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Control Module - Infra-red lock

Tiny
ROCBAR
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 MERCEDES BENZ E320
  • 3.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 201,000 MILES
I acquired this car from a family member who gave me a little history of the car before he deceased and here it is:
The car got flooded sometimes ago, eventually the control module for the infra-red lock which located in the foot well of the
passenger side corroded which cause the battery to go dead if the car was parked for more than 5 days.
His auto technician removed the control module (which is no longer made by the OEM). He made some changes in the ECU so the
immobilizer would not work (basically removing the security system) and the infra-red entry remote fob no longer needed.
The car only uses an ignition key for entry and starting the car. The car was driving with no problems.
After the family member deceased, the car was parked in the garage for almost a year. The Battery was completely dead, so
I replace it by installing a new battery. The car will crank but will not start. I replace the fuel pump and filter and got a
reading of 58 PSI on the fuel rail. There was no 5-volt ref from any of the sensors. I tried spraying curb fuel into the
intake mod and the engine only made an attempt to start and then die.
What I think is happening is the previous changes made to override the security system got lost when the battery drained from sitting
for all those months and the ECU got reset to the OEM default settings or configuration and now it is looking for the control module
infra-red lock unit. Just for weeding out any issue with the ECU, I send it out to have it checked and it was returned stating the ECU
is working as expected and for me to check for other non-working modules. Based on the VIN, I have checked a Mercedes Benz parts listing
to locate the parts number for the infra-red lock control mod and it seems as if the same parts work for cars from 1997 - 2000 models.
Since the OEM no longer make the control module I am thinking to acquire one from a junk yard. I want to know control mod is a plug and play unit?
And if not, what needs to be done to it. I also want to know what did the auto tech did to override the security settings in the ECU?
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Tuesday, November 2nd, 2021 AT 6:04 PM

49 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

If the vehicle tried to start when you used starting fluid, the engine isn't getting fuel. I understand that fuel pressure is within the manufacturer's specs, but that doesn't mean it's getting into the engine. If I recall, the module you refer to shuts fuel down in the event of theft.

Do me a favor. First, simply test to see if there is an injector pulse when cranking the engine. Here is a link that explains how to test: Also note: There will be a red wire with a blue tracer that should have power when the key is in the run position. This wire is spliced near the injector harness and sends power to each injector. Check this as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

