Control Module - Infra-red lock

I understand, I'm just a curious as you are to what the previous technician did. I think you're correct though, he must have had a scan tool that could have disabled one of the modules, it's just odd that changing a battery would cause it to lose programming. That doesn't usually happen. Then again Mercedes are not your average car. They are pretty complex, same with BMW, jaguar, etc. My worry is that for some reason the DAS module is not being powered up and sending the CANbus message to the ECM to Auth drive. What's the Luck Control module you mentioned earlier?

I wanted to give you these diagrams too, they are for the 38/32 Pin connector. I think you should check for power here, just to be sure you're not missing power somewhere or a fuse is blown. Trying to rule out all possibilities here. Some of these pins need to be checked with the key in the "on" position. Pin 16 on the small Data Link Connector is 12v power as well. Pin 4 is ground on that connector too, since you were able to pull a code out of the ECM, that tells us the ECM is awake, so I think you should try verifying battery power at a few locations.
I put up another test as well. (4th diagram) It may set off the alarm, I'm not sure, but if it does, I guess you can unhook the battery to turn it off. The trigger ATA is to disable the Anti-theft and Alarm.
I'm not sure this will work considering the new key is not programmed to the vehicle. But I'm just trying to come up with anything to try before you have a mobile tech or have to tow it somewhere.

If the ATA test worked, then it's just fob holding it back, because the vehicle needs the infrared and the radio frequency from the fob. Its two signals from it. I think if you get the new fob and the other unit it should start, I think you're just missing the signal from that worn-out key, with the worn-out antenna. Reflashes don't lose their programming, if that was the case then every time a battery was changed out of any car it would revert back to its original programming which is now gone. When a reflash is done it overwrites the original programming, I've done a million ECM reflashes. Been through recalls for ECM programming issues and had to do tons of them every day at dealerships.

Okay, with this many codes, there has to be a communications issue on the CAN bus network. There's too many modules unable to talk to each other, I looked up the code B1040 and there is a TSB about moisture intrusion into the CANbus circuits,
Are there any bulk connectors you can take apart with the key off, and start checking connections for moisture or any green corrosion. This thing definitely has wiring issues. Or the underside of fuse/relay panels, look for any green corroded connections, relays, module connectors and pins. There's way too many codes for this to be a simple key fob fault,
The Engine control module looks like it has four connectors A, B, C, D. The D connector has 24 pins. There's 2 wires, Pins 11 and 12. 11 is green/white stripe and 12 is just green. These two wires are the CANbus High and Low circuits. You need to see if you have any voltage on these circuits, I use an Oscilloscope to check CANbus networks, but a multimeter will have to do. The relay module is located right near the ECM, check the relays too for corrosion. Also, the fuse panel in orange, there are too many issues going on here. You have codes for everything, and there's no way all those components failed at the same time. So, there must be a bulk connector or wires that have been chewed through. Something to tie this all together. Did you unplug the ECM connector to check for issues? Just make sure the key is always off. If you can back probe those two wires, I mentioned with it plugged in and Key On, you should have at least a Bias voltage of 2.5 volts. The multimeter will average out the two signals to 2.5 volts. You took pictures of all the codes, so you can also try erasing them all, and see what comes back right away, those will be hard faults happening right now.