit, but could have been many things. Narrowed it down to most likely tps or map sensors. Then I read what you wrote. I simultaneously felt relief and like an idiot. Went outside, swapped the two plugs, started it up, and runs like a dream! I thought I was done for, as I can't afford to play the part swap game right now. You sir, are an unsung hero.

I was driving and the car has been acting weird. The first thing I noticed is when I would push the gas pedal hard it bogs down which reminded me of when I had a crack in the rubber air intake hose. Drove some more after getting gas went about 10 miles and it lost all power and stalled luckily its a manual so I got over to the side of the road safely. My mechanic replaced the EGR valve and now it starts but the engine bogs down a little before 2000 RPMS. My mechanic said it may have jumped time but unsure. The timing belt won't need replacing for another 35,000; the cap and rotor spark plugs and wires have been replaced a month ago. Replaced Coolant hose recently. Used seafoam to clean out the carbon because it was having problems for about a month with running. It would run fine just idle kind of low and not perform properly. Any ideas or suggestions? I have looked and seen people suggest fuel pressure and dirty intake manifolds, would that cause the engine to die so suddenly? It performed great and literally overnight the engine started having issues. I have sprayed with carb cleaner all the vacuum hoses and there are no leaks. HELP PLEASE :D

I changed the fuel filter all fixed.

1999 Honda Accord 5 speed experiences a sudden loss of power, gauges drop to zero for a split second and come back. The other day it died on the road then came back to life 15 minutes later. Maybe related issue, the vent switches on dash, select the two on teh right, Defrost and another (can't remember now) and it turns on AC as well. Those switches are also not backlight at night with headlights on.

Mechanic looked for a grounding problem, couldn't find one, my daughter is afraid to drive it now.

Thanks! I'll have that checked. I was going to go thru all the fuses as well to see if there was a hairline crack in any. Though if it is the ignition I doubt that would be related to the vent controls and AC, maybe more than one problem ;-)

Hello,
I have noticed a power loss when driving under wet conditions recently. I would happen randomly and then go away. This will last even after the car has been sitting for a while after driving through rain. I suspect the ignition system or the crank angle sensor which is a the bottom of the crank pulley. Perhaps water getting through the connector.
The car drives normally when dry and no check engine light.
Please advise. Thanks!

Hello Ken
I have previously replaced the wires and plugs not too long ago. I replaced the cap around two weeks ago. The main ignition coil sits on top of the transmission on this model. Any other suggestion? Have you seen this issue before on a car like mine?

No, just regular rain driving whithout driving through water puddles.

I just changed the intake gasket set on a 1999 Honda Accord EX, the motor is a 2.3L4 I also replaced the sparkplug wires & sparkplugs with what it called for which is NGK & gapped them at.044. I changed vavle cover gasket, oil, & also added antifreeze. When I cranked it up it ran at about 900rpm & when you press the gas slowly it idles up to about 2000rpm & then bogs down & shuts off. So I went ahead & replaced the egr valve & it still does the same thing. I took the spark plugs out & checked them & they was a smutty black color on them. This is the second set of spark plugs that look like that. I undone the exaust pipe from the manifold & dropped it down thinking the converter was clogged up because it popped up a code saying the converter was effienency & then a undenified code which was P1259 before I even worked on it & it still does the same thing. Before I dropped the exhaust down, it had no pressure coming out the exhaust & was sucking in air more than blowing it out the exhaust. It has two o2sensors on it, 1 at the exhaust manifold & 1 on the converter. I dont know what is wrong. Is it possible it jumped time, it looks like the stock timing belt on it. Please help.