If that shows no pulse, I need you to perform a can-bus scan. CAN stands for controller area network. Basically, the different modules and computers are all tied together via a few wires. This will identify diagnostic trouble codes regardless of the module storing them. Here is a quick video showing it being done:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Try these two things and let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, November 3rd, 2021 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
AL514
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Just wanted to add if you don't have your 5-volt reference back, you'll have a no start situation. A shorted sensor will pull down the 5-volt reference circuit with any sensors that it shares. That must be tracked down before you'll get any correct ECM activity.
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Wednesday, November 3rd, 2021 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
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Hi Joe, thanks for your recommendations I certainly will give them a try and let you know the outcome. However, before carrying out your recommendations which I think are good pointers, I first want to make sure the security infra-red locking system and the DAS is in good working order; the reason why I am thinking along this way is because the car was working prior to sitting in the garage for all most a year with a dead battery. The infra-red remote entry fob batteries were also drained, although the previous owner did not use it since his auto technician had remove the infra-red anti-theft lock control module due to failer. I got a lock smith to check and to reprogram the car security system, but he told me he was unable to get communication to the ECM with his scan tool. This is the reason why I sent the ECM out to have it checked and I was told it is in good working order. I am also thinking if any previous settings made to the ECM via a diagnostic tool by the auto tech may have got reset from the battery being dead; and now the system may have reverted to the OEM setting and is looking for the infra-red anti-theft lock control module which is missing. The car system probably thinking someone is trying to seal it and shut the fuel to the injectors down. I would like to first replace the missing infra-red lock control module with one from the junk yard from the same car or from a 1998 - 1999 model. Again, I would like to know more about a replacement on the infra-red lock control module and if there are any special procedures needed to get it working; or weather the control module is a plug and play device.
I like your idea of doing a CAN scan, but I don't have professional diagnostic scan tool. Can you recommend one of those tools which cost less than $400.00 for the DIY person and capable of doing a CAN scan on my 1997 MB project car? I look forward to hear from you soon. Many thanks.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 7:03 AM
Tiny
AL514
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Do you have the 5-volt reference circuit back? The car won't start if its missing, and when you crank the engine over does the check engine light come on? It should during cranking. If it doesn't the ECM is not awake. The clue here is your missing that 5 volts. Without it the ECM can't read any sensors. Crank signal, cam signal etc. Wont fire any injectors
you're probably missing power to the ECM, after sitting so long, little animals love chewing threw wires and making a home.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 8:28 AM
Tiny
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Yes, I did get the check engine light during cranking. The last time when I check at the airflow sensor, I got 0.05 volts basically nothing. I am currently removing the steering column to replace steering tilt motor, the height adjustment sensor which not working and column boot.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 9:23 AM
Tiny
AL514
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Okay, so you've got an ECM that's powering up and is alive, but if you're still missing the Reference voltage there's two possibilities, either a critter chewed threw a wire, or you have another sensor that is shorted out and pulling the 5 volts to ground. You can check that by unplugging sensors and monitoring the 5 volts until it returns. Unfortunately, in our wiring diagrams on Mitchell there is nothing labelled on the ECM diagram. But it looks like there's a sensor on the gas pedal (Pedal Value Sensor), it's a 6-wire sensor and it should have two 5-volt reference wires on it. Plus, two grounds and two signal wires. But those 5 volts is critical for starting. It's hard to tell how many this vehicle has and if they are shared internally in the ECM due to these diagrams. These two wires highlighted below go to 12v fuses, but the MAF may also have a 5-volt Ref im sure because it has an Intake Air Temp sensor too it looks like. That Camshaft Hall-Effect Sensor is powered up from the same fuse #3 which is why its highlighted as well.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
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Can the Drive Activation System (DAS) cause those sensors via the ECM to not output the 5v ref? I am absolutely sure no critter would be able to access the home garage because the house cat will not allow it.
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Friday, November 5th, 2021 AT 11:41 AM
Tiny
AL514
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I don't believe so, but it does disable all fuel injection for the security system. Usually if the transmission is awake there is a 5-volt reference, unless this Drive Authorization System shuts down part of the transmission. In Mitchell it does say that the DAS and ECM are married together and can't be switched out. DAS also includes your Infrared system. So, you're probably correct, in that you're dealing with a security system issue. These cars are pretty complicated, even back in 1997. There are 20 modules in this model, which is amazing for how old it is.
Are you able to pull any codes or have communication with a scan tool to this thing? I think swapping out modules is going to lead you to more issues, if the car has communication, a technician with the correct scan tool could probably get into the ECM and reprogram the security system. If you don't have a scan tool, you can check for communication by looking for a voltage signal on one of the CAN bus lines. That would tell you if the ECM is awake. CAN bus averages 2.5 volts, CAN bus high goes to 3.5volts and CAN low goes to about 1.5 volts when there's communications. So, with a multimeter it would average 2.5volts if there's data packets being transferred.
The third diagram is all CAN High and Low wires (Highlighted). Those are the High-Speed Network circuits, if the ECM is awake, you'll have a voltage signal on these wires.
But honestly i think you're going to need a technician that has a scan tool that can reprogram the security system. I have no idea how the previous tech was able to bypass the system, there must be a trick to it, but Mitchell doesn't give a whole lot of information on these different systems.
There are some mobile techs that will come to where the car is, if you have that in your area. But as you can see in the last diagram as an example, there's nothing labelled on the diagrams for the ECM. Did anything from those previous videos help out?
As for your scan tool question, the Autel MX808 is under $400 from JBtools.com but it doesn't do security system reprogramming.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy
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Saturday, November 6th, 2021 AT 11:00 AM
Tiny
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Hi Al514,

