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Safari won't start

Tiny
SDH54
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
My troubles started with driveability and hard starting problems. The vehicle now will not start unless I dump a little fuel down the throttle body. The only trouble code I get is P1351. The mitchell manual takes you through the ign. System to deal with this code. I have been going in circles chasing this code for some time now.
However! I found from another source that this code will also set if engine rpms are below 250.
I now suspect that cranking the heck out of the motor is causing the code. The real clue to my problem is the dumping a little fuel down the throttle body.
I'm not getting any gas.
The injector harness will light up a NOID test light for all cyls. I have 60 psi fuel pressure. Fuel just kind of dribbles out of the disconnected fuel return line with the pump running.
I suspect the fuel pressure regulator but the mitchell manual requires a set of fuel shutoff adapters (!$250.00!) To test it.
At this point it seems that if I had the adapters the test would indicate either the regulator or grounded injectors are my problem.
Any ideas on a work around or alternative pressure regulator test?
Thanks,
Steve
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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 12:47 PM

54 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
Try to remove the feed line off the front of the fuel filter, test the amount of fuel being pumped out when you crank the engine over. Let me know how much comes out. Also you mentioned it lights the noid light, but does it flash when cranking the engine?

Please check out the guide it will help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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Wednesday, January 7th, 2009 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
SDH54
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ken, The pump delivers about 1 gallon per minute (it was replaced last summer).
Thanks again, Steve
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Thursday, January 8th, 2009 AT 7:56 AM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
Hi Steve, lets remove all electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Perform a Ohms test across the terminals, replace any injector that's reading is greatly different from the others.
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Thursday, January 8th, 2009 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
SDH54
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Ken, All 6 injectors test at 11.5 to 11.8 ohms. This doesn't seem like enough variation to warrant replacement.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 1:07 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
Hi, yep, those injector are probably ok. With the key in the on position test the injector connector, one side should have power.
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
SDH54
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Yes Ken, as I said initially, I can light a NOID light at all 6 positions on the harness. I believe this indicates battery voltage on one side as well as proper function from the VCM.
To recap, the engine will run as long as I dump fuel down the throttle body, so, I have spark. Your suggestions have shown there is fuel delivery of 60 psi @ 1gpm, the injectors seem good, the VCM is doing its' job. Is there any other possibility besides the pressure regulator?
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Saturday, January 10th, 2009 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
The trouble code you mentioned is for the crankshaft position sensor. If that sensor intermitted fails it could cause the condition you are describing. I have replaced many of these sensors. Please check it out and get back to me.
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2009 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
SDH54
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Hello Ken, The crank sensor is new, as is the coil, ign module, hall sensor in the distributor, and VCM (passlock code relearned). Also since my problem started I went ahead and threw in cap, rotor, wires and plugs since they were about due anyway. (I work for an auto parts company and get a heck of a discount).
It really seems as if the ign system is good as well as the electronic side of the fuel system.
I've been reading a lot about the many problems with the GM CSFI fuel system and the popular conversion to MFI. I'm considering this as a real possibility. Whaddya think?
Thanks for your patience,
Steve
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2009 AT 1:58 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 47,513 POSTS
Hi Steve, have we checked for spark at the plug wire? please follow this video

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_test_an_ignition_system.htm

let me know
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2009 AT 8:56 PM
Tiny
RIDDLER69
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have replaced the coil, the cam postion senser, the pick module, spark plugs, and egnition module.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
The cam sensor and the pick up coil are the same part.
I assume you have no spark. It would be nice to know if you have injector pulse but it's very hard to check on that system. I would suspect a Crank sensor, assuming you have good fuel pressure.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIDDLER69
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
We all so replaced the crank sensor. It is getting some spark to the plugs. I have tryed spraying starting fluid in the air filter compartment it still will not start.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Time to start from scratch. Take a complete compression test and fuel pressure test.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LJOE RICE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 13,500 MILES
Repeated trouble starting our van, it cranks but does not
turn over right away, it may take 5 tries before it starts,
it gets worse as the weather gets colder, very bad in winter
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Cranks but no start condition-do below to determine whether it's fuel or spark issue:

Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

If both fuel and spark is present-check the valve and ignition timing, this will lead you to problems
with compression and valves opening and closing at the wrong time/broken or jumped timing
belt/chain.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MR.ANTHONY
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 120,000 MILES
When I got the van it was mistin very bad. I could hear it when I press the gas. So, I know that I need a tune up. The van stopped running, it started and I went to work. I turned the van off and now it wont start. I put on a new fuel filter and it will turn over but wont start. I was able to push the gas four times before it died. Do I need a fuel pump or should I check something else.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Did you have a check engine light come on or has flashed prior to this problem?

Cranks but no start condition:

Fuel and Spark:
Get a helper disconnect a sparkplug wire or 2 and ground it to the engine at least 3/16 away from ground -have helper crank engine over-do you have a snapping blue spark? If so-you have a fuel related problem, check the fuel pressure to rule out the fuel filter/fuel pump/pressure regulator and listen to the injector/s are they pulsing or hook up a noid light. No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
XAVIER5150
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
  • 6 CYL
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 148,000 MILES
I have a 2000 Safari with 148000 miles on it. Had problem with it running and found the rotor inside distributer was bad. Gave it a full tune up and it ran fine. For about 2 hours. It was giving the same symptoms as before the tune up, but checked and all was ok with the newly installed parts. Saw a post on this site almost identical to what I have been experiencing. The fix there was to replace the computer. I did that with a used one and now it will not run at all. Turns over just fine but wont run. Also it seems like the security system is going off every time I attempt to start it. Is there something im missing?
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVID421
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
First you need to get the computor programed to your vehicle information. Second you need to reprogram the security system by leaving the ignition on untill the security light goes off than turn the key off for 5 seconds and do it again 2 more times.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SAFARITROUBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2000 GMC SAFARI
Engine Mechanical problem
2000 GMC Safari 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

We purchased a Safari for our business and everything went well for a month or two. Then one day, it just decided not to crank. After running diagnostics on it for a number of hours, we determined that the fuel pump was the source of our troubles. We changed the fuel pump and it cranked right up. And then died. Since then it has, at times, refused to crank, cranked without a problem, died while driving down the road at 45 mph and just about everything in between. Normally after it dies on us, it won't crank again until we disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Sometimes, it won't crank even then.

Does anyone have an idea what the problem might be?

I'm just about ready to stick a piece of dynamite up the tailpipe but I thought I'd ask here before I do.
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Saturday, October 20th, 2018 AT 4:42 PM (Merged)

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