Car cranks but will not start up?

I'm a little confused why "your" mechanic isn't working on it.

It can't properly be diagnosed if it keeps starting, when it isn't starting, you can find where the power stops going to. That is the diagnosing that your mechanic states doesn't exist. Diagnosing is troubleshooting and is very real. Until the source is determined, only then can there be a determination on any connection to the transmission.

By asking them to check a list of possiblilities would be wasting your diagnositic dollars as they are obviously good at this moment because it starts.

Hi fieldale,

When engine could not be started, you need to check what is missing. For this symptom, the most likely cause would be fuel is not getting to the cylinders. Check the fuel pump relay.

Scan for codes check fuel pressure and clean throttle plate with choke cleaner on both sides. If it won't start check your starter relay and battery condition.

Check you ignition switch, fuel pump relay and fuel pump, which could be failing.

This could be quite a number of things. When you start to diagnose you want to look for spark and fuel. Is there spark at the plugs? Is there fuel flowing to the injectors and thus the cylinders? It could be a failed sensor or relay. Start with the basics mentioned above.

Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

There isn't a fuel shut off. Can you hear the pump run? Have you confirmed fuel pressure?

First, I would check fuel pressure to confirm the pump is working. It could be working and not producing. Here is a quick link that shows how to check:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Here are the specific directions including specs:

Fuel Pressure Test

Special Tools Required
- Fuel pressure gauge 07406-0040001
- Fuel pressure gauge attachment 07VAJ-0040100

1. Relieve the fuel pressure.

See picture 1
2. Use a wrench to remove the fuel pulsation damper from its fitting, then attach the fuel pressure gauge attachment.

See picture 2

3. Attach the fuel pressure gauge.
4. Disconnect the vacuum hose (A) from the fuel pressure regulator (B) and pinch it closed with a clamp (C).
5. Start the engine and let it idle.
- If the engine starts, go to step 7
- If the engine does not start, go to step 6.

6. Check to see if the fuel pump is running: Remove the fuel fill cap and listen to the fuel fill Port while an assistant turns the ignition switch ON (II). You should hear the pump run for about 2 seconds when the ignition is turned ON (II).

- If the fuel pump runs, go to step 7.
- If the fuel pump does not run, test it.

7. Read the pressure gauge (with the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose disconnected and clamped). The pressure should be 320 - 370 kPa (3.3 - 3.8 kgf/sq.cm, 47 - 54 psi).

- If the pressure is OK and engine is running, go to step 8. If the engine is not running, repair the cause, then continue this test.
- If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 9.

8. With the engine running, unpinch and reconnect the vacuum hose, and read the gauge again. The pressure should be 260 - 310 kPa (2.7 - 3.2 kgf/sq.cm, 38 - 46 psi).

- If the fuel pressure is OK, the test is complete.
- If the pressure is out of spec, go to step 9.

9. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the pressure regulator again while you watch the pressure gauge. The pressure should rise when you disconnect the hose.

- If the pressure did not rise, replace the fuel pressure regulator.
- If the pressure rose, but all your readings were lower than specified, check for a clogged fuel filter and for leaks in the fuel lines.
- If the pressure rose, but all your readings were higher than specified, check for a pinched or clogged fuel return hose or line.

10. Reconnect the vacuum hose, remove the pressure gauge, and reinstall the fuel pulsation damper with a new washer. Tighten the fuel pulsation damper to 22 N.m (2.2 kgf.m, 16 lbf.ft).

NOTE: Disassemble and clean the fuel pressure gauge attachment thoroughly after use.

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Since it starts with starting fluid, then you are getting spark. With that in mind, if fuel pressure is within spec, then we need to check for an injector pulse. Here is a link showing how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-fuel-injection-systems-work

Here are a few links that may help with testing:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

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Next, check fuse number 1 in the under dash fuse / relay box. See picture 3

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-fuse-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

_________________________________________________

Do these tests and let me know what you find. Note: When checking the fuse, confirm there is power to it as well as out from it.

Take care,
Joe

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

The above link explains what to look for under such circumstances.

Once you get the source, let me know what is missing and we can get to resolving the problem.

Fuel pump tends to go bad much easier when fuel tank level is low most of the time and that could be the likely cause.

The overheating could have damaged the head gaskets and not allow the engine to start if the compression has dropped.

I believe you have a bad radiator cap as well, the presence of coolant on top of it indicates so.

Has the problem been resolved?

If the water pump is leaking, a pressure test should show some results.
It is difficult to say about the quality of after market parts so it is best to test them out.