This info you provided is a lot more along the path I needed for the support, and I felt the car security is what I think is causing the problem. Yes, I do agree the injectors are deactivated and they are not firing up. You also made a good point in regards to the "transmission is awake and should have a 5-volt reference", that is correct because when the ignition is in position one and the brake pedal is press, I can shift the gear selector. And when cranking I got 12-volts at the fuel pump. What I will be doing in the next few days is to order a few things: one of them is MX808 scanner, a new transponder for the ignition key since 1/3 of the silver ring on it got peeled off which can cause poor frequency from the remote key fob. The ignition key transponder connects to the DAS and also the Anti-theft infra-red lock control module. I will then do a CAN scan to see what will shows up and take things from there on. I will also try a AAA lock smith who has the ability to check or reprogram the security system if needed. If you have any other info to share, please feel free to do so and I will return in a couple of weeks or 10 days from now with my findings.
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Saturday, November 6th, 2021 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
AL514
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I will add any additional info I come across. I do some more research on how the previous tech may have bypassed that security system, because that's really hard to do, especially when there's multiple modules that are involved. What's getting me is that the Infrared module is on the CAN network and the DAS and ECM, it looks like would be looking for data from that module to start the vehicle. So, whatever he did is tricky, unless he was able to just go in with a scan tool and there was an option to disable it. I'm guessing that's what he did. Because you can't just disable CAN networks and expect things to work. But keep in touch and we will too.
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Sunday, November 7th, 2021 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
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I did understand the previous tech had a lot of experience with MB's. I feel that's exactly what he did, he had tricks and he knew how to by-pass or disable the remote section of security system within the ECM by using his expensive scan tool. He totally removed the anti-theft infra-red lock control model (which MB doesn't make anymore) from the car and the car could start and operated with a regular ignition key, but the alarm system was still active when the car goes to sleep. However, I am thinking along the line since the car was sitting so long with a dead battery those tricky changes, he made may have got erase from the ECM leaving the ECM in its factory default configuration state and now it is looking for the anti-theft infra-red lock control module. For me trying to start the car the DAS is telling the ECM I am trying to steal the car and the ECM disabled the injectors. I would love to know the option the previous tech uses.
Yes, I will certainly keep in touch.
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Sunday, November 7th, 2021 AT 4:59 PM
Tiny
AL514
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So, the good thing is, if you do buy the MX808 it will communicate with every module in the car, it will do a full system scan, I just did one tonight with it, so you may be able to at least tell if you have communication with the ECM and other modules by trying to look at live data on any one particular module. If you get a no communication code with a certain module, you'll know it's down and/or the ECM is looking for it, the scan tool does different things depending on the vehicle and what's available. But for the money it's a great scan tool. I was surprised how low it was on that website. I haven't had the chance to mess with it too much yet so I'm not sure on all of its special functions, there is a lot though. It will code fuel injectors, bleed ABS modules, etc.
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Sunday, November 7th, 2021 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
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Hello AL514,

I am back. Yes, it's been a while. The car is still sitting in my garage which still crank, but no start. I got my new MX808 scanner. First, the scanner could not retrieve the VIN and I had to manually typed it into the scanner. I then ran a complete CAN scan, but it did not complete the entire process. It stops on the first fault: ME2-SFI - Motor Electronics 2. I then drill down to see more details and I got a P1570 stored code with the note - Start enable of Drive Authorization System (Diagnostic Tool/FBS) has not been transmitted. Is that mean the DAS is defected or something else causing the fault?
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Saturday, December 11th, 2021 AT 10:11 AM
Tiny
AL514
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Hello, yes it has been a while, hope all is well, besides the car obviously. But yes, you are correct, this is the DAS not communicating and/or receiving a signal from the transponder. So, the key fob. Interestingly enough, the top fix for this is a new key fob, but your situation is a bit different because you're actually missing the module. The 2nd diagram is what they would want you to check on that module, ie the Terminating Resistor which would read about 120 ohms with it unplugged and about 60 with it plugged in. Every CANbus system has 2 terminating resistors in it. One at both ends of the CAN network, and measuring resistance with the 2 resistors in the circuit (two 120ohm resistors), overall, you would have 60 ohms on the circuit. I'm just going through our info from previously to catch up here. It's odd the scan tool wouldn't auto ID the car. I wonder if the Infrared module is a Gateway for the CAN bus. So, are you still trying to bypass this thing or get a new one?

I just was thinking, since this module is missing, did you take anything out of the car, any other modules or anything that he may have installed, Because the CANbus definitely needs the two terminating resistors, and if that module had one of the two, there would be no communications, which is partially what you have now, guess I'm thinking out loud here. But I wondered if he put the missing resistor in somewhere to make up for the missing one.
Do you still have no 5-volt ref?
One other thing, with that scan tool, when you start, you can select a vehicle make, and then it also says OBD2 on the same screen, have you tried going into OBD2 side of things and see if you can get any data from that end, sometimes when I have an issue with going into the manufacture side I go into the Global OBD2 side, it's not as Indepth, but you can get different information that way.

