Fuel pump constantly cycles?

This is where you can see the arching in #6 with that Autolite plug in.

This you can see the little bit of gas coming out plug hole, I think that’s 4 cylinder.

I think that’s all of the decent videos I got, let me know what you think and I’ll try and send some rain y’all’s way !

The cylinder with no spark had the same amount of fuel as all the others. I guess I’m just realizing that I don’t know how much fuel would normally be in there because I’ve never pulled a plug and had fuel come out of them. If I shorted the videos to much or they didn’t have enough info just let me know and I’ll adjust, there is sound in all of those if you wanted to hear it cranking, one has the battery weakening but the others aren’t like that. They all have just about enough fuel to pour out of the plug after you take it out, or maybe it’s just that’s all it will hold, lol, sorry for the most part I usually am figuring some things out as I am saying or typing them, however no fuel pours out after removing a plug, that cylinder that didn’t spark(#4) did have the cracked ceramic on the plug and I'm hoping that’s why it didn’t show signs of firing. I didn’t retest the other side for the video. However, previous test showed all cylinders having what appears to be the same amount of fuel being injected. I'm guessing that would be more of a regulator problem, also wondering if said regulator would be cause for it to shut down while driving? In reality it could have been a combination of things because I did have some ground wires that were concerning once I looked at them. I’ve never done the fuel regulator or injectors; any advice is surely appreciated. With that fuel being in the cylinders, do I need to do anything to clear it or will it evaporate with the plugs removed being good enough?
Oh yea, what do you think about the arcing in that one cylinder (#6)?

Thanks again Joe.

* no fuel pours out of the cylinder after plug removal, however there is just enough in the plug to pour out.

Is there anything related to installing the new fuel pump that could be influencing the regulator to act this way, I’ve done the pumps before and I’m just wondering before I do all that digging. This whole time it seems I’ve been chasing a problem that reappears down the line after renewing something, i.E, fuel pump became an issue with the fuel pump relay(had proper ignition at this time), replacing positive side battery cables gave me back relay priming but lost the ability to start and run which made me check spark related things. First, I replaced the pigtail on crank sensor for exposed wires then the crank sensor, ignition control module however not the coil because it tested good. Except for the fuel pump itself, everything I replaced gave me the same results as the part taken out so I’m sticking with the parts originally in it, so I don’t mess up anything new and I don’t see the need. Mind you I did the crank and igm before actually testing for spark because it only seemed logical, I can’t help but wonder if it’s something like the computer causing these different issues that actually aren’t issues, am I overthinking or is it the rise of the machines happening in real time, lol, no seriously lol. I’d like to think I’m not an idiot, but this issue has been wearing on me and as my mind normally goes, if I don’t know what it is, my mind starts at the worst possible situation and it goes south from there. Anyway, thanks for your time, sometimes it helps to get these things out of my head and it definitely helps when I do that to someone who knows better.

Not sure if I answered your question correctly, the cylinder that showed the little bit of fuel leaking down was the cylinder that didn’t fire, yes.

It feels good to know I helped someone else, lol, especially when I need so much lately.
So cap and rotor are new, hadn’t put the tester right on the cap but I had spark on the one that didn’t fire when I tested it a week or so ago, just not the other day when I videoed it, as far as I know, I do most of this by myself and sometimes those a little hard to check, I can rig a separate starter switch but didn’t think I’d be going down this road. I’ll definitely try it right from the distributor cap, I can set the plug or test light so I can see it through the open hood.

I’m trying to get myself in gear this morning, but the shrimp were running pretty good down here last night and I’m moving kind of slow, lol. Wound up with about half a five-gallon bucket though so I’m happy with that, even if my morning doesn’t start until about 12:30 today lol. Glad to hear y’all are getting some good rain, maybe the tide is turning for both of us!
Have a good morning, I’ll get back with you soon as I can.

Finally got to test them and all 6 plugs have good spark, via testing with an inline spark tester. Also, I pulled one plug from each side, and they didn’t seem to be getting as much fuel in them, after pulling, I got a little bit out of each plug when I turned it over into my hand, just a little came out. It seems like a more appropriate amount. She cranks fine but doesn’t act like it wants to fire at all, like I’m missing something from the equation. Where should I look next?

That’s funny, I was going to ask you about something like this, what would this test be for?

With timing not adjustable here, how would the timing be off? Timing is another thing I’ve not done before, trying to put as much good info in my head as possible. Thanks man.

I gave that a shot, I wouldn’t say it sounded like it was going to fire but it did have a little more rumble to it as I cranked it.

I sure will Joe. When I did the last spark checks I recorded all of them but they are very short. I can do a longer crank tomorrow, I’ll send either the longest or a couple tonight. I do have an issue with my distributor cap, the front mounting screw has stripped a bit so it wasn’t snugging down enough without slipping so I added pipe tape and it seems snug enough, considering it isn’t starting I snugged it enough to be comfortable doing crank tests but might have to sure it up when I get it running, I realize the cap & distributor itself are two different things, just trying to add all the info I can. In doing the last test I removed the fuel pump relay, I’m assuming that is sufficient for that test? Thanks for walking through this process, I’m very grateful for your knowledge and insight