Multiple issues after battery cables were hooked up incorrectly

Hi,

If you look at the attachment below, it provides the programming procedure. This will erase the presently programmed keys. Please read through the description note.

Beach town? Must be nice. You are living my dream. Today, (and I'm not making this up) we had sun, rain, hail, snow, and then back to rain. Ugh!

Take care,

Joe

Thank you, I’m going to try it right now. I’ll let you know how it goes. And I guess the grass is always greener on the other side because I’d love to see snow or rain right now, but I’ve only seen snow like twice, lol. I’ve never been where it’s actually snowing, I’ve just seen snow on the ground, lol.

It’s the same procedure even though mine is a vin k and the picture says vin e, right? Sorry I know i asked this already about one of your previous posts, but I just want to make sure that the same rule applies.

Hi,

I just double-checked to make sure there were no differences, and they are the same. The VIN code K indicates it is a flex-fuel vehicle. Other than that, there are no differences.

Take care of yourself and let me know if I can help.

Joe

I’m still having the same problem with my car. I was told it’s because u have to clear out the old transmission shift points. How do I do that? My new PCM is programmed and everything and my fluid is full but I’m still having what I found out is called neutral dropout. So that’s why I was told to have the PCM learn new shift points.

Hi,

The relearn procedure is done while driving and really isn't something you program. Take a look below at the attached pic. I highlighted the area to read. I circled a word choice error on the manual's behalf. LOL

Sorry, in addition to being a mechanic for 30 years, I'm also a schoolteacher. I bet you have never heard of such a thing.

Let me know your thoughts.

Take care,

Joe

See pic below.

Here is a video of what’s happening.

Ariana,

That seems like a line pressure-related issue. I now understand what you meant by a neutral drop. LOL

I feel bad suggesting this, but we need to determine if the line pressure is low in the transmission. That is what it is acting like.

There are three pressure control (PC) solenoids located in the solenoid body assembly used to control line pressure, band and clutch application pressure within the transmission. If one was damaged and is causing low pressure, the engine needs to rev before enough pressure is produced to engage the gear.

I feel so bad recommending another test. But I attached how to test line pressure. Ariana, let me know your thoughts. If I didn't live 3,000 miles away, I would come and help. This has been a total nightmare for you.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe


See pics below.

Don’t feel bad, please. Of all the people I’ve asked including Ford, Aamco transmissions, and mobile mechanics you are the very first person to have any sort of idea of what’s going on. Everyone else says, “I’ve never seen that before. I don’t know what to tell you. That’s a hard one.” So, no matter how many tests I have to perform, please don’t feel bad. Thank you so much! I’ll do it in the daylight tomorrow and I’ll let you know. Also, my transmission fluid is light pink, and I read that that means coolant is getting in there but I only touched an external cooler so I don’t know how that could happen. It was sort of bubbly so maybe I overfilled it. What do you think? Tomorrow I can send a picture of what the fluid looks like.

If I drive my car a few miles up the road, will it damage anything?

Hi,

I do feel bad. You shouldn't be going through all of this. You did so much good work and now because of someone's ignorance, you are dealing with many new issues. It angers me. LOL As far as driving, if it is low pressure like I am thinking, as long as you are not really hard on it, you should be okay. But please be careful because neither of us is sure if it will totally fail.

As far as the transmission fluid color, does it look like the pic below? Is there any evidence of fluid in the coolant reservoir or radiator?

Let me know.

Joe

What does the tool look like that I need for the tap? And no coolant is fine. I changed the cooler but it’s external, so I don’t think I could’ve gotten coolant in there. I’ll send a pic of the fluid. One sec.

I guess it only turned pink when the car is on because I just tried to take a little bit out and its normal red.

Hi,

That's good news. Coolant will usually take out bearings and other things in the transmission.

You asked about a tool, a tap. Are you rethreading something? I attached a general picture of a tap below. Let me know if that is what you needed.

I will be up a little longer. It's nearly midnight here and 6 AM comes fast. LOL, I will check to see if you replied before heading out.

Take care,

Joe

No, I meant for the line pressure test it says something about a line pressure tap and pressure control tap.

LOL, sorry.

When they say tap, it just indicates a place to attach the gauge. It's been a while, but if I remember correctly, the gauge should simply screw into the tap.

Let me know if that helps. You need to take a break. You're working too hard.

Okay, I have to get some sleep. Take care and let me know if there is anything I can do to help you.

Take your time and you'll be fine. You are excellent at working on vehicles.

