Multiple issues after battery cables were hooked up incorrectly

Ariana,

You are not having good luck. I'm still waiting for a response related to the vacuum hose, so hang in there.

If the terminals were switched, it could have damaged several different things. So, I don't think your work is the cause. Are you sure the transmission fluid is full? If it is low, it can cause a delayed shift (bang) or not shift at all.

Let me know about that. Also, let me know if you have inspected all fuses and what codes you are getting.

Joe

Tell me about it. You know about Murphy’s law? Well, Murphy is my best friend apparently lol. And yeah, I checked every single fuse, and they were all fine. And I bought a good code reader that told me the transmission temperature, so I filled it at the right temperature until it started coming back out and then I stopped and plugged it up. I don’t have a dipstick, so I had to go underneath and use a hand pump to fill it. I had to return the code reader because it was too expensive, but I am going to borrow one today and I will let you know what the codes are.

Honestly, Murphy is not playing fair!! LOL When you checked fuses, did you confirm there is power to and from them?

And don't you love having to check transmission fluid like that? Ugh!!! Most people won't do it or can't. I wanted to say something to you and forgot. If the gauges are going crazy, this wasn't caused by you. Something electrical was likely damaged by reversing the polarity at the battery. The transmission line may have damaged the transmission but shouldn't have done anything to cause the gauges to act as you described. I suspect a module was damaged when it was shorted. As a result, multiple issues are showing up now.

If you have a list of the codes, let me know what they are so I can check things out on my end.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

I got out my fluke multimeter and tested each fuse and each one beeped so they’re all working. I checked both the ones under the steering wheel and the ones under the hood. When I hooked the code reader up the first few times after purchasing it, there was no trouble codes but as soon as the guy switched the cables multiple ones popped up. I remember seeing a PCM code and I remember seeing p1568 which meant unable to hold speed. Then multiple ones that said out of self-test range which I’m still not sure what that means. The guy that’s going to let me borrow his code reader changed it to tomorrow, but I’ll post them as soon as I can get them. But if the transmission was damaged, wouldn’t I not be able to change gears at all? Because when the car is on but not started it engages in every year but when it’s on and started the gear shift moves freely but none of the gears will engage or they engage late and sometimes accompanied by a really hard kickback. I was told by AAMCO that the technician switching the cables may have burnt out a solenoid or something. My torque converter, solenoids, fluid, filter and pan gasket were all new when this happened so in no way should they be messing up like this. It was a tow company that did it and I’m pretty sure they’re messing with me because I’ve been trying for two days to get a tow to a shop for a diagnosis. So, i don’t know what to do. I cannot tow it myself or I would have by now and it seems I’ve been blackballed by the tow company. I don't know how to get my car fixed now other than figure it out with the help of your website and try to do it myself. This website has for sure been a saving grace.

Ariana,

I'm glad to be here to help. It is a little more difficult when the vehicle isn't in front of me, but usually, we get things going again.

I have to ask a question. When you say key on engine off the shifter engages but won't when the engine is running, I'm really confused. The transmission can't engage with the engine off. Do you mean the shift lever feels different?

Joe

I mean like how you move a car when it’s dead. Key on brake pedal depressed shift to neutral. It’ll move like that, and you can hear it when it engages in each gear and if you take your foot off the brake when in neutral the car moves but when it’s on and started the gear shift moves but you don’t hear anything and if you take your foot off the brake while in drive the car doesn’t move at all or it does but it jerks backwards first. At the very beginning right after this incident happened it would only move in reverse then it wouldn’t move at all and when I tried it stalled out.

I don't know what is engaging honestly and I don’t know what it’s called either but whatever it is you can hear it engage when you change gears, lol.

Ariana, when you shift through the gears either with the key on only or with it running, does the gear selector indicate the correct gear? There is a transmission range sensor that determines what gear the vehicle should be in. That could be bad. Note that the range sensor signals the powertrain control module for gear selection. From there, the PCM communicates with the transmission control modules, sensors, and so on.

Let me know if you noticed any changes with the indicator. Also, I attached the wiring schematic below for your review. I highlighted all wires from the range sensor for you.