Is this the module he took out?
One more question, sorry about this, but I'm looking up different info here, does your key have a lock/unlock button on it? Or was that just the FOB?
Also, the ME2-SFI is the engine control module, main ECM.
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Saturday, December 11th, 2021 AT 11:47 AM
Tiny
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The module that was missing looks like the picture below. I got one from eBay, but I understand it has to get program to my car by a locksmith who have the proper tool to do so. I also replace my original transponder with one from the junk yard that has the same part number since a quarter of my original transponder chrome ring was peeled off. I know the chrome ring acts like an antenna. I also install the used Luck Control module as well.
For your questions: "Does your key have a lock/unlock button on it? No.
Or was that just the FOB?" Yes, it's a FOB with one button.
The FOB has two new batteries and when the button is pressed for two seconds, it flashes a red light.
Your question regards to the scan tool: after selecting the make, it gave me two options: (1) 32 pin to scan all modules. (2) 16 pin OBD2 to scans only the ECU. There is a 32-pin port on the left side fuse box under the hood, but I don't have a connector for it; my MX808 did not come with it. Would swapping out the transponder made a difference?
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Sunday, December 12th, 2021 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
AL514
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Yeah, the 32 pin is for a Mercedes scan tool I believe, I haven't seen any of those connectors before. Thats kind of a bummer you can only get onto the OBD2 side. You won't get as much data. I found a few different ways to program keys and fobs for Mercedes. Now I don't know if this is going to work. I've spent hours trying to figure out how to bypass the immobilizer. Nothing yet, are you able to get into the ECM data pins? There are two sets of instructions on for the key and ones for the FOB, I've also been trying to figure out how to hook up to that 38/32 pin connector, but most connector adapters sold, don't connect the correct wiring.
Do you have the owner's manual still? There's supposed to be some instructions in there for new keys and fobs. I was just reading about another tech that got this same could you're getting, and he just replaced the fob batteries, cleared the codes and was good. So that's where we need to get you to. Are you positive the previous tech actually took the Infrared module completely out of the car?
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Sunday, December 12th, 2021 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
AL514
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Hey if you don't mind, can I get the VIN # from you? I want to investigate this some more, but it will be much easier with the VIN. Thanks
One other thing I forgot to mention, with the mx808, did you run all the updates when you first got it? Its easily missed. Mine took over an hour to run all the updates on every make of vehicle, and looking at the wiring diagram, at the 16 Pin connector, one pin goes directly to the TCM (transmission ECM, ) so you should be able to get into that module, definitely not just only the ECM.
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Sunday, December 12th, 2021 AT 2:04 PM
Tiny
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I don't mind sending you the VIN, but I would rather do so privately by email or text.
I know for sure the previous tech did remove the Lock Control module (LCM). The previous deceased owner told me the tech removed the LCM because it got corroded from water damage some time ago, but he's not sure what the tech did to get the car running. The plug for the LCM is just there hanging.
You got me thinking maybe the previous tech were able to access the system via the 38/32 pin port under the hood. I still have the owner's manual. I will take a look into it regarding the FOB reprogramming. My FOB only has one big button. When pressing for 2 seconds, a little red-light flashed once.
My OBD2 only has three wires coming out of the back. I am not sure which pin goes to the TCM.
I also did some searching online regarding the P1570 code and some folks said a bad crank shaft sensor can trigger the P1570 code. Although I don't think the crank shaft sensor is the problem, but I may still need to check it; do you know the ohm reading to expect from a good working sensor?
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Monday, December 13th, 2021 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
AL514
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Are you able to get into live data with the scan tool, and/or does this model have a tachometer? If it has a tachometer, while you're cranking the engine over the tachometer should jump a little. I know most things are not functioning right now, I don't think this is a crank sensor issue, the ECM is being inhibited because of the missing DAS, that's what it does. That also explains why you can't read any other modules; the ECM is probably the gateway for communications.

This is right from All Data: "Note: The drive authorization system inhibits the engine management system. Although the starter rotates, the engine does not start."

But here's the crankshaft position sensor specs, the wiring coloring is not correct on this info, the green wire is the 5-volt ref, and the green/white is the ground for the sensor. But again, if you're missing the 5-volt ref, the ECM is not awake.
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Monday, December 13th, 2021 AT 12:10 PM
Tiny
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Hi AL514,

I had to step away to attend to other things. Anyway, I do agree with you about the CKP is not the problem, but I am still going to take it out, test it and clean it for name sake. You ask if I can get live data : Yes I can via the OBD2 port. The CAN network protocol will not connect when selected, but the ISO 14230 protocol give me some other data. I ordered a Benz 38 pin connector and should get it this weekend so I can check all the other modules. I also was able to talk with a Benz Tech online and he told me that my IR FOB may need to be replaced, but I am dough full since I don't have a second FOB to try. See the attached file he sent me. One thing I forgot to mention is the red and green LED lights attached to the rear view mirror don't lite up at all. I check all fuses and found no problem. I am going to pull the rear view out and check it this weekend.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2021 AT 7:42 PM

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