Joe

Thank you, I appreciate that. I can’t take a break though because it’s my only car. Uber is expensive. I’m persistent, but mostly out of necessity. It’s also my failsafe in case I lose my place to stay. My family has lived in that car with two dogs so if all else fails I know I can stay in my car and no matter how many times I want to give up, I just can’t. Plus, my car is all I have left of my mom. That’s why I’ve worked so hard on keeping it. She committed suicide a couple of years ago and i was on my own after that and moved to a friend's house so that car is the only place, I can go that she has actually been. So, I have to do it because no one else is going to do it for me. I learned that a long time ago.

Since my PCM was fried, should I check the sensors first because the picture you sent said bad sensors can cause the problem. If he fried the PCM, there could be more that he fried too, right?

Today I took it back to the transmission shop that rebuilt my torque converter and they told me i need to replace my valve body. Is that right? I want to make sure because if I change that then it voids my warranty through them.

With your work ethic, you should never need to worry about where you will stay. If the economy is that tough where you are, there are many other areas that would love to have someone like you.

Anyway, did they justify why the valve body needs to be replaced? If it is a pressure issue like I think it is, I would have them check the pressure control solenoids unless they have already done that.

Let me know what they told you. Also, if they rebuilt the converter, why would replacing the valve body void their warranty?

Let me know, and don't worry. We'll keep the Explorer going one way or another. And be careful with the Uber thing. I just hope you are in a safe area.

Take care,

Joe

PS: I am very sorry about your mother and what you've had to experience. Hang in there my friend. You're not alone.

Thank you. Reading your replies always makes me feel better lol. They said that it can’t be a line pressure issue because if it was there wouldn’t be a hard kickback when I try to change gears. And because any repair inside of the transmission voids the warranty. It doesn’t make sense though because they just replaced my solenoids when they did my torque converter. And before that would’ve blown and before my PCM would blow wouldn’t my maxi fuse have blown? Isn’t that what it’s for?

Hi,

Anything is possible. One would hope the fuse would fail first, but it doesn't always happen. I'm not sure what they mean by a hard kickback when placing it in gear. The idea that you have to rev the engine tells me either it's low on fluid (which I know it's not) or the pressure is low. I have seen in the past where there is a delayed engagement due to valve body issues. But in your video, it doesn't engage until you rev the engine.

Just for curiosity, and I hope you don't mind me asking how much do they want for the repairs? Removing the valve body isn't a very difficult job. It can be a little tricky, but I know you could do it.

Let me know. I hope you had a good day today. Finally, it was 80 here and sunny!!! I love warm weather. LOL

By the way, I meant what I said. You're not alone. If I can help, I will.

Take care of yourself,

Joe

Sorry, I deleted this one because I sent the same thing twice. Ugh!!!

Like when your transmission is going out and it shifts hard, and you hear something banging. He said something about there being too much pressure. They didn’t give me a repair estimate, they just told me what needed to be done. Which is why I’m hesitant to do it because any repair done in the transmission by anyone but them will void the warranty. Although, I’m thinking AAA frying something may have already voided it. But yes, i have to rev it for it to engage but sometimes when it does you can hear it bang when it finally engages. That’s what he meant by kickback. I wish it was 80 here lol that would be hot but more tolerable than it is here. It’s about close to 90. I’m from the beach, but I’ve been in LA county for like 5 years now and somehow am still not accustomed to the heat. It gets over 100 often. I swear I am meant for Alaska.
And thank you again.

Hi,

I'll trade you. In the winter, it gets below 0 here. Ugh! I'm not familiar with LA county, but envy you for living at the beach. That has always been a dream of mine. Never did I want to live in PA my entire life. I do have a nephew that lives in Orange County, but I have no idea how far that is from you.

As far as the transmission, what they told you makes no sense to me. So, I am going to ask another tech for his ideas on the topic. I'm not going to tell him anything more than it needs to be revved to engage. Let's see what he says.

If by chance you don't hear back from me within a day or two, please get back in touch with me.

Take care of yourself and stay safe.

Joe

Ariana,

You don't have to tell me this if you don't want. I spoke with the site owner who is in Orange County and asked if he knew someone he could trust in LA county. He asked where in LA county, and I had no idea.

I totally understand if you are uncomfortable providing that information. Like me, he suspects low line pressure resulting from a failing pressure regulating solenoid. But the shop is telling you the opposite. I can't be sure why they are saying that to you, but I don't want you taken advantage of. If he knows someone near you, maybe they could help.