Let me know your thoughts or if you have other questions. If the gear indicator isn't working or is off, I suspect the range sensor was damaged. If it is working properly, I suspect the PCM was damaged.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Note: I had to cut the schematic in half to make it readable for you. I did overlap them so you can follow from one to the next.

The gear shift shows the correct gear while it’s on without running and when it’s running. It just won’t actually change when it’s running. It has no problem changing gears when the key is in without the engine running because I can throw it in neutral no problem. When it’s running, I can’t throw it in anything about the gear shift moves and so does the needle telling me which gear I’m in.

Ariana, I have a feeling the PCM was damaged. Crossing the cables wouldn't have hurt the mechanical components in the transmission. When you had the leak, how low did the fluid get in the transmission? Also, have you ever been able to get the scanner to recheck codes?

Let me know.

Joe

It didn’t get that low and I never started it while it was low. He brought the scanner, but it wasn’t the right kind. For some reason it wasn’t compatible with my car. If my PCM was damaged would my car still be able to start?

Based on what was damaged internally, yes it could still start.

Do me a favor. If you can, make a video of it running, when you shift into gear, and the gear position selection. I want to see exactly how it is acting.

If you can't, no problem. By the way, what kind of scanner did the person bring? The vehicle has a straightforward OBD2 system,

Let me know.

Joe

PS: By the way, it appears your vacuum hose has everyone confused on the Ford Explorer forum. LOL I've reached out to as many people as I can, and no one knows.

Last time I started it and tried to shift there was a really loud bang. I'm worried that if I do it again it’s going to mess something up. Is that a possibility? Like can I mess it up by shifting one more time? Then again, the shop that looks at it will have to do that anyway, right? And I don't know it just said auto scanner something. It didn’t even say OBD II anywhere.

And if there’s a short somewhere, will it hurt the car if I charge the battery while it’s in the vehicle? I don’t know if I’ll have to charge it, but probably so because I haven’t started it lately.

Hi,

If you are worried about charging it in the vehicle, just disconnect the negative battery terminal when charging.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-charge-your-car-battery

Let me know.

Joe

Okay, will do and did you also see what I replied about starting it and changing gears? Do you think it’ll mess anything up or will it be okay?

Ariana,

I wish I could give you a concrete answer, but it's hard to do because I don't know where the short is or what made the loud bang. However, it's the only way to check things. If there is damage done, I don't feel starting and trying to shift will further damage it.

I don't want anything to happen if there is a short, so when the battery is charged and you reconnect it, pay attention if there are any major sparks when the cable touches the terminal. If everything is turned off, you may see a slight spark, but nothing major. Also, if there is a major draw on the battery after being connected, the battery cables can get warm or hot. If that happens, disconnect the battery.

Just be careful, aware, and let me know what happens or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

Quick question. I of course wouldn’t want to do this without asking permission first, but would it be okay if I screenshot what you said about the likelihood of my PCM being damaged to my case manager for my claim? Since the tow company is denying my claim, AAA is trying to help mediate and any mechanic saying anything about my PCM will likely help me get them to fix the damage they caused. Of course, I would only want them to fix it if the fault is theirs in the first place, but I am hopeful that any information/expertise on the matter will help me show that I am not the one the fault belongs to.

Ariana,

Absolutely you can do that but thank you for asking. What kind of friend would I be if I said no? LOL

Let me know if there is anything I can help you with.

Take care,

Joe

I am going to get that video for you, but before I can start it, I am trying to figure out how to put the oil pump gear back in. The o ring was leaking so I fixed it but now it won’t go back in all the way. I’ve read so many different things about losing the shaft and stuff like that but I’m pretty sure mine is still there in the oil pump. So once I get this back in, I will start it and send you the video of how it is when it shifts.

Ariana,

No problem whatsoever. What is happening with the oil pump? There is a shaft that has to be aligned for it to seat fully.

Let me know.

Joe

I asked about it in a new question. But how do I align it?

Hang in there. I will find the new post.

Joe

Okay. so, what’s happening is the delay in shifting is because for some reason my trans is having trouble building pressure but once it does it engages, and everything is fine. If I go to switch gears again the pressure reads at 0 when my car should be moving, then all of a sudden it has pressure and boom the car moves. It sounds like a seal or something inside the transmission is worn but they are all brand new because my torque converter was rebuilt right before I did my engine rebuild. None of this happened until the guy switched the cables. So, I’m not sure what to do. This is what I got on the reader.

And on another reader, it said something about can’t control speed. Also, I know my overdrive doesn’t work.

Hi,

The P1000 simply indicates symptom readiness test isn't complete. Basically, it tells you the system has not completed testing all components in preparation for an emissions inspection.

The P1780 is a different issue. That is specific to the transmission. When it won't move or the pressure is at 0 PSI, pay attention to the gear indicator light. See if it stays on or if it turns off.

Next, I want you to check fuse 26 in the central junction box (under the dash). In addition to checking the fuse, confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

I attached a pic below of the CJB and highlighted the fuse to check. It's possible that it failed when the battery issue happened.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below.

I was finally able to take it to ford to get the diagnosis for my claim. They said when he switched the cables, he messed up the PCM. Unbelievable. All that work for it to be ruined in two seconds. At least now I have proof. Now the hard part is going to be proving he was the one who switched the cables because he is saying he didn’t.

Hi,

If you have that in writing, it should help. Was he paid for his service? Is anything listed on the receipt as to what was done?

Joe

I called AAA and they sent a technician so there’s a service number but none of that does me any good because he said he didn’t switch the cables.

Contact AAA and tell them you have been a good customer and expect them to follow through with this. You were there and saw him do it. How can he prove he didn't? Since you are their customer, they really need to take your side on this.

Your thoughts?

Joe

AAA has no responsibility. They told me the tow company they dispatched to jump my car is an independent contractor. Since the tow company denied my claim because their driver denied doing it, AAA wanted me to pay out or pocket to get two repair estimates to try to help me mediate with the tow company. If we can’t reach a mediation, my only option is to take the tow company to small claims court. Even though I didn’t call the tow company, I called AAA who I’ve paid a lot of money to for a lot of years for “peace of mind” in case I need roadside assistance, it doesn’t matter. AAA is pretty much saying “we got u into this mess, but it’s your problem now. We can try to help but if it doesn’t work out you on your own.” Absolutely ridiculous and I will never renew my membership with them again.

Ariana,

Let them try to help. If that isn't successful, you may be better off just getting a remanufactured one online. They make them plug and play based on the information you provide. I needed one a few years back and it worked perfectly.

Let me know how things turn out for you or if there is anything I can do to help.

Take care,

Joe

They pretty much said I was lying. That the Ford dealership was wrong and that what’s going on with my car couldn’t be because of a bad PCM. Obviously, they just don’t want to accept responsibility for their mess up. That’s crazy. So, I’m taking the tow company to court because I have now spent a lot more money on my car than I should’ve had to. They are going to pay me back for it. Anyways, I got a new PCM. It’s been updated and programmed to my VIN. How do I install it? What is plug and play?

Hi Ariana,

Plug and play is figurative language indicating you install it and it's ready to work. In other words, it requires nothing more than plugging it in.

I attached the directions below for the removal and installation of the PCM. When you connect it, make sure the battery is disconnected. Once the new PCM is installed and connected, then you can reconnect the battery.

Let me know if this helps. Also, I'm sorry to hear you are going through all of this. It seems a person's character is no longer important to some.

Let me know if this helps.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.

In the picture I saw VIN E. Mine is vin K. Does that matter or is it the same procedure either way?

You have very good eyes, Ariana. I wish you worked for me. LOL As far as the code, the K indicates it is a flex-fuel vehicle. The procedure is the same, but I'm glad you checked.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

The place I bought it from said something aboutPATS. What is that and how do I know my car has it?

Also, thank you and if you ever need an extra hand on a car in LA county then you can hit me up, lol.

LA county. Is that like CA? If so, I'm on the opposite side of the country. LOL But thanks just the same.

As far as PATS, that stands for passive anti-theft system. Ford started using them in 1996, but not all vehicles have it. Does your vehicle have a factory anti-theft system?

Let me know.

Joe

Yes, born and raised in a beach town near LA county, lol. And the new PCM is in along with the new oil pump drive. It turns out I do have to reprogram the keys. I have a friend that let me borrow his key writing computer but i don’t know how to use it. Any chance you can give me directions for the reprogramming procedure?