Engine Stopped Suddenly No Spark?

Nope, The ICM controls it all when it comes to the spark plugs. It determines which plug and when to fire. A bad relay would knock out the entire module so you have no spark at all. Same if it was a bad crankshaft or camshaft sensor, they would shut off all spark.
The wiring diagram is the modules connections. Notice the pins saying coils 1-4? Those are what tells which coil to fire. Check them over to be sure there is no corrosion or bad connection for the one labeled coil 1 (pin 11) That would be the only spot other than a bad coil, plug wires or plugs that would stop spark on cylinder 1.

Here is the theory of operation for your DIS system.

The Distributorless Ignition System (DIS) module performs the following important functions:
- provides a ground for the ignition system through two of the module mounting screws
- selects which ignition coil within the coil pack to fire
- contains solid-state electronic switches that control current to the coil primary circuits within each coil pack
- limit current flow in each coil primary circuit to a maximum of 5.5 amps
- generate the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal; this provides diagnostic information about the ignition system to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
- provide Failure Mode Effects Management (FMEM) operation.

The second item in that list is the important one in your case. The module selects which coil to fire and when based on the signals it gets.

CONSTRUCTION
The DIS ignition module is a thick film integrated design. The module contains a ceramic substrate thick film assembly and four output drivers mounted on a metal base plate and potted in a plastic housing.

OPERATION
The DIS ignition module receives the PIP (Profile Ignition Pickup) and CID (Cylinder Identification Device) signals from the crankshaft sensor and Spark Output (SPOUT) signal from the PCM. During normal operation, PIP is sent to the PCM from the crankshaft timing sensor and provides base timing and RPM information. The CID signal provides the DIS ignition module with the information required to synchronize the ignition coils so that they are fired in proper sequence. The SPOUT signal contains optimum spark timing and dwell time information. Spark angle is determined by the rising edge of SPOUT, while the falling edge of SPOUT controls the coil current "ON" or "DWELL" time. The dwell time is controlled or varied by varying the duty cycle of the SPOUT signal.

1993 Ford Ranger no spark

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, cap and rotor /distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, ECM, Ignitor cam and crank sensors- Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it

The inertia switch would shut the fuel pump off and the engine wouldn't run at all so I doubt it is the issue. I would recheck the firing order and wires. It sounds like there is an issue with the timing or firing order. That would push fuel fumes out as well and in a cold engine they would cause some nasty fumes.

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs,coil's resistances,distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer Note: If it doesn't apply disregard it.

See below:

In left front of engine bay,on upper radiator support.

Great to hear you figured it out. 38 is almost cold. LOL If you have any other automotive questions we will be here. Thank you for using 2CarPros.

Could be a relay that is starting to fail. The way the circuit works is simple, When you turn the key on, the PCM then turns on the pump relay for about 2 seconds, this is to bring the fuel pressure up in the event that any has leaked down while it sat. Then the relay turns off. When you turn the key to start it turns it on again and once the PCM sees an RPM signal of more that 120 rpm it turns the relay on full time and the engine runs. If the PCM sees that RPM signal drop below 120 or stop it shuts the pump relay off. If the relay contacts get bad they can stick. Another reason they can fail is if the fuel pump itself is starting to go bad and it's drawing excessive current. When that happens the contacts can spot-weld themselves together. That isn't hard to test but it takes an ammeter that can read up to 20 amps. Then you put it between the power feed and the pumps power lead. If you see around 5-8 amps it should be fine. Higher than that could be a bad pump. Personally I'd just replace the relay and see how it acts. If it has never been changed it's probably just worn out.

When you turn key on do you have check engine light on
if no light check fuses and relays
you can use an ohm meter to test CPS

With key on and check engine light comes on, that will suggest that the computer is powered and its fuse and relay in working condition
as for a crank sensor you can disconnect it and check is using an ohm meter or volts meter (ac volts should generate as you crank if sensor any good )
also I would check for battery power at the coil terminals

check TIMING BELT