Let me know. And again, please don't feel obligated to provide that info. I truly don't want you to feel uncomfortable.

I hope you are well.

Take care,

Joe

Orange County is where I’m from! Lol Currently I live in Covina. Not far from Orange County at all. Wow you’re awesome! Lol thank you so much for helping me!

And I remember they said something about a solenoid but that it’s too hard to change a solenoid and I’d be better off changing the valve body or something like that. He said what’s going on with my car is the same thing that happens when you drive stick but shift too soon or something like that. Had something to do with a clutch.

Ariana, I sent the info to him. I can't tell if he is now offline. LOL I will let you know what he tells me. Also, I told you you're not alone. If I can help, I will. And you are very welcome. I really want to get you through this.

Take care. It's midnight here. I have to be at school to teach in 6.5 hours. Ugh! What happened to the weekend?

Take care and be safe.

Joe

The shop that honed my block also rebuilt my heads. My car has barely been driven since the rebuild. Am I wrong or should I not be hearing lifter tick and valves clacking? Can you hear it? There’s another noise almost like I’m low on oil but I’m not. Also, I never did figure out that hose at the end of the video lol. The machine shop told me to just use thicker oil, but I shouldn’t have to if I paid them a bunch of money to rebuild my heads right?

Also, these are the codes popping up now. I will also show the message from the place that sold me the PCM. I accidentally clicked the same picture a couple of times, but it won’t let me erase it, lol, sorry.

Ariana,

I read through the codes. I'm not seeing anything specific to the transmission or valve body. Ugh!!! These guys are driving me crazy. LOL

I am waiting for a reply from Ken. As soon as he gets in touch, I will let you know.

Take care and I hope all is well.

Joe

I fixed it! Well, I didn’t. Although I don’t understand because the problem was the fluid. I have the Ford attachment for the transmission fill or drain plug and I pumped fluid until it came back out and waited for it to be a steady stream but apparently it was low. They said something about having to put it up on a lift and putting it in drive then park so that it fills the torque converter also. Weird. But it runs now with no issues. Well, no transmission related issues. Now I’m having issues with shuddering when I accelerate but it’s probably because of my rear CV joint boot. I don’t know why but it’s spitting grease all over the place. Not sure if I need a new one. If it’s not one thing it’s the other. Also, a little confused because on two different Autel scanners I’m getting different results. The pics I sent are from one and another one has no codes pop up. Not sure what to think about that.

Hi,

OMG!!! That's great news. You are very persistent, and I give you credit for that. Since the fluid was low, that was causing low line pressure not high. UGH!!! I would love to give some people a piece of my mind, but I will refrain. LOL

If you have a CV joint boot that is leaking, eventually it will get enough dirt in it to damage it and need replacement. It won't happen overnight, so you know where to come if you need help. I'll be here.

Ariana, take good care of yourself. And as always, please let us know if we can help in any way. You're a great mechanic!!!

Joe

Thank you, I appreciate all of your help! Finally, I have my car back. I don’t even know what to do now. All I know is I want to drive lol. Just have to fix the CV joint and drop my trans to change the rear main seal because it’s leaking but after that I’m good to go! I must’ve installed the rear main wrong which sucks but seems so minor compared to everything else I’ve had to do for this car. I’m not even worried about how hard it is or anything because it’ll be a breeze compared to the hoops I’ve had to jump through once and back again to get this thing running, lol.

Spoke too soon. Turned my car on this morning to find the exact same problem. I just don’t get it. The transmission shop said from his test drive the transmission is working exactly how it’s supposed to. Obviously, it isn’t. I tried to tell him that the problem will likely come back because considering when the problem first started it has nothing to do with fluid. He just ushered me off as if I was bothering him with my questions. I was right though.

Ariana,

What was done to make it work? Was it only the fluid? Have you rechecked it? Also, just to reconfirm, this is a 2wd vehicle, correct? Is the repeated failure the same as before?

Joe

Yes, just the fluid. And yeah, same issue and yes 2wd. 2003 Ford Explorer XLT 4.0 v6 SOHC 5r55 5 speed automatic rear wheel drive to be exact, lol.

Could this be happening if I had connected up the external trans oil cooler lines backwards?

Was it the original cooler? Is it an auxiliary cooler or is it integral with the radiator? If you switched them and it was an original part, it would have backflushed dirt that was built up and causing a flow restriction. It's just a theory.

Let me know.

Joe

I’m not sure if it was the original and yes, it’s an auxiliary cooler that doesn’t go through the